1981 GSX1100 Katana Based Project

[Shin-Ken 1074]

I did use some science when looking into extending the life of the igniter and Reg/Rec and not "The Force", this time.

By installing the second heat sink with fins between the two units offers an air gap to assist with bleeding off excess heat. The igniter is not well positioned to benefit from direct airflow and its position in a compact area exposed to air heated by the engine is not ideal and this hot air could lower the effect of the heat sink as the heat sink temperature will be equal to the hot air from the engine.

For effective cooling using a heat sink constant airflow is essential to ensure proper heat dissipation. Passive cooling using heat sinks is an efficient process that uses conduction to dissipate thermal energy however, they cannot cool below ambient temperature.

It is important to ensure that the hot-side heat sink does not saturate, which would allow heat to flow back into the igniter. Therefore placing two heat sink base plates together may very well cause the igniter to retain heat as two plates may create excess heat due to the increased mass of two base plates and minimal airflow to dissipate heat.

If it works it works and if it doesn't it was worth a shot.

[Grimly]

I have placed the fins against the igniter to allow heat to bleed off via the fins and air gap between the igniter and heat sink. Placing the base of the heat sink against the igniter base will delay heat shedding as heat will have to be transmitted through double the amount of material. Also, without airflow the mass of the two bases together will transmit heat back into the igniter as the two bases will retain more heat than one base, hence the fins against the igniter.

I'd disagree, but there you go.

[Lorenzo]

We shure Burt Munro has died?

[Shin-Ken 1074]

I'd put the heatsink the other way around, with the flat base contacting the base of the ignitor (and use heat transfer paste).

I have placed the fins against the igniter to allow heat to bleed off via the fins and air gap between the igniter and heat sink. Placing the base of the heat sink against the igniter base will delay heat shedding as heat will have to be transmitted through double the amount of material. Also, without airflow the mass of the two bases together will transmit heat back into the igniter as the two bases will retain more heat than one base, hence the fins against the igniter.

[Grimly]

I'd put the heatsink the other way around, with the flat base contacting the base of the ignitor (and use heat transfer paste).

[Shin-Ken 1074]

OEM battery cradle and igniter unit.


OEM battery cradle 1 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


DW ally cradle and igniter unit, before the heat-sink mod.


DW battery cradle 1 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


OEM cradle, igniter and lead battery = 5,209 grams.

DW ally cradle, igniter and lithium battery = 1,390 grams.

Trimming 3,819 grams from the battery and cradle has worked out pretty well.

[Shin-Ken 1074]

For the Reg/Rec I am moving it outboard to position the cooling fins in clear air flow rather than being jammed in behind the fusebox ex-factory. Cut two spacers from aluminium tube and bolted the Reg/Rec on, job done.

Reg/Rec in factory position behind the fusebox.

Reg rec 2 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Reg rec 3 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Reg/Rec modified position.

Reg rec 5 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Reg rec 6 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr

[Shin-Ken 1074]

While dealing with electrics right now, this is the time to experiment with an idea to help cool the igniter and Reg/Rec. For the igniter I cut to shape an aluminium heat-sink from an old computer. When fitted this allows an air gap as well as the benefit of the heat-sink plate to help cool the igniter.


igniter 2 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Igniter 1 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Igniter 3 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr

[Shin-Ken 1074]

Right and left switch blocks.

RH switchblock by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


LH switchblock by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Running tally = 163,336 grams.

[Shin-Ken 1074]

Slowly, very slowly installing the new harness. So far so good with plugs ending in the correct position and wire colours matching the SZ original wire plan.

Unicorn harness 1 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Unicorn harness 2 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Running tally = 162,905 grams

[Shin-Ken 1074]

A company in Japan made aluminium cowl sub-frames for the 1100 Katana and I managed to buy one before they stopped producing the sub-frames a few years ago. They are a three part frame with the main section for the headlight and two small sections for the cowl side panels.

This is the headlight frame.

DW 180 ally cowl fsubframe by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


DW 180 cowl frame 2 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr

Running tally = 162,097 grams.

[Shin-Ken 1074]

OEM coils installed.


OEM coils by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


OEM coils 1 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr



Running tally = 161,612 grams.

[Shin-Ken 1074]

The SZ OEM wiring harness has been NLA for awhile however, Unicorn in Japan make a replacement harness for the SZ 1100 Katana. Happy Days!


Harness 1 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Harness 2 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Harness 3 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr

[Shin-Ken 1074]

Relay/fuse panel has been installed after trimming the backing plate and swapping the screws and bolts.

OEM panel by Max Mutarn, on Flickr

DW panel by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


DW panel installed by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Running tally = 160,800 grams.

[Shin-Ken 1074]

OEM coils, tough, reliable and last for years. No aftermarket coils need apply here.

OEM coils by Max Mutarn, on Flickr