Rectifier/Regulator replacement list

[hjacobmiller]

I picked up a good honda shindengen R&R off ebay for ~$40. Much better and cheaper than the new stuff out there IMHO.

There is a place near by that is sort of a salvage yard for bikes and I called them asking about a r/r. He said he doesn't have any GS300s but does have several Suzukis from the 80's that I may be able to grab a good one off of for around $45. Are there any specific Suzuki models that I should be looking for that would have compatible r/rs? There are also a lot of other bikes there so I am thinking about bringing the list from this thread to see if he has any of those models.

Also, what tests can I do to make sure the r/r is good? Just the resistance tests? Are there any more conclusive tests that I could do to make sure I don't buy a non-working one?

[gearhead13]

There is a place near by that is sort of a salvage yard for bikes and I called them asking about a r/r. He said he doesn't have any GS300s but does have several Suzukis from the 80's that I may be able to grab a good one off of for around $45. Are there any specific Suzuki models that I should be looking for that would have compatible r/rs? There are also a lot of other bikes there so I am thinking about bringing the list from this thread to see if he has any of those models.

Also, what tests can I do to make sure the r/r is good? Just the resistance tests? Are there any more conclusive tests that I could do to make sure I don't buy a non-working one?

Well, first make sure he will take it back if it doesn't work. If he doesn't know how to check them himself then I would kinda wonder. Have you read the stator papers and have you been to Basscliffs site for how-tos? There are R&R tests there as well.
When I was looking for an R&R I contacted the local bike salvage place and was told he charges 1/2 of retail for used stuff Friggin ROCKS in his head. Should have told him where to shove his R&R
Haven't been back since.

[hjacobmiller]

Well, first make sure he will take it back if it doesn't work. If he doesn't know how to check them himself then I would kinda wonder. Have you read the stator papers and have you been to Basscliffs site for how-tos? There are R&R tests there as well.
When I was looking for an R&R I contacted the local bike salvage place and was told he charges 1/2 of retail for used stuff Friggin ROCKS in his head. Should have told him where to shove his R&R
Haven't been back since.

No he said he would test it but I wanted to know if there were any tests that I make sure he does or that I could do if he doesn't offer. I'm just skeptical of buying something from ebay because there is no way to test and I don't want to ship things back, I want to get on the road!!!

Does anyone have a working one they want to sell me?

[old_skool]

he charges 1/2 of retail for used stuff Friggin ROCKS in his head. Should have told him where to shove his R&R
Haven't been back since.

One of our MC boneyards charges the same, sometimes he doesn't always know what the retail really is, but for the most part, way too expensive for used rusty parts.

[Normk]

It is generally more reliable to use a test light and 12 volt source to check rectifier diodes. Unless you have a meter which has a diode test function, checking can be hit and miss. Often the meter's applied voltage is lower than the forward bias voltage of the diode so will indicate an open circuit.

I always prefer to test components under actual operating conditions because any other test method assumes a direct relationship which may not be so.

As for the bike wrecker pricing at 1/2 the new price...that's the industry standard. Auto wreckers, bike wreckers, etc. all use this pricing.

The wrecker operator will not necessarily understand how to test all of the bike's components as he will have the knowledge/skill limitations which we all share. While most will attempt to help, it is incombent on the buyer to know what they need and to be able to assess condition.

The wrecker may appreciate a copy of the list in order to assist in helping others. I would in his circumstances.

"Load type" VRR units have two sections: rectifier & regulator.

These are generally tested separately and I think this is dealt with in the Stator Papers link. Don't recall for sure as don't need to use these kinds of references but have seen at least one very good appreciation of the subject on line and think it was this one.

You will need to test diode operation by checking forward and reverse diode action for each diode. As stated earlier a test light is a more reliable indicator than is a multi meter.

The voltage regulator is a more involved test which requires applying a variable voltage to the rectifier stage and monitoring the effect on the output. A temporary test rig can be made using a 12 volt and 6 volt battery although a variable voltage source is a more reliable test base.

It is difficult to beat the use of a known good alternator connected to a known good battery for testing as nothing beats actual conditions.

If you are close to one of the electrical types on this group, maybe you can have someone go with to help testing. Most of the wreckers I've dealt with are eager to learn if one approaches them with respect so you may make some brownie points by showing someone who does not know how to test.

HIH

Norm

There is a place near by that is sort of a salvage yard for bikes and I called them asking about a r/r. He said he doesn't have any GS300s but does have several Suzukis from the 80's that I may be able to grab a good one off of for around $45. Are there any specific Suzuki models that I should be looking for that would have compatible r/rs? There are also a lot of other bikes there so I am thinking about bringing the list from this thread to see if he has any of those models.

Also, what tests can I do to make sure the r/r is good? Just the resistance tests? Are there any more conclusive tests that I could do to make sure I don't buy a non-working one?

[tkent02]

As for the bike wrecker pricing at 1/2 the new price...that's the industry standard. Auto wreckers, bike wreckers, etc. all use this pricing.

Not all of them. Commercial wreckers, yes but the pick n pull type places charge far less. Most bike wreckers are pick n pull type places, you go find and pull what you need, the prices should be lower. Some of them are priced much lower, some are not. Some are rip offs, some are good people.

Rusty old junk shouldn't be half the new price, ever.

[TooManyToys]

.......Rusty old junk shouldn't be half the new price, ever.

I'll try to use that.

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/story_images/1/2401/4861/6002430003_large.jpg

[DannyMotor]

Question/concern.

Page 1. Honda CB250RS, Shindengen SH232-12

Says "regulator" only.

I have one IN MY HAND that says "regulator/rectifier" on it 12V... 6 wire. This one came off a CM400T, however... but it has the same serial number "SH232-12 9.8 12v"

What gives?

[old_skool]

Question/concern.

Page 1. Honda CB250RS, Shindengen SH232-12

Says "regulator" only.

I have one IN MY HAND that says "regulator/rectifier" on it 12V... 6 wire. This one came off a CM400T, however... but it has the same serial number "SH232-12 9.8 12v"

What gives?

The SH232 could come from a lot of sources, but it's only another 18amp, could have also been found on the GS400, Honda CB250/400N Superdream, CM450 or certain CX500's. And if yours states RR, it probably is.

[DannyMotor]

Ok good... its installed and works... so thank god for that.

[Matchless]

Thanks!
I have updated the list with SH232 and SH541 info you provided.

[elevatorman71]

Ok I bought an83 gs750es and it didn't come with a r/r. What you recomend with the Honda r/r's?

[tom203]

Ok I bought an83 gs750es and it didn't come with a r/r. What you recomend with the Honda r/r's?

Take the one off the cx-500, probably a sh-232, my personal favorite! OK, plenty of similar ones on ebay under $20

[elevatorman71]

What about one off of a gl1100 Honda goldwing? I have one.

[tom203]

What about one off of a gl1100 Honda goldwing? I have one.

Very likely and bigger (which some folks here demand)- any numbers, 6 or 8 wires?