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    #76
    Originally posted by doctorgonzo View Post
    The old ones are probably useable, but as much work/money as I'm throwing at this thing another $200.00 to have brand new high quality valves throughout is hard to pass up.
    Who makes valves for Vesrah, and what makes you think they are of good quality?
    I thought they made brake pads and leaky gaskets?


    Life is too short to ride an L.

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      #77
      Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
      Who makes valves for Vesrah, and what makes you think they are of good quality?
      I thought they made brake pads and leaky gaskets?
      Vesrah makes them in Japan. They quit making the GS1000/GS1100 valves several years ago and got rid of the dies or whatever. They are good steel, have a good reputation from everything I've read.

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        #78
        Here is a quick check for valve guides.

        Remove the stem seal and plug the hole with your finger. Insert the valve from the chamber side and then pull it back. The valve should retract back about the same distance. It should make a nice pop sound when you pull it out.
        1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
        1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

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          #79
          Great thread.

          Printed and into the GS notebook.

          Thanks !

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            #80
            Originally posted by duaneage View Post
            Here is a quick check for valve guides.

            Remove the stem seal and plug the hole with your finger. Insert the valve from the chamber side and then pull it back. The valve should retract back about the same distance. It should make a nice pop sound when you pull it out.
            Good one! I will do that tonight. Hoping they don't need replacement, but that's a good test to be sure.

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              #81
              A fresh question...

              The bottom case, should I flush it somehow while I've got the cylinders and the head off? Drop the oil pan and make sure no sediment or nasty bits are in there? Flush kerosene or some other solvent through it?

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                #82
                I wouldn't flush with anything; residule solvent will remain in the engine. Pulling off the sump cover is a good idea, sludge tends to accumulate there and you can clean the oil filter screen at the same time. If you really want to be proactive you could pull the clutch and stator covers and clean out any sludge you see there as well.

                Good luck and keep up with good work.
                Ed

                To measure is to know.

                Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                Comment


                  #83
                  Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
                  Who makes valves for Vesrah, and what makes you think they are of good quality?
                  I thought they made brake pads and leaky gaskets?
                  There are still original Suzuki valves out there. I bought new intakes and exhausts on EBAY from MRSSUPERDEALS for $7.50 each still in original packaging. With Suzuki logo cast on head of valve.

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                    #84
                    Originally posted by Suzuki_Don View Post
                    There are still original Suzuki valves out there. I bought new intakes and exhausts on EBAY from MRSSUPERDEALS for $7.50 each still in original packaging. With Suzuki logo cast on head of valve.
                    I'll search for that seller. I have been watching ebay for two monrths now and have seen exactly one exhaust valve pop up, and they wanted as much as buying it from Bike Bandit ($45).

                    Edit:
                    Found their ebay store, they don't list any GS1100/GS1000 valves, but gonna send them an email, they might have rings as well.
                    Last edited by Guest; 01-09-2009, 10:43 AM.

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                      #85
                      And another question:

                      I've seen much talk about the 750 oil pump increasing volume. I've run across a 1983 750 oil pump (from which I could remove the gear) for basically nothing ($10.00), is this the gear people are talking about?




                      Looks like all the 83 750s are 16 valve, so this isn't it, have to be an earlier year.
                      Last edited by Guest; 01-09-2009, 01:07 PM.

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                        #86
                        There was a thread in the Performance Mods forum recently discussing the need for more oil pressure/volume in 8V engines; bottom line is that extra oil is not needed and adding it anyway opens up the possibility for oil leaks from the head and/or base gaskets since oil flows upstairs via the cylinder/head studs. I say forget it.
                        Ed

                        To measure is to know.

                        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                        Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                        Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                        KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                        Comment


                          #87
                          Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                          There was a thread in the Performance Mods forum recently discussing the need for more oil pressure/volume in 8V engines; bottom line is that extra oil is not needed and adding it anyway opens up the possibility for oil leaks from the head and/or base gaskets since oil flows upstairs via the cylinder/head studs. I say forget it.
                          Good info, I had seen recent discussions in here on it, and figured I'd check into it.

                          Tomorrow the frame goes to my girfriend's brother's garage to start mocking up the frame bracing so he can get it cut out and get ready to weld.

                          I found two powder coaters who will do the frame for the $150.00 range, probably gonna throw the swingarm, all the motor mounts, and the center stand in there which will bump that a little.

                          I checked with local machine shops and for only a little more I can get Ray to bore my head to fit the GS1100 pistons ("$50 a hole" which cracked me up), so waiting on piston arrival to finalize that with Ray and get it shipped off.

                          I'll know for sure on Tuesday on the Vesrah valve set from APE. They wanted to confirm one more time the other customer wasn't gonna take them. If he does, gonna go with what I have.

                          Still wating on seats and retainers from Flat Out, retainers were backordered, supposed to have shipped yesterday. I already have HD springs from APE.

                          Sunday most likely I'm going to take the pan off the motor to get all the sludge and nasties out of the screen .

                          Comment


                            #88
                            Why are you installing HD valve springs? Are you going with high lift cams?

                            If you are staying with the stock cams, you should stay with the stock valve springs - get new ones if you want to freshen things up. HD valve springs will have a greater spring force which will cause additional wear of the valve, valve seats, cams, and valve shims. For best durability you want the weakest valve springs you can get away with.

                            If you are going with new cams, and want to sell the old retainers and springs, please let me know. I could use a set for an engine I'm putting together.
                            Ed

                            To measure is to know.

                            Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                            Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                            Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                            KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                            Comment


                              #89
                              Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                              Why are you installing HD valve springs? Are you going with high lift cams?

                              If you are staying with the stock cams, you should stay with the stock valve springs - get new ones if you want to freshen things up. HD valve springs will have a greater spring force which will cause additional wear of the valve, valve seats, cams, and valve shims. For best durability you want the weakest valve springs you can get away with.

                              If you are going with new cams, and want to sell the old retainers and springs, please let me know. I could use a set for an engine I'm putting together.
                              At the time I ordered them I thought I had a line on a used set of Web Cams, but it fell through, good info on they might be too much for stock cams. Well guess what, I STILL have a set of springs and retainers I can let you have because the original 1000 head had a set, the new 1100 head had a set, and I have the HD set. Of the old ones, neither set seems "bad", of course I don't have a way to measure their compression.

                              Comment


                                #90
                                Frame bracing day1

                                Day one of frame bracing, it's going to take a day two, especially because the battery box has to be relocated back about 2 inches.

                                The diagram I am following used tubing to tie the headstock to the frame, but wouldn't work with the "G" tank fitment. I had to use a gusset instead. Even with a gusset had to curve the gusset inward and beat in sections of the underside of the tank, but finally made it fit. Second gusset below, repeated on the other side.




                                Cross member added just above the motor mounts.





                                Here she sits after day one of bracing, with my girlfriend in the background watching her brother work on her car.

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