1982 Suzuki GS750T - Project

[SamLack99]

Well, after much procrastination, I've finally plucked up the courage to get Suzy back on the road.

This is the first motorcycle project I've ever worked on.

I bought her from a gentleman who rented one of the garages opposite my house. He told me she'd been sitting for 3 years, but he had started her a few times.

She reminded me of the bikes I lusted after as a kid and it was too good an opportunity to miss.

Hopefully (fingers crossed) it will be a relatively simple project to get her up and running again.

Thanks to the helpful advice given by members of this forum (thank you!) in my introduction post, I have something resembling a plan of action:

1. Sort the battery out - Done
2. Check the tank for rust and leaks - Working on
3. Change oil
4. Try to start
5. Remove the carb bank and clean

Looks simple when I write it down like that LOL.


Here are some photographs from yesterday:

It took me a long time to work out how to get the old fuel out of the tank...



...Then I discovered the tool I got for bleeding the front disc brake (that's a job much further down the line) allowed me to bypass the vacuum system. Though further reading suggests that selecting the 'Prime' setting on the petcock would have worked **Doh!**



The old battery was removed...




I've been repurposing the shed and thanks to some very creative storage solutions, there is room for Suzy. Which is going to come in handy now that Winter is coming to Devon. Only took me three hours to get her in LOL!



Next up...

... Change the Oil

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Always nice to welcome another "T" .

You really shouldn't have had to do all that to drain the tank. Simply turning the petcock to prime (PRI) should have let all the fuel flow out, no vacuum required. It does help the flow if you remove the fuel cap.

[SamLack99]

Today, I thought I'd change the oil.

• Grabbed the manual
• Read the steps
• Removed the oil filler cap
• Removed the drain plug
• Removed the oil pressure cover
• Disconnected the oil pressure cable
• Undid the 5 nuts holding the oil filter cover in place

And that's where I hit a brick wall.

I can't get the oil filter cover off.

It won't budge.

My guess is that the engine was not originally black, and when it was painted black, the cover was painted over forming a paint seal. I've removed as much of the paint from around the cover as I can and covered everything in WD40 fast-release penetrant spray.

But it still won't budge!

I'm a total newbie and this is my first oil change on a motorcycle. I'd appreciate any advice you guys may be able to offer.

If it helps, I recorded a video of what I'm on about it.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

82 was a silver engine. Your engine was painted, poorly, by a PO.

my opinions:
Let what you’ve already sprayed in there for a while and leave it alone. Or some love taps with a wooden or hard plastic mallet all around the edge may just give it the encouragement it needs. The cover is spring loaded, with a center spring that presses against the filter. It’s not a lot of pressure, but is enough to make the cover bind on the studs if you try to remove it in anything less than a perfectly perpendicular direction from the mating surface.

[SamLack99]

Thanks Rich, I'll leave it overnight to soak and see what happens tomorrow =)

[Rich82GS750TZ]

When you do get the cover off and are ready to put the new gasket in the groove in the cover, a thin smear of grease on the gasket will keep it in the groove so it doesn’t squirm out when trying to align the cover on the studs and get the nuts started. I just put a bit of grease on thin and forefinger and runn the gasket between them. Again, not a lot. Just enough to make the oring/gasket (it’s more of a squiggly shaped deal, matching the cover shape) stay in its groove. And yes, you need a new one, every oil change. If you didn’t get one with the filter, get one from your dealer. When I buy from my dealer, filter comes with the gasket. When I buy from partshark.com, they are separate items. I don’t know why. Anyway, If it comes out of the groove while you’re tightening down the cover nuts, you have to take the cover back off and start again. Also, be sure to get a new gasket/ crush washer for the drain plug. Make sure you get the old one off. Sometimes they stick to the underside of the drain plug bolt and look as if it’s part of the bolt head. I’ve had to pry them off (gently). Have even had to cut them with a dremel cutting disk (carefully).

Hopefully you’ve already visited BikeCliffs website, link in my Signature. You already have the Clymers. I find that book covers some things more thoroughly than the factory manual, and visa-versa. On BikeCliffs you’re see the GS 750 (16 valve; LT, LX, EX, manual. That’s the one you want. and also the Supplement for the ET (my contribution). It has some stuff you won’t find anywhere else specially for the models E and T for 1982 (year code Z).

[SamLack99]

Three days it's taken me to get the engine oil cover off.

Finally worked out one of the studs had rusted and swollen up making it impossible to slip the cover off.

I ended up using vice-grips to extract the stud.

I got lucky...

...It didn't snap =)

04-suzy.jpg

Just gotta find a new/replacement cover now as there are a few dings that will probably cause a leak in spite of the gasket.

We'll see.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

You may want to replace all of the 5 studs. I pray you are as fortunate getting them all out with no fuss.
The top 2 are different from the bottom 3, according to the parts fiche. You can get still buy them from your dealer or online OEM parts sellers like partshark.com. Probably @ $2/each no matter where you get them.


The cover may take a bit of digging on ebay, but they come up all the time. This engine cover is shared by lots of models. This will help your search.

• 1980 SUZUKI GS750ET - OIL PUMP - OIL FILTER
• 1980 SUZUKI GS750LT - OIL PUMP - OIL FILTER
• 1981 SUZUKI GS750EX - OIL PUMP - OIL FILTER
• 1981 SUZUKI GS750LX - OIL PUMP - OIL FILTER
• 1982 SUZUKI GS750TZ - OIL PUMP - OIL FILTER

These would be the 80-82 silver colors.
There are more 83+ models that would be factory black.

[KiwiAlfa156]

Hi There, Just finished reviving a 750. So hopefully some of this helps.

Two upper studs are longer due to the oil pressure switch cover. Chase the stud hole threads with the appropriate tap (M6 x 1.0 - from memory, but match the pitch of the tap to the thread on the stud to be sure). Before replacing the stud (two nuts locked together on the stud end to screw the stud in) clean the hole out of any grease and oil and apply stud locker to the thread. If you have any doubts on the integrity of the threads, get them heli-coiled before fitting the stud, or could DIY the thread insert with a kit -if you are confident with a drill and a thread tap.

Good luck. Keen to follow your progress.

[SamLack99]

You may want to replace all of the 5 studs. I pray you are as fortunate getting them all out with no fuss.
The top 2 are different from the bottom 3, according to the parts fiche...

Thanks, you just saved me from ordering 2 of the wrong studs. I hadn't noticed (until you pointed it out) that the top two are different. Thanks for that =)

Order has been placed with CMSNL over in the Netherlands. For anyone else in Europe they seem to have quite a catalogue of parts.

Just trying to source an oil filter cover now - Product number:1653145400.

Wish me luck!

[SamLack99]

...Before replacing the stud (two nuts locked together on the stud end to screw the stud in) clean the hole out of any grease and oil and apply stud locker to the thread...

Thanks KiwiAlfa156, I was wondering how best to put the studs in without damaging the threads. This clears it up for me. Another problem solved =)

[SamLack99]

Whilst waiting for Suzy's bits to arrive I thought I'd make a start on removing the old engine paint. Starting with this:



I'm hoping some experienced person will save me hours of searching the Internet and recommend a good product for speeding up the removal of old paint off a motorcycle engine whilst doing the minimum amount of damage to aluminum and rubber parts. I have plenty of elbow grease, I just like to maximise the return on my effort by using the right tools =)

[Grimly]

Whilst waiting for Suzy's bits to arrive I thought I'd make a start on removing the old engine paint. Starting with this:



I'm hoping some experienced person will save me hours of searching the Internet and recommend a good product for speeding up the removal of old paint off a motorcycle engine whilst doing the minimum amount of damage to aluminum and rubber parts. I have plenty of elbow grease, I just like to maximise the return on my effort by using the right tools =)

Starchem stripper is still proper, decent paint stripper (methylene chloride) but it might not be available in less than 5L bottles.
If you do find it, be careful with the fumes, etc. It's truly nasty stuff if you get on the wrong side of it.
As you're in the UK, you can mail order it, once you find it, but you have to state a disclaimer saying you're a professional and know what you're doing.

[SamLack99]

This is turning into the worst oil change I've ever done...

...I'm guessing the drain plug isn't supposed to look like this LOL.



I took a look at the drain hole in the engine oil sump pan and it doesn't look good.

Having used the search function here at the GSR forum, it seems my options are:

1. Heli-coil/True-sert thread repair
2. A replacement oil sump pan
3. An oversized self-tapping oil drain plug

Of the three my preferred option is #3.

The trouble is, unless my 'Google-Fu' is very weak (possible), here in the United Kingdom, I'm only able to find 'piggy-back' versions. Which seems like a bad idea to me. Just another leak source to worry about.

If anyone knows of a source for a good old-fashioned M14 X 1.5 oversized, self-tapping oil drain plug here in the UK, I'd love to know.

Otherwise, I'll have to order one from the USA, where shipping will be 4 times more than the part itself LOL.

[Big Block]

You're following a hack unfortunately.