Rectifier/Regulator replacement list

[baz666]

Thanks for all the great info. Really useful stuff. I never really understood much about stators, R/Rs and their workings but I'm certainly getting an education now. I guess that's one good thing when you're trying to get a bike running properly.
thanks again,
baz

[baz666]

Hi Matchless,
I know I'm really dragging this stuff out but I found a Hayabusa R/R at a good price in my area. It's from the 99 to 07 models and has 3 black wires, 1 white/black striped wire and 1 red wire, from what I'm told.
Do you think that'll work on my 83 GS750ESD?
thanks for all your help,
baz

[Matchless]

That one should work. No problem.

[salty_monk]

A friend asked me to fit one of these mosfet RR's, he got one from an 02 R1..

Yamaha YZF-R1 02 Shindengen FH-001 12V 35 Amps / 200V rating 14.1V - 14.9V

It has 6 connectors (unlike all the others I've seen before of this type). The extra connector is in the middle of the the +/- (or at least what is the +/- on the others I've fitted).

Can anyone tell me what the 6th connection is for?

Labelled "5" on this pic:

1,2,3 are Stator - 4 is +ve, 6 is -ve I believe



Dan

[salty_monk]

Anything I can find on the web just tells me not to worry about that middle pin... just leave it disconnected. Still be interested to know what it's for though... must be for something!

[Matchless]

Dan,
I suspect its similar to the FH009-1 where that pin is a sense wire.

The beauty of the FET type sense wire is that if it is left disconnected it actually lowers the charging output instead of letting it run at full output as the SCR type does. This is a clever safety feature.

[salty_monk]

Does that mean that this RR will never output it's full potential?

If so I should probably connect it up or tell the guy to send it back & get one of the 5 pin ones...

It's important because the guy is upgrading to an FET mainly to try to gain extra capacity for his electronic vest..... (He also wants me to put an HID headlight in it too as they only drain 30w & he figures that will give him most of the extra output he needs for his vest).

Dan

[Matchless]

Dan,
No, it should work properly and regulate whatever the alternator sends to it. It just needs a sense wire connection to do that.

Not connecting the sense wire will activate that feature, which safeguards the battery from overcharging as I understand it.

You can happily install it, just hook up the sense wire as well.

[salty_monk]

He has bought the Eastern Beaver connectors & only has 5 connectors for them.... I think I'll try it against a FH010 that I have myself to see what it does on the same bike. If the output is the same I'll just leave well alone, if not I'll tell him to swap it over.

By the way - Can these Mosfet regulators better handle less than stock load?

For example if I eliminate the switching off one leg feature on my bike but at some stage forget to turn the light on will the FET cope better or is it still a big problem?

Dan

[Matchless]

By the way - Can these Mosfet regulators better handle less than stock load?

For example if I eliminate the switching off one leg feature on my bike but at some stage forget to turn the light on will the FET cope better or is it still a big problem?

Dan,
The main improvement on the new FET types is the higher current ratings. When talking about the FET types we are looking at the lowest at 35A and the highest at 50A, compared to the SCR type which was 35A highest current rating and I suspect that the GS OEM one was maybe 20A and then helped some by switching out a phase with the lights off.

I think you should be able to use that 35A FET one with the lights off as well. Theoretically the 50A type should be virtually indestructable when used on our bikes.

By the way we have light switches on our bikes here and cannot imagine having a bike without one and we also ride with lights on.

[salty_monk]

Thanks! So spare load will be "eat up" by the RR & not affect the stator. That's the answer I was looking for.

I have a 50A one to go on my bike, the 35A FH001 is one a friend picked up & is going to use on his bike.

[posplayr]

Dan,
The main improvement on the new FET types is the higher current ratings. When talking about the FET types we are looking at the lowest at 35A and the highest at 50A, compared to the SCR type which was 35A highest current rating and I suspect that the GS OEM one was maybe 20A and then helped some by switching out a phase with the lights off.

I think you should be able to use that 35A FET one with the lights off as well. Theoretically the 50A type should be virtually indestructable when used on our bikes.

By the way we have light switches on our bikes here and cannot imagine having a bike without one and we also ride with lights on.

Matchless,
The FET is indistructable because the on resistance and therefore the voltage drop/power across the FET's is very low. Instead it is all shipped back to the stator which gets hotter with a FET based unit (same total power but less drop across the FET R/R.
Jim

[Nessism]

Matchless,
The FET is indistructable because the on resistance and therefore the voltage drop/power across the FET's is very low. Instead it is all shipped back to the stator which gets hotter with a FET based unit (same total power but less drop across the FET R/R.
Jim

I've been struggling to understand how this works. The stator is basically part of a permanent magnet AC generator right? How can power be sent back to this unit? I thought current flow in one direction only?

[posplayr]

I've been struggling to understand how this works. The stator is basically part of a permanent magnet AC generator right? How can power be sent back to this unit? I thought current flow in one direction only?

We covered that here. Just imagine what would happen if you shorted a pair of the windings (at the point they would have gone to the R/R) to each other and drove your bike around at 6000 RPM? How long would the stator last?

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=157589

[Nessism]

We covered that here. Just imagine what would happen if you shorted a pair of the windings (at the point they would have gone to the R/R) to each other and drove your bike around at 6000 RPM? How long would the stator last?

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=157589

The stator is not included in your flow diagram.