Project: 1985 GS550ES

RE: From Lord1234: "PS since I haven't said it yet...that is a BEAUTIFUL bike."

RE: From JTsGS650: "And I concur with lord, nice looking bike."


Well, actually, once you get a bit closer and under more revealing lighting, the bike does show quite a bit of wear. A lot of rust speckle on the pipes, corrosion/rust on the fasteners and quite a bit of dirt/dust/long dead bugs/cobwebs in general, especially on the hard to reach surfaces. Also, the petcock side cover has been stained with gas (that's why the first thing I did was install a new petcock).

As I work on the function, I'll be cleaning up the form. Eventually I'd like to get this bike to look as shiny and new as some of the others I've seen on here on TheGSResources.

all the above complaints are moot...you at least have all the side covers, they seem in good shape, the gas tank isn't dented, everyone's pipes have some corrosion...so yea...good looking bike...don't put it down so much or you'll hurt its feelings.

OnlineConversion.com

Speaking of perfection (and laziness), here's a very cool site.

http://www.onlineconversion.com/

Thanks to Steve's post I realized that I just needed to convert foot pounds specs to inch pounds to match my torque wrench. Here's the tool for that job:

http://www.onlineconversion.com/torque.htm

RE: From Lord1234: "PS since I haven't said it yet...that is a BEAUTIFUL bike."

RE: From JTsGS650: "And I concur with lord, nice looking bike."


Well, actually, once you get a bit closer and under more revealing lighting, the bike does show quite a bit of wear. A lot of rust speckle on the pipes, corrosion/rust on the fasteners and quite a bit of dirt/dust/long dead bugs/cobwebs in general, especially on the hard to reach surfaces. Also, the petcock side cover has been stained with gas (that's why the first thing I did was install a new petcock).

As I work on the function, I'll be cleaning up the form. Eventually I'd like to get this bike to look as shiny and new as some of the others I've seen on here on TheGSResources.

GS carbs are easy...its just that the screws tend to get stuck in them:-P...the hardest part of carbs is as I listed

a) screws
b) removing them from the boots.
c) making sure to carefully lift the float bowls so as not to rip the gaskets...

I'll definitely heed your advice on that task. Thanks!

Just what kind of torque wrench do you have, and what fasteners are you going to torque to 650 ft-lbs? :shock:

Think about it, if you weigh 220 pounds and use a 3-foot cheater bar, you would be applying 660 ft-lbs. 8-[ Even the head bolts on a Cummins engine in a Peterbilt only get torqued to about 200, so the 650 really boggles (what's left of) my mind.

Maybe your wrench is calibrated in INCH-pounds? If so, 650 would be just over 50 FT-lbs, putting the 11-15 spec right in the bottom of the accurate range for the wrench.

Either a 3/8" drive ft-lb wrench or a 1/4" drive in-lb wrench should handle that nicely, if you want to be super-accurate. Most of us probably just wipe the crud away from the hole, wipe off the (old) gasket and snug it in. I usually go less than 1/8 turn after the gasket touches and have never had a problem (yet).


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Doh! My torque wrench is calibrated in INCH-pounds, not FOOT-pounds. Again, Doh! Guess it's been to long since I've used the thing. I actually just picked it up from my Grandmothers house where it's sat unused for the last 20 years.

I also know that the boxes that the plugs come in recommed torque via the 1/8 or 1/2 turn method, which I have used in the past. I'm just trying to do things as close to spec as possible (according to the manual).

Thanks very much for getting my brain to jog on this!

GS carbs are easy...its just that the screws tend to get stuck in them:-P...the hardest part of carbs is as I listed

a) screws
b) removing them from the boots.
c) making sure to carefully lift the float bowls so as not to rip the gaskets...

From the description of the problem it sounds like you have clogged idle circuits in the carbs. You will need to get those carbs cleaned out which means the carbs have to come off the bike. Not a small task, but if you can get the tank off you should be able to manage it.

I agree that the carbs need to be cleaned as that is the likely source of the main issue. I'm sure I can do the job, it's just been a while. Last (and only other) time I've pulled and cleaned carbs was in 1987 on my first bike, a 1973 Honda CB350. I'm thinkin' the carbs on the GS will be MUCH more challenging. :-D

[Steve]

Just what kind of torque wrench do you have, and what fasteners are you going to torque to 650 ft-lbs? :shock:

Think about it, if you weigh 220 pounds and use a 3-foot cheater bar, you would be applying 660 ft-lbs. 8-[ Even the head bolts on a Cummins engine in a Peterbilt only get torqued to about 200, so the 650 really boggles (what's left of) my mind.

Maybe your wrench is calibrated in INCH-pounds? If so, 650 would be just over 50 FT-lbs, putting the 11-15 spec right in the bottom of the accurate range for the wrench.

Either a 3/8" drive ft-lb wrench or a 1/4" drive in-lb wrench should handle that nicely, if you want to be super-accurate. Most of us probably just wipe the crud away from the hole, wipe off the (old) gasket and snug it in. I usually go less than 1/8 turn after the gasket touches and have never had a problem (yet).


.

That is my general understanding as well. However, my question is more about whether or not there is a general or specific need for a greater or lesser gap (spark), or if the gap should be adjusted after observing plug condition over time, etc.

Once the plugs are gapped and firing well just leave 'em alone.

As far as the plug gaskets don't worry about em'.

And as far as using a tourque wrench to install the plugs, that's not something I do. I just finger tighten them and then go another 1/8 to 1/4 turn with a ratchet. But on axle nuts or brake calipers, I'll use a torque wrench.

And I concur with lord, nice looking bike.

[DimitriT]

From the description of the problem it sounds like you have clogged idle circuits in the carbs. You will need to get those carbs cleaned out which means the carbs have to come off the bike. Not a small task, but if you can get the tank off you should be able to manage it.

not really...if you are just trying to get the bike working .26 is a perfect#. As far as your idle issue, my guess is that you need to clean and sync your carbs. This involves pulling the carbs(not the easiest) and then following the VERY GOOD directions on this site for how to clean them.

As I found out recently, I suck at directions. You will need the following tools

a) Phillips head screwdriver
b) PB Blaster
c) Impact Driver(the kind you hit with a hammer and it slowly dislodges stuck screws)

you *might* need one of the following
a) Float Bowl Gasket
b) not much else.

to sync your carbs, you can either a) bench sync or b) get a sync tool. Both of these are nearly equally good for the bike. I had a similar issue that my (older)bike(GS400) used to stall out when warmed up without me maintaining high revs and choke...cleaning/syncing fixed it right up.

Hope that helps

Thanks for the validation of the .026 gap. Anybody have any ideas on removing/replacing spark plugs and the effect on the plug gasket? I'm thinking that if the gasket it truly important then removing/reinstalling the plug will negate the effectiveness of the gasket... Is this correct or am I being too much of a perfectionist on the point?

Also, how important is using a torque wrench for installing the plugs? The manual specs 11 to 14.8 foot pounds, but my torque wrench ranges from 0-650 in 25 pound increments, which is a) not in the accurate range of the wrench to being with and b) the wrench increments are too large to be useful. I've looked for low range torque wrenches and they seem to be elusive. So, how important is the need for exact toque on the plugs and where can I get a properly ranged tool if I need it?

PS: Carb cleanup will follow testing after plugs are changed.

the latter is definitely the answer....seriously .26 shoudl be great...now get on to cleaning/syncing those carbs...

PS since I haven't said it yet...that is a BEAUTIFUL bike

Well my feeling is that if you gap them bigger, then theoretically you get a bigger spark. Bigger spark=more complete combustion. I could be completely off base so take it with a grain of salt...8-[

That is my general understanding as well. However, my question is more about whether or not there is a general or specific need for a greater or lesser gap (spark), or if the gap should be adjusted after observing plug condition over time, etc.

not really...if you are just trying to get the bike working .26 is a perfect#. As far as your idle issue, my guess is that you need to clean and sync your carbs. This involves pulling the carbs(not the easiest) and then following the VERY GOOD directions on this site for how to clean them.

As I found out recently, I suck at directions. You will need the following tools

a) Phillips head screwdriver
b) PB Blaster
c) Impact Driver(the kind you hit with a hammer and it slowly dislodges stuck screws)

you *might* need one of the following
a) Float Bowl Gasket
b) not much else.

to sync your carbs, you can either a) bench sync or b) get a sync tool. Both of these are nearly equally good for the bike. I had a similar issue that my (older)bike(GS400) used to stall out when warmed up without me maintaining high revs and choke...cleaning/syncing fixed it right up.

Hope that helps

Well my feeling is that if you gap them bigger, then theoretically you get a bigger spark. Bigger spark=more complete combustion. I could be completely off base so take it with a grain of salt...8-[