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Buying a 1977Gs750 for restoration

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    Buying a 1977Gs750 for restoration

    Hi Guys,
    I’m from australia and want some advice.
    i have bought (just picked up) a 1977 GS750 from one of my very good friends.
    he bought the bike 10 years back to turn it i to a cafe racer , did a couple of things but then lost interest and parked it in his shed and it has been there since .
    bike is dry and no rust outside, he told me he rode it in when he parked it but hasn’t been started in the past 10 years and now all the electricals etc. are all over the place as he started doing some restorations 10 years back.
    my question is that should i start putting my time ams money in the bike seeing I can’t start the engine before i clean the carbs and put the essential wiring together.
    moreover, all the three brake calipers and brake lines, clutch cable, accelerator wire are a throw away and my friend can’t remember how many k’s were on the nike when he bought .

    any suggestions , recommendations and tricks will be really helpful and appreciated.
    i can retun yhe bike any time as it is my mate’s.

    cheers
    abs

    #2
    Remove the ignition cover and use a spanner on the big nut to see if the engine turns over.
    many parts are available from Suzuki But, expect to spend $1,500 AU or more on rubber bits, tires, brake lines, etc
    1978 GS 1000 (since new)
    1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
    1978 GS 1000 (parts)
    1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
    1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
    1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
    2007 DRz 400S
    1999 ATK 490ES
    1994 DR 350SES

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Big T View Post
      Remove the ignition cover and use a spanner on the big nut to see if the engine turns over.
      many parts are available from Suzuki But, expect to spend $1,500 AU or more on rubber bits, tires, brake lines, etc
      Thanks mate,
      so, just check at the ignition moving the points and not having to start it up?
      i bought it for $1500 and have some budget to turn this thing around .
      happy to spend unless i am looking at a full engine rebuild.
      any tricks to know how bad or good the engine is ?

      Comment


        #4
        Once you've got the engine turning over with a spanner, lob some oil down the bores, turn it over again and leave it for a day or two. Come back to it and assemble enough wiring to work the starter (or if it's got a kickstart, use that) to get some idea of the compressions. They'll probably be low, but that's fairly normal on one that's been idle for a long time. They generally start to recover when in use, but especially if you throw some ATF+acetone down the bores to free off the ring packs.
        The time the brew takes to work its magic is well spent by checking the valve clearances anyway, and you can get on with some of the other stuff.
        ---- Dave
        79 GS850N - Might be a trike soon.
        80 GS850T Single HIF38 S.U. SH775, Tow bar, Pantera II. Gnarly workhorse & daily driver.
        79 XS650SE - Pragmatic Ratter - goes better than a manky old twin should.
        92 XJ900F - Fairly Stock, for now.

        Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

        Comment


          #5
          Those engines are pretty much bullet proof, post some photos - let's have a look at it.
          -Mal

          "The only reason for time is so that everything doesn't happen at once." - B. Banzai
          ___________

          78 GS750E

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Grimly View Post
            Once you've got the engine turning over with a spanner, lob some oil down the bores, turn it over again and leave it for a day or two. Come back to it and assemble enough wiring to work the starter (or if it's got a kickstart, use that) to get some idea of the compressions. They'll probably be low, but that's fairly normal on one that's been idle for a long time. They generally start to recover when in use, but especially if you throw some ATF+acetone down the bores to free off the ring packs.
            The time the brew takes to work its magic is well spent by checking the valve clearances anyway, and you can get on with some of the other stuff.
            Thanks for the reply mate.
            you mean put some oil down from where the spark plugs are connected ?
            also what is ATF ? Might be different in australia and what ratio of acetone and ATF ?

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Grimly View Post
              Once you've got the engine turning over with a spanner, lob some oil down the bores, turn it over again and leave it for a day or two. Come back to it and assemble enough wiring to work the starter (or if it's got a kickstart, use that) to get some idea of the compressions. They'll probably be low, but that's fairly normal on one that's been idle for a long time. They generally start to recover when in use, but especially if you throw some ATF+acetone down the bores to free off the ring packs.
              The time the brew takes to work its magic is well spent by checking the valve clearances anyway, and you can get on with some of the other stuff.
              Also,
              i used the kick started to check the compression and it looks like it does have compression just need to check how much .
              is that a good sign if the engine turned over using the kick starter or check has to be done via the big nut on the ignition ?

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by ABS32 View Post

                Thanks for the reply mate.
                you mean put some oil down from where the spark plugs are connected ?
                also what is ATF ? Might be different in australia and what ratio of acetone and ATF ?
                Yep, down the plugholes. ATF is auto transmission fluid, most common / cheapest type around is Dexron 3, but any type will do, mix it 50/50 with acetone.
                If it's kicking over, fine. It would be better to have lubed the bores first.
                ---- Dave
                79 GS850N - Might be a trike soon.
                80 GS850T Single HIF38 S.U. SH775, Tow bar, Pantera II. Gnarly workhorse & daily driver.
                79 XS650SE - Pragmatic Ratter - goes better than a manky old twin should.
                92 XJ900F - Fairly Stock, for now.

                Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

                Comment


                  #9
                  Isn't $1500 a bit steep for a non-runner (from a friend)? I know it was 9 years ago, but my 11E was $1500 and it ran very well. And had a new paint job and seat cover.
                  1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

                  2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Rob S. View Post
                    Isn't $1500 a bit steep for a non-runner (from a friend)? I know it was 9 years ago, but my 11E was $1500 and it ran very well. And had a new paint job and seat cover.
                    I know mate but, there is nothing available here in Australia. US has a massive inventory of these bikes.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Grimly View Post

                      Yep, down the plugholes. ATF is auto transmission fluid, most common / cheapest type around is Dexron 3, but any type will do, mix it 50/50 with acetone.
                      If it's kicking over, fine. It would be better to have lubed the bores first.
                      Awesome,
                      Will do it today.

                      Another question - I checked the engine oil and it is empty as the bike just sat and leaked i guess, no rust or anything .
                      Should i flush the engine using some engine flush or, just fill it up, change the filter and try running and keep that oil in it ?
                      Will be changing filter , the pan gasket , sump plug and washer etc.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by ABS32 View Post

                        Awesome,
                        Will do it today.

                        Another question - I checked the engine oil and it is empty as the bike just sat and leaked i guess, no rust or anything .
                        Should i flush the engine using some engine flush or, just fill it up, change the filter and try running and keep that oil in it ?
                        Will be changing filter , the pan gasket , sump plug and washer etc.
                        With the filter changed and the sump pan cleaned out, you'll have a lot of stuff out that accumulated over the years, so that's a major step anyway. I don't bother with flushes, except for a first fill of cheap oil and change that in a thousand miles or less, maybe 500. Over the next few thousand running miles, a decent modern oil will clean the insides almost to factory fresh.
                        ---- Dave
                        79 GS850N - Might be a trike soon.
                        80 GS850T Single HIF38 S.U. SH775, Tow bar, Pantera II. Gnarly workhorse & daily driver.
                        79 XS650SE - Pragmatic Ratter - goes better than a manky old twin should.
                        92 XJ900F - Fairly Stock, for now.

                        Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by allojohn View Post
                          Those engines are pretty much bullet proof, post some photos - let's have a look at it.
                          Agree. Adjust the valves, rebuild the carbs PROPERLY, not a shortcut job, make sure you have spark, and a clean fuel tank, and it will run!
                          Ed

                          To measure is to know.

                          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by allojohn View Post
                            Those engines are pretty much bullet proof, post some photos - let's have a look at it.
                            Here is the bike .
                            pretty dusty but looks ok overall.
                            also, it has an anti drive system that the previous ownr has disabled using a bolt, not sure if it is the right way.
                            i would like to put it back together, any tips , pros and cons on that.
                            Moreover , it has adjustable forks , never seen that before on a GS.
                            Can’t seem to upload any photos from my phone here !!!!

                            Comment


                              #15
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