Rectifier/Regulator replacement list

[old_skool]

What about one off of a gl1100 Honda goldwing? I have one.

It will work, equal to or slightly better than the oem amperage, larger heat sink area for cooling, should be an eight wire, but will require modification as the mounting holes don't line up on those, might be a sh538

[elevatorman71]

Will the wires go color to color? Mounting isn't a problem just need to make sure the wiring is easy and color for color. Maybe a schematic laying around here or there?

[old_skool]

You'll have the 3 stator wires, white or yellow, 2 grounds(same color), 2 hot(same color) and a seperate color wire for the sense wire, which you can use or leave off, if you want to use it, I hook mine to the lead under the seat going to the tail light, brown oem wire I believe. Post a pic of it when you can, I just wired an 8 wire to the GR650. The mounting holes are spread farther apart on the RR, if you have the material to work with on the RR, you might be able to elongate the holes on the RR, or make new mounting points on the bike.

[elevatorman71]

What is the sense wire for?

[old_skool]

senses voltage drop or increase to help stabalize the amount of charge needed, was originally intended for bikes with an off headlight switch, it would determine the bike didn't need as much voltage.

[DannyMotor]

The one I installed works like a dream.

My lights never dim when I hit the brakes or the RPM's drop to idle, and they never get that annoying "insta-bright" when you get on the gas from a stop.

Very happy with this. My battery also stays at a constant 12.7V after riding. (It's an old battery, but cranks just fine!)

Tip: Change EVERY SINGLE connection between the STATOR / RR / FUSE / SOLENOID / HARNESS and BATTERY. Also, hard-wiring a piggy-back wire is a good idea...

Eyelet from RR mount bolt, to and eyelet on the stator, to an eyelet on the battery... even 1 more eyelet that goes to one of the air-box mounts wouldn't hurt.

[old_skool]

The one I installed works like a dream.

My lights never dim when I hit the brakes or the RPM's drop to idle, and they never get that annoying "insta-bright" when you get on the gas from a stop.

Very happy with this. My battery also stays at a constant 12.7V after riding. (It's an old battery, but cranks just fine!)

Tip: Change EVERY SINGLE connection between the STATOR / RR / FUSE / SOLENOID / HARNESS and BATTERY. Also, hard-wiring a piggy-back wire is a good idea...

Eyelet from RR mount bolt, to and eyelet on the stator, to an eyelet on the battery... even 1 more eyelet that goes to one of the air-box mounts wouldn't hurt.

Agreed, you can't have too many grounds.

[posplayr]

The one I installed works like a dream.

My lights never dim when I hit the brakes or the RPM's drop to idle, and they never get that annoying "insta-bright" when you get on the gas from a stop.

Very happy with this. My battery also stays at a constant 12.7V after riding. (It's an old battery, but cranks just fine!)

Tip: Change EVERY SINGLE connection between the STATOR / RR / FUSE / SOLENOID / HARNESS and BATTERY. Also, hard-wiring a piggy-back wire is a good idea...

Eyelet from RR mount bolt, to and eyelet on the stator, to an eyelet on the battery... even 1 more eyelet that goes to one of the air-box mounts wouldn't hurt.

...........................

Read about GS Charging Health

[koolaid_kid]

You'll have the 3 stator wires, white or yellow, 2 grounds(same color), 2 hot(same color) and a seperate color wire for the sense wire, which you can use or leave off, if you want to use it, I hook mine to the lead under the seat going to the tail light, brown oem wire I believe. Post a pic of it when you can, I just wired an 8 wire to the GR650. The mounting holes are spread farther apart on the RR, if you have the material to work with on the RR, you might be able to elongate the holes on the RR, or make new mounting points on the bike.

The 2 hot wires are red, the 2 ground wires are green, the sense wire is black, and the other 3 go to the stator.
I installed one on my GS, I had to dremel out one of the mounting holes a bit to get it to fit. Not much, perhaps a 1/8" or so. Your mounting bolt/screw lengths will change, and IIRC it will take 2 different lengths.

[KooK]

Awesome information! No longer hitting 19v! :P

[elevatorman71]

Ok figured out that the r/r has 8 wires. 2 red 3 yellow 2 green and a black. Does it matter what way the yellow wires go? I know I need to ground the green wires. But the 2 red wires need to go where? The wiring I originally was supposed to hook it up to only has one red wire in the wiring harness. Thanks for all the help I've gotten so far.

[tom203]

Yellow wires go to stator in any order. You can put the two reds together and connect to red harness wire,or just put one to harness red and run other via inline 15 amp fuse direct to battery positive. make sure greens have good connection to battery negative-either direct or common grounding point. sense wire (that black guy) needs to connect to rear brake switch ( this is switched "on" with key "on")

[posplayr]

Here is a simplified diagram showing the connections for a 6 wire R/R. Just omit the Brown wire for a 5 wire R/R. The R/R has doubled up wires for both (+) and (-) so it is actually an 8 wire as shown.

[spacepirates]

I just tried to buy a FH-011AA off ebay (that model # was clearly in the title) but received a SH650A-12 instead. Any chance that will work?

It has five unmarked leads/wires out.

[barnbiketom]

it may work indeed, but why was it not the one you won? I'd be mad.