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Jdub goes there 1981 650e rebuild

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    #16
    20240204_125245.jpg Front rim cleaned up and ready for bearings, tube.and Bridgestone Battlax tire.
    Inner dark graphite (?) paint a bit faded in places, so about 50/50 whether to get it recoated.

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      #17
      Looking GOOD!

      One thing with painting the wheels...If you are the type to use solvent to clean chain lube splatter, then rattle can paint is not a good play. You may want to leave well enough alone, on the paint front. Some guys get their wheels powder coated, which would be good. It's all about the escalation effect!
      Ed

      To measure is to know.

      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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        #18
        Originally posted by Nessism View Post
        Looking GOOD!

        One thing with painting the wheels...If you are the type to use solvent to clean chain lube splatter, then rattle can paint is not a good play. You may want to leave well enough alone, on the paint front. Some guys get their wheels powder coated, which would be good. It's all about the escalation effect!
        I saw that you got your Kawi rims gun coated. Was that pretty expensive?
        20240204_142821.jpg So far I have rattle-canned the rear rotor and caliper hanger bracket with VHT Satin Black Caliper paint. These are the only ones I baked in my light bulb oven (with heat gun assist). Got it close to 200F.
        I also rattled the seat pan and all three calipers with Duplicolor acrylic epoxy. These were part of my learning curve as it only took a few drops of brake fluid to eat both primer and paint clean off right next to the banjo fitting. I thought I had the fluid purged and wiped off, but it might have been a drip that melted it. Anyways, the calipers will need to be redone.
        Seat pan already showing scrapes where it slides into the frame.

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          #19
          20240204_145546.jpg Spent most of Saturday prepping the frame.
          Aircraft remover only took off about 30%, followed by a stripping disc and stiff brass cup brush. Still about 40% to go and almost all of the tight areas remain.
          ​​​​​Other than installing the carburetors (which I will eventually get to do again), I don't look forward to this type of work. Just might farm this out to a sand blaster shop.

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            #20
            Knowing where to draw the line on "good enough" is an age-old quandary. Good luck with that! What you have shown so far suggests you are going to have ONE FINE ride when done. Take that for what it's worth...

            Yeah, I used Gun Kote on my wheels and brake calipers. It's less affected by brake fluid and solvents than common rattle can paint. If I were to reset, I'd use Cerakote. If you have a compressor, sandblaster, spray gun, and an anal desire to make things the best they can be, that's the play, in my opinion.
            Ed

            To measure is to know.

            Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

            Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

            Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

            KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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              #21
              Finally got the bottom race out with the help of a $20 amazon tool. Actually, it might come in handy for installing wheel bearings.

              Not a lot of progress this week. A little paint stripping and finding out that the fork caps are clips and not threaded caps like almost every other bike.
              Will get painting scheduled this week.
              Want some frame parts in semi gloss like the main frame and some in satin with clear like the forks. Would prefer the original scheme, but not sure what it was.
              20240210_203036.jpg
              Last edited by jdub6092; 02-11-2024, 10:13 AM.

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                #22
                20240210_205218.jpg Would be easier to pop this cap if it was still clamped on the bike. Have to press the top down while prying out the stopper. Think its going to be a two man job.

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                  #23
                  Can I get some suggestions on black paint scheme.
                  I am going to have the frame and swingarm done in semi-gloss powder, but not sure about the kickstand, center stand, steering tree, airbox, battery holder, engine mounts, forks, exhaust mounts, etc. Thinking some of these will be done in satin. Would like to go with the original scheme, but can't really tell what that was.

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                    #24
                    I would powder coat all the frame parts the same, including the other parts you mentioned. Personally, I like gloss black. It easier to clean then a semi-gloss and it's closer to the factory finish.
                    1979 GS1000S,

                    1982 Honda CX500 Turbo, 1982 Honda MB5 w/CR80 motor, 1977 Honda "nekid" Goldwing, 1976 Honda CB550F cafe', 1972 Honda XL250 cafe'

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                      #25
                      Gloss black would be my call as well, that is what the factory used.
                      2018 Honda Africa Twin AS
                      2013 DR 650 Grey, sold 1981 GS 650E Silver,

                      1980 GS1000ST Blue & White, X2

                      2012 DL650 Vstrom Foxy Orange, in storage
                      1981 CT110 X2 "Postie Bikes" Gone to a New Home.
                      2002 BMW 1150 GS Blue & White - Sold
                      1975 BMW R90/6 Black - Sold 1984 GS1150EF Sold
                      1982 BMW R100 Africa trip, Stolen - Recovered- Sold
                      1977-1980 Suzuki GS550, GS1000E, GS1000S GSX750, GSX1100,s
                      Hondas ST90, CR125 CB175 , CB350 CB750, NSU Quickly, Yamaha RD's 350/400,

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                        #26
                        20240215_142311.jpg Another day, another tool.
                        I was able to depress the fork cap with a big screwdriver to expose the stopper ring, but keeping the tube stable and popping the ring out was becoming futile. After several near occasions of a brain aneurysm, I decided to buy a cheap set of gear pullers and attach the fork to the upper tree clamp. After about 30 seconds the ring was out. The rest of the disassembly was a piece of cake.

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by nvr2old View Post
                          I would powder coat all the frame parts the same, including the other parts you mentioned. Personally, I like gloss black. It easier to clean then a semi-gloss and it's closer to the factory finish.
                          Thanks for the suggestion. There are two reasons why I am hesitating on gloss. A lot of comments about how every imperfection and dirt shows up, and mainly because the parts fiche lists a semigloss black and another black. The original was certainly some level of glossy, but not super high gloss.
                          Is it possible that it was originally semi-gloss with gloss clear. I'm sure there are gradations of gloss, so maybe I'm over thinking this.

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                            #28
                            20240215_150446.jpg About 4 hours of cleaning, stripping, sanding and scotchbrite, I have another piece almost ready for paint.
                            I sure could use a sandblaster!

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by jdub6092 View Post

                              Thanks for the suggestion. There are two reasons why I am hesitating on gloss. A lot of comments about how every imperfection and dirt shows up, and mainly because the parts fiche lists a semigloss black and another black. The original was certainly some level of glossy, but not super high gloss.
                              Is it possible that it was originally semi-gloss with gloss clear. I'm sure there are gradations of gloss, so maybe I'm over thinking this.
                              As far as I know, Suzuki just painted them gloss black. Whoever powder coats it can get it about as smooth as it's gonna get when they sandblast the parts. It gets all the nooks and crannies. For years I used to spend crazy hours sanding, prepping and painting frames..until having my bike parts powder coated. My frame and all parts (in gloss) looked amazing when I got them back, and has held up beautifully since 2009. It's so nice dropping off parts and picking them up done and ready for reassembly.
                              Last edited by nvr2old; 02-15-2024, 08:13 PM.
                              1979 GS1000S,

                              1982 Honda CX500 Turbo, 1982 Honda MB5 w/CR80 motor, 1977 Honda "nekid" Goldwing, 1976 Honda CB550F cafe', 1972 Honda XL250 cafe'

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by Kiwi Canuck View Post
                                Gloss black would be my call as well, that is what the factory used.
                                Hey kiwi the great, nice to see you here.
                                You are partly responsible for my vasilation on my black paint decisions not only because of your professed love for VHT satin black, but because of how nice it looked on your six fiddy.

                                I have decided to go with a gloss black on all but rotors, calipers.amd muffler brackets which will be VHT Satin.

                                Just got a quote for $400 for powder coating with 1-2 week lead time. Can't wait to have this back so I can start building back up.

                                On a sad note, I was quoted $1600-$1800 for tank, fender, covers and tail. I will get a few more quotes and hope that this isnt typical. This guy said he does painting for a motorcycle museum in South Dakota.

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