1981 GSX1100 Katana Based Project

[Shin-Ken 1074]

There are mirrors out there that weigh a lot less than genuine Suzi mirrors however, to have crystal clear buzz free rear vision it is pretty hard to beat the quality of factory mirrors. The other reason for using factory mirrors is to have a stock-ish look and factory mirrors help with that. They are somewhat heavy, the penalty for quality glass and anti-vibe packing and the steel stem doesn't help to keep weight down.

Genuine Suzi by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Fitted the rear seat lock.
Mirrors and lock by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Running tally = 168,486 grams.

[Shin-Ken 1074]

Next is to clean up a set of inner and outer rear guards and fit them. After the guards are done there are only a few parts left to be fitted:


front guard
tank
seat
pipes
brake lines
side-stand
indicators
gear selector
headlight
tail light.


A few of these parts are not plug and play by using OEM parts. Like making an aluminium side-stand and ally rear indicator brackets to replace the OEM steel brackets and the anchor that is the OEM steel side-stand. Will also make an aluminium tail-light bracket as well as having a set of HEL brake lines made so there is still plenty to do.

[Shin-Ken 1074]

Cleaned up a set of rear guards for the DW 180 and although they are not impact damaged the rear guard has some UV damage. Used a boxcutter blade to scrape the grey powdered dead plastic away until I got down to solid black plastic. Used 400 grit to wet sand today and tomorrow will use 800 and 1200 grit to refinish the plastic ensuring to keep the grain in one direction.

Then use some black plastic restorer to finish the job.

Rear guard 1 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Rear guard 2 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Rear guard 3 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Rear guard 4 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Rear guard 5 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Rear guard 6 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Rear guard 7 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Rear guard 8 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Rear guard 9 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr

[steve murdoch]

Your attention to detail on this project is amazing.
I have just used 0000 steel wool and a Back to Black reconditioner on black plastic. Looks great for a couple months. I will try your method on the next round.

[Diirk]

Agree 100% with what steve murdoch said. It's clear that this is a passion project.

[Shin-Ken 1074]

Your attention to detail on this project is amazing.
I have just used 0000 steel wool and a Back to Black reconditioner on black plastic. Looks great for a couple months. I will try your method on the next round.

Hi Steve, thank you, yes, I do like details! Have 1000g wet sanded the rear guard and used black plastic treatment on it. It will never look like new but it looks O.K. and certainly much better than it did before the tidy up so I am happy with it. Any of the plastic treatment products I have used over the years have needed follow up buffing every few months depending on use and weather of course. Here where I live it is Sun damage, Queensland UV is pretty harsh.

[Shin-Ken 1074]

Agree 100% with what steve murdoch said. It's clear that this is a passion project.

Passion or obsession? Depending on the day it can be either or both!

Cheers.

[Shin-Ken 1074]

Using a very soft foam pad and 1000g paper I have sanded the guard ensuring to start at the top section and drag the pad in one direction towards the bottom edge of the guard. Run the pad past the edge of the guard and start again from the top. Use the pad in straight lines and overlap with each pass. Once sanded I used a plastic treatment product as directed on the bottle. Although not perfect it is presentable and with regular buffing it should stay looking good.


Rear guard 10 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Rear guard 11 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Rear guard 13 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Rear guard 14 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Rear guard 15 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr

[Shin-Ken 1074]

Rear guards now installed. Forward section of the guard including OEM grommets.


Rear guard 17 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Rear section of the guard with modified washers, M8 nylon bolts and M6 allen bolts.

Rear guard 16 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Running tally = 169,202 grams.

[Shin-Ken 1074]

Rear guard done.

Rear guard 18 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Why use nylon bolts? Lightest bolts available and only used in areas that don't impact on safety. These are the four bolts for the front guard, Ti vs nylon.

Front guard Ti bolts by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Front guard nylon bolts by Max Mutarn, on Flickr

[Shin-Ken 1074]

OEM rear indicator with OEM steel mount bracket. Aluminium and file time!

OEM indicator steel mount by Max Mutarn, on Flickr

[Shin-Ken 1074]

The aluminium clutch cable pivot lever and Ti bolt fitted to the DW 180. Not much I can do to lighten this one so it will have to stay the way it is.


Ally clutch cable pivot by Max Mutarn, on Flickr

[Lorenzo]

Mirrors and lock by Max Mutarn, on Flickr

Roadriders are a very fine choice

[Shin-Ken 1074]

Roadriders are a very fine choice

Hi Lorenzo, what are Roadriders?

[Shin-Ken 1074]

Comparing OEM headlight and cowl frame to DW headlight and ally cowl frame.

OEM headlight and frame by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


DW headlight by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


DW headlight subframe by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


DW headlight frame by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


OEM assembly = 2,370g vs 1,257 g for the DW assembly.