Head Gasket, Dry or Sealant? /Machine or DIY w glass?

[Guest]

Guys,
Thanks for the help on the bottom end, I have now moved to the top end of the GS1000G. My question is about the head gasket. I purchased the Versah gasket kit and I'm in the process of cleaning the head should I use the glass method with 400 grit sandpaper and wd40 and slide it back and forth? If so how long? I don't want to pit the head or cause any damage.

Lastly, this question will end with doubt get conflicting answers.

• Do I use anything on the head gasket like Hylomar, Copper Spray or any other sealant? Grease, or just place "dry" and tighten to torque specs?

My worse fear is getting a leak 500-1000 miles....

Thanks in advance! I'm so close
JA

[Grimly]

Opinions are like glass poles, or something like that.

[rphillips]

Have you checked the cylinders to see if they need to be bored?

[Guest]

Have you checked the cylinders to see if they need to be bored?

Sorry bike was running before, I wasn't planning to do a bore. I just want to put everything back together but with a new head gasket.

Just looking for best practices on your methods are I stated above. This is my first head gasket repair. Thanks

[rphillips]

To be honest, I've never done anything to the top of the cylinder block, even after replacing cylinder liners everything just seemed fine. I've never and don't think ever heard of using gasket sealer on head gaskets. But I'm not a pro, just ust'a tinker on some motorcycles.

[KiwiAlfa156]

Most GS(X) motors I've pulled down you can still see the original hone marks on the bores even after high mileage. If you are going to use the original rings, don't touch the bores as the rings are seated to the bore.

You could do the sand paper on plate glass, but I've never found this necessary. I would check the head and barrels for flatness on plate glass with a feeler gauge. I had the 750 Kat barrels planed and the head surface skimmed by a machine shop to close up the squish clearance (no squish on a 2-valve GS). And because the engine had a broken stud.

I've always but on head gaskets dry on clean, grease free surfaces. With a Vesrah or any aftermarket head gaskets make sure that all the o-rings for the oil ways are in place.

This is from my 650 rebuild using an OEM head gasket

[Nessism]

The OEM 650 gasket has a red sealer on it. I think OEM's like Suzuki changed from sealer to no sealer, and back, over the years, so that suggests it doesn't really matter all that much.

I know that Kawasaki also changed their head gaskets numerous times over the years. Personally, I don't typically use sealer unless the factory service manual says to do so. That said, I always use OEM gaskets.

If you want to use sealer, go light. I would NOT use grease.

[Guest]

Most GS(X) motors I've pulled down you can still see the original hone marks on the bores even after high mileage. If you are going to use the original rings, don't touch the bores as the rings are seated to the bore.

You could do the sand paper on plate glass, but I've never found this necessary. I would check the head and barrels for flatness on plate glass with a feeler gauge. I had the 750 Kat barrels planed and the head surface skimmed by a machine shop to close up the squish clearance (no squish on a 2-valve GS). And because the engine had a broken stud.

I've always but on head gaskets dry on clean, grease free surfaces. With a Vesrah or any aftermarket head gaskets make sure that all the o-rings for the oil ways are in place.

This is from my 650 rebuild using an OEM head gasket [IMG]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FWMbHpHZJunfJpGHSJKWKWjxxPRHdTAtAB3x2ei2M875jvBbfy sudXEqafpFg2fND__m7fFIg-

Thanks Kiwi, I also tried my feeler gauge on the lowest setting which was like .002. With a metal ruler running across the head, I can't get the gauge under.
Perhaps as you said, just clean it up and go. Don't try to resurface?

[KiwiAlfa156]

I agree with Nessism re: where to use a sealant and where not to. You just follow the factory recommendation. The only time I use them outside this is if there is some nicks or deeper scratches on the faces. I used some sealer on the oil pan yesterday because of these marks. Might leak, might not. But with a little sealer in this situation is prudent.


As to resurfacing, it depends what your trying to achieve? If the head mating surface is flat and clean (smooth and grease free) the gaskets going to do nicely. If you do lap it on wet and dry on plate glass, you need to be gentle and just clean the surface, taking off the minimum of metal. And then it clean scrupulously. Make sure the stuff threads are clean and dry (do not lube) so the torque is consistent and correct.

[KiwiAlfa156]

Thanks Kiwi, I also tried my feeler gauge on the lowest setting which was like .002. With a metal ruler running across the head, I can't get the gauge under.
Perhaps as you said, just clean it up and go. Don't try to resurface?

The service limit is chunky 0.2mm (0.008") on the head and on the barrels, so at under 0.002" your as flat as you need to be.

Screenshot 2022-09-05 141801.jpg