Rectifier/Regulator replacement list

**posplayr** · 03-12-2009, 11:43 AM

Huh???

+12 and - 12 ???? or is that GND

**Matchless** · 03-12-2009, 12:28 PM

Originally posted by posplayr

+12 and - 12 ???? or is that GND

Do I have it wrong? Red is positive 12 Volt and green is negative 12 Volt otherwise called ground? We call it "Earth". let me know and I will fix the diagram if it is incorrect.

Thanks.

**rustybronco** · 03-12-2009, 12:44 PM

Originally posted by Matchless

Do I have it wrong? Red is positive 12 Volt and green is negative 12 Volt otherwise called ground? We call it "Earth". let me know and I will fix the diagram if it is incorrect.

Thanks.

-0v or is it +0v? is ground. ground "earth" would be correct.

**posplayr** · 03-12-2009, 01:41 PM

-12v basics

Voltage is all relative, so to a certain extent it is dependent on convention.

The Motorcycle frame is usually called "ground" or equivalent to "earth" or "reference" if you will.

If you take two batteries before connecting them to the motorcycle they are both "floating" . If you put a volt meter lead on the frame and another on either lead of the battery you will probably see zero volts. Don't read too much into this becuase there is nothing to reference the voltages (except the meter you are using to measure the voltage diff) and so it is a pretty meaningless measurement.

Generally we connect batteries for "negative ground" by convention, then you connect battery #1 negative side to the frame and the + side becomes +12V with respect to the frame. But because everybody knows that frame is ground reference zero, the plus side just becomes +12V.

Now we could also hook up the other battery to the motorcycle. If you also connect it's negative lead to the frame then you have close to twice the capacity of +12V sources. However you could connect the positive side to ground (i.e. the frame). Then the negative leg of the #2 battery would become -12V.

I should mention to NOT connect the two batteries negative to positive and positive to negatives unless you want a fire ; You will be shorting a big 24V battery.

That is because a volt meter between +12V and -12V will read +24V; it is all relative. Because you chose frame as 0V, the two battery legs although separated by 24V become +12 and - 12V.

EDIT: The fact of the matter is that because the motorcycle runs on rubber tires, the whole electrical system is infact "floating" and so there is no good reference relative to true earth ground (like in dirt ground). Like I said it is all relative and for teh motorcycle everything is referenced to Frame (by convention).

See attached figure.

Pos

**Matchless** · 03-12-2009, 03:34 PM

Thanks, I have fixed the diagram.

Actually meant to label it 12 volt + and - and then a moment of Altzheimers light must have slipped in!

**dennis roy** · 03-17-2009, 06:49 AM

OK...so now that my eyes are spinning in opposite directions and I feel like a 3 year old in a genetics class.....what would be the best choice for my '82 850glz? LOL I ask this because when I put my bike away last year I noticed it wasn't charging as well as it should.

**Billy Ricks** · 03-17-2009, 06:53 AM

Originally posted by dennis roy

OK...so now that my eyes are spinning in opposite directions and I feel like a 3 year old in a genetics class.....what would be the best choice for my '82 850glz? LOL I ask this because when I put my bike away last year I noticed it wasn't charging as well as it should.

Depends on whether or not you want to shop Ebay for yourself or not. If you want one right away get one from Duanage. If you have a little time keep an eye on Ebay. I've picked up two from late model CBR1000RRs for about $30.

**rustybronco** · 03-17-2009, 10:02 AM

Originally posted by dennis roy

.what would be the best choice for my '82 850glz?...

I'll give my opinion.

the time tested Honda would be the choice for those with stock charging system needs, or with an unknown stator condition.

at this time I believe the FH-series R/R (FET) should be used with a known good stator with no flaking/bad coating, or a properly rewound/new stator. I plan on testing a FH010BA with a 27 year old stock stator on my '82 gs to see if I can stress the stator (make it fry). then combine it with a rewound stator sometime in the future on my '80 gs.

the FH-series, in my opinion, would make a nice choice for those seeking the maximum power out of the stock charging system when used with a proper stator, "for those that need it".

***edited*** I can't speak for ALL the cbr1000rr reg's, yet...

**Billy Ricks** · 03-17-2009, 10:06 AM

Originally posted by rustybronco

I can't speak for the cbr1000rr reg's, yet...

With it being the shunt type it should be fine. I have an extra if anyone wants to run some tests. As long as I get it back I don't mind sending it out.

**rustybronco** · 03-17-2009, 10:24 AM

Originally posted by Billy Ricks

With it being the shunt type it should be fine. I have an extra if anyone wants to run some tests. As long as I get it back I don't mind sending it out.

some cbr1000rrs are shunt type some are not. (I don't know how much they power they dissipate is my reason)
*** edited*** most of the sh-series should work fine, as is the FH-series when used as described.

Originally posted by matchless

Honda CBR1000RR 06-07 Shindengen SH678B 12V 35 Amp rating, 15.1 V (shunt)
Honda CBR1000RR 08 Shindengen FH008EB 12V 40 Amp rating (fet)
Honda CBR1000RR 08 Shindengen FH014AA 12V 50 Amp rating (fet)

the one I am looking to test is a "Unknown Shindengen SH775AA 35 Amp rating, 15.5V"

which I hear might? be on a cbr10000rr...

http://www.shindengen.com/resources/content/1/1/1/1/documents/SH775%20Data.pdf

**Billy Ricks** · 03-17-2009, 10:31 AM

Originally posted by rustybronco

some cbr1000rrs are shunt type some are not. (I don't know how much they power they dissipate is my reason)
the sh-series should work fine.

the one I am looking to test is a "Unknown Shindengen SH775AA 35 Amp rating, 15.5V"

which I hear might? be on a cbr10000rr...
http://www.shindengen.com/resources/...775%20Data.pdf

Mine is a SH678FB. I think it's just the last two year models that went to FETs.

**posplayr** · 03-18-2009, 12:49 PM

Stator Rewind update

FYI

Bikecliff has a nice writeup recently updated on Rewinding Stators. Discusses the relative merits of a stator rewind re: space, increased volts, heat, current.

Thanks to: Andre le Roux Updated 2009/02/15
and Bike Cliff

http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?yniywx4nu5y

http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=3a0ab726f6117e564012e8015643d9c85717b31b fbde8fc1

Pos

**Matchless** · 03-18-2009, 02:55 PM

Originally posted by posplayr

FYI

Bikecliff has a nice writeup recently updated on Rewinding Stators. Discusses the relative merits of a stator rewind re: space, increased volts, heat, current.

Thanks to: Andre le Roux Updated 2009/02/15
and Bike Cliff

Pos

Oops...! Was not ready for publication yet, but too late now

**posplayr** · 03-18-2009, 03:14 PM

Matchless

Very Nice write up.

Oops...! Was not ready for publication yet, but too late now

And LOL I thought I had overlooked something

U can always update it Andre.

.

Pos

**Nessism** · 03-18-2009, 08:13 PM

Originally posted by dennis roy

OK...so now that my eyes are spinning in opposite directions and I feel like a 3 year old in a genetics class.....what would be the best choice for my '82 850glz? LOL I ask this because when I put my bike away last year I noticed it wasn't charging as well as it should.

The Honda CBR type R/R will bolt in place under the battery box just like a stock R/R. That's what I'm using - I have the shunt type and works great.

Rectifier/Regulator replacement list

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment