voltage loss data

[BassCliff]

Hey howdy hey!

Let me first say hello to everyone, as this is my first post. Been a long time reader of these forums, some of you may know of me, as Kcwiro often refers to me in his posts as "his friend".

Hi Mr. Tmwnni,

Since you've introduced yourself in the middle of someone else's thread, I'm just going to give you a link to the "official" unofficial mega-welcome! CLICK HERE.

Thanks for joining us. We look forward to adding your consciousness to the collective. Resistance is futile! :shock:

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Kcwiro]

Hi Mr. Tmwnni,

Since you've introduced yourself in the middle of someone else's thread, I'm just going to give you a link to the "official" unofficial mega-welcome! CLICK HERE.

Thanks for joining us. We look forward to adding your consciousness to the collective. Resistance is futile! :shock:

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

I swear I did not warn him about that super long happy welcome BassCliff 8-[ Though I did cheat and linked straight to all the helpful nice info you wrote =) ... nice addition to my favorites =)

[focus frenzy]

FocusFrenzy, thanks for the quick info! I had suspected as much for the coils.

Now let me see if i'm reading you right on the rest of this, i'll fully explain my current setup:

87 to the coils
87a nothing...yet
86 to (both) orange/white wires
85 to ground
30 to + solo termnial

So if i'm doing JUST the coil mod, this is it right?

If i'm understanding the headlight part correctly, i think your saying that i need to change my 86 terminal so instead of energizing the relay via the two orange/white killswitch wires, the relay is energized via the starter button (Green/Yellow wire)? If this is the case, then how does the kill switch factor in? Or maybe i'm supposed to be using a second relay?????

Also, the 87a wire seems to have voltage, is it a good idea to plug it into the ground side of the headlight? Or are you running it into a second relay that's already there for that brightness mod?

Thanks in advance for clarification on this, i know we're all really beating the dead horse in this thread! I just can't quite figure out it how all the controls and everything still work as soon as that headlight/starter button thing is added...

you got it right for the coil relay. the 87A will have power as long as the key is off, that is how the relay works and nothing goes to it unless you want to just put a un-used connector over it to cover it just let it be.

now for the headlight relay diagram I promised your friend.
well I after trying several times I now remember why I am a mechanic and not a artist.

I suck at drawing anything other than stick figures and a two year old could do that better.

factor in I don't have the nifty software that has the little electrical icons and it got real ugly fast.

I do have a good camera and can and will map out a relay mod that will kill a couple birds with just one relay.

AKA: the ignition bypass mod.

stock power goes from the battery through the master fuse up to the ignition switch then comes back to the fuse box before making a return trip back to the dimmer switch then the headlight.

with the ignition (switch) bypass mod you use a relay to send power dirrectly through the fuses and up to where they go. the old power wire from the ignition switch that went to the fuses will then control the relay.

my 83 1100E is other than the horn relay, stock and I can do it on it and take lots of pictures to document.

been meaning to do it.

I should be able to work in some splicing time this coming week to make it happen.

[focus frenzy]

FocusFrenzy, thanks for the quick info! I had suspected as much for the coils.

Now let me see if i'm reading you right on the rest of this, i'll fully explain my current setup:

87 to the coils
87a nothing...yet
86 to (both) orange/white wires
85 to ground
30 to + solo termnial

So if i'm doing JUST the coil mod, this is it right?

If i'm understanding the headlight part correctly, i think your saying that i need to change my 86 terminal so instead of energizing the relay via the two orange/white killswitch wires, the relay is energized via the starter button (Green/Yellow wire)? If this is the case, then how does the kill switch factor in? Or maybe i'm supposed to be using a second relay?????

Also, the 87a wire seems to have voltage, is it a good idea to plug it into the ground side of the headlight? Or are you running it into a second relay that's already there for that brightness mod?

Thanks in advance for clarification on this, i know we're all really beating the dead horse in this thread! I just can't quite figure out it how all the controls and everything still work as soon as that headlight/starter button thing is added...

you do have a inline fuse on that battery wire to terminal 30 right?
10 amp fuse.

[Kcwiro]

For those of use who need a flashy picture.. AKA ME

Here you guys go this is a good demo of a five prong relay in action:

http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/relay.swf

After Tmwnni and myself had some alcohol tonight and found this diagram we had a Epiphany that this mod is exactly as it is... you use a FOUR prong relay to do your coil mod, and if you want to do a headlight cutoff mod you have to use a seperate FIVE prong relay to work that guy...you cannot do all via one FIVE PRONG relay which had us completely stumped....

Check out the link above that demo's very well the operation of the relay and shouild clear up anyone else who maybe puzzled with this ... even after some drinks... WE GET IT NOW \\/

[tkent02]

Great supply of relays...
Been using these automotive relays for years, the best place to get them is the local pic n pul type wrecking yard. Go straight to the Volvo section, they use Hella or Bosche relays which are very high quality and the best part is Volvo owners don't go to wrecking yards much, things like relays are usually still there. BMWs, VWs, etc use the same relays but they are all gone from them much quicker than the Volvos.

[focus frenzy]

Great supply of relays...
Been using these automotive relays for years, the best place to get them is the local pic n pul type wrecking yard. Go straight to the Volvo section, they use Hella relays which are very high quality and the best part is Volvo owners don't go to wrecking yards much, things like relays are usually still there. BMWs, VWs, etc use the same relays but they are all gone from them much quicker than the Volvos.

if they are so reliable why would owners of those cars need to get more, and used ones at that? LOL

I like using tyco relays as they are reliable and they are completely sealed so water cant possibly get in them. the fog light relay you get at auto parts places with the mounting tabs on them are questionable and are not sealed.

[tkent02]

if they are so reliable why would owners of those cars need to get more, and used ones at that? LOL

I've never had one fail, even after decades using them for all kinds of projects.
And they are free.
I still have a bin of them from when I parted out a few Opel GTs.
My point was that stuff from Volvos is rarely molested, as hot rod kids don't play there.

I like using tyco relays as they are reliable and they are completely sealed so water cant possibly get in them. the fog light relay you get at auto parts places with the mounting tabs on them are questionable and are not sealed.

The Chinee junk from Autozone or whatever is very poor.
Got pics of these Tyco relays? Where do you get them?
Probably not free but that's OK.

[Kcwiro]

http://catalog.tycoelectronics.com/T...VFMA-15F41-S01

couple posts back in this guy but here you go... Tmwnni and just bought ours from NAPA .. but they are pricey...

[Kcwiro]

Great Results

Okie dokie I have my post mod before and after data...

Before mod I was losing a womping 3 volts at my coil ... OUCH! Surprised mine was working as good as it was...

..After Mod ....drum roll....

0.1v loss at the coils

Notes about results:

First my coils on my 80 GS750E had their positives soddered on with some coating over it. Tmwnni and I cut that off with a box knife and soddered my new wire directly to it. No issues really...cept what to cover the contacts with I'll silicon it or something later for elements protection. Since my bike cannot be started at this time 'I am waiting on some ordered parts' I don't forsee any problems with the new connections in the slightest.

Second I went on a grouding frenzy cleaning up every one I could find and I added grounds going from my starter silinode to R/R, R/R to frame ground, R/R to bolt on engine, since we had so many connectors left over since we bought a big quanity might as well use them... and too many grounds can never hurt =) .... adding the extra ground also dropped the post voltage loss down another .2v I was at .3v before deciding to do more grounds

...this was a great mod... I wiwll revise my voltage once I get my new battery on bike.. just to be sure everything is accurate to the 'T'

Woot! This was a excelent writeup I am so happy I found it... thanks boys!

[tkent02]

My voltage went from 10.6 to about 12.0 at the coils.
Don't know if it will run any better but it can't hurt.
Think I'll do it to the 750/850 tomorrow.

[Tmwnni]

My result were about what sounds to be textbook for this mod. Went from the 2.0v loss at the coils to .15v loss or so. Also, added some extra grounds and planning on doing the copper heatsink thing for the R/R.

This was a great read, and a fun easy project (once i got my head around things anyway) thanks for everyones help and ideas!

[greg78gs750]

wow this thread is f-r-i-c-k-i-n awesommmme.......thanks guys...

[andrewclaycomb]

I'm going out to the garage to do this mod now, and to change my handlebars out to daytona bars.

Wish me luck.

[psyguy]

like i'm not CONFUSED enough...

sooooo, after a long study of the subject... 8-[

in my mind i think i figured how to use a (4 pin?) relay for the coil mod
i can also use the same supply wire to run it to the headlight relay, right?

now, being "down under", my bike has a functional headlight switch (on/off) and the headlight is NOT permanently on

now, what do i need to do when installing headlight relay to still be able to use both the on/off switch AND the low/high beam switch?
two separate headlight relays?

thanks [-o<