Reviving an 82 GS1100GK

[Burque73]

I thought it best to go ahead and start a thread for this project. It's going to take a while.

I have been on the lookout for a decent looking GK for years. One finally came up and the timing worked out for me to have it shipped here. I won't go into the back history of the bike, but if you're interested, here's a link to the for sale thread.

Here's a shot of the GK on the trailer headed here.



More to follow.

[dgates1]

Here’s another one just like it for sale in the Dallas Fort Worth area. $3k

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1478535172778015

[Burque73]

Here’s another one just like it for sale in the Dallas Fort Worth area. $3k

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...78535172778015

Well, looky there.

By the time I get this one on the road I probably will have spent what he's asking for that one, maybe more.

[Burque73]

Here's where I've gotten so far. Checked valve clearance the other day, only had to swap one shim out.

20240908_205511 by Roger, on Flickr

Carbs are ready to take the Berryman plunge.

20240914_155740 by Roger, on Flickr

I can't locate new OEM Left Side carb boots. Part number LH 13120-49100 isn't available, but RH 13110-49100 are available. Looking at the two boots that didn't fall apart I don't see any difference between left and right.

[Burque73]

Turns out, Suzuki discontinued the LH carb boots.
new part numbers are LH 13120-49101 and RH 13110-49101

[Burque73]

Not sure how long this project will take. If the last couple of weeks is any indication, I should have it on the road by springtime. Two carbs cleaned, two to go.

Called partzilla and they don't have, can't get LH boots either. Emailed cruzin image hoping they've got something. Guess I could roll the dice and pick up these off of ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/404305471089?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=cijhosZ-TIi&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=iedh5zvytoa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

[Burque73]

I did wind up getting these aftermarket boots. I'm cautiously optimistic that they'll work. The rubber doesn't completely cover the metal base around the bolt holes llike the newer stock ones.
They came with O-Rings and clamps so for around $60 that's less than half the cost of stock stuff. The dimensions seem spot on, as well as the angles needed for left and right sides.

Here are two new ones (top) compared to stock (bottom)

20241002_083337 by Roger, on Flickr

[Burque73]

Rather than run to the hardware store for 10 different sizes of stainless bolts, for around $30 I ordered a set off of flEaBay. So far they seem to be the right size.

20241002_084440 by Roger, on Flickr

I ran into a snag rebuilding the cam chain tensioner. The plastic adjuster knob was broken. Luckily I had another tensioner in a box to pilfer one from. It was from another bike and looked totally different, but the knob fit.

20241001_201233 by Roger, on Flickr

Another snag, I forgot to order a tensioner gasket when I got the new oil seals and such. Had an extra breather cover gasket laying around though so...

20241002_124013 by Roger, on Flickr

Ready to mount, Fingers crossed!

20241002_113856 by Roger, on Flickr

[Burque73]

I was super excited to get the choke plungers back from zed1015 yesterday. Look at these beauties!

20241003_060019 by Roger, on Flickr

Speaking of the choke, I'll bet it would be useless with this tube plugged with gunk. After dipping twice for a couple of hours each time, it was still not letting carb spray through. A clipping from a bicycle cable did the trick though.

20241002_155026 by Roger, on Flickr

[Burque73]

Had a productive day today. Carbs are ready to bench sync and check fuel level in the bowls.

Here's before and after. My first carb tear down and rebuild. Only took two weeks, LOL. Evenings after work mostly.

20240908_173403 by Roger, on Flickr
20241003_204310 by Roger, on Flickr

[Burque73]

Had a little bit of time to work on the GK today. I tried to find some bolts that match the bowl drains to drill through for checking the fuel level. No dice! Closest our local fastener place had was 1/4 28 thread. They said Suzuki probably made their own special size there. I any case, I needed to do something instead of just trusting the float height.

Here's a rather hoakey, but effective setup. Just need some 1/2" ID clear hose, clamps and zip ties. The clear hose will turn rock hard soon after having gas in it but will suffice for long enough to get the job done.

20241004_173427 by Roger, on Flickr

All of the floats were set at the minimum height, 21.4mm, giving the max amount of fuel. As soon as I let the gas flow, it poured out of the carbs and up through the vent T's. Adjustments needed!
I set them to 23mm and got closer.

20241004_171949 by Roger, on Flickr

20241004_175012 by Roger, on Flickr

#1and #4 were still high, #2 perfect, and #3 a little low. Made a few minor adjustments and got closer.

20241004_171706 by Roger, on Flickr

20241004_174411 by Roger, on Flickr

#4 is still being stubborn. It had to be set a little above the spec height to get fuel level where I wanted it. After a few tries I set it at 24.4mm. Hope I don't have to change out the float needle assembly. Maybe it'll seat better over time. The needles didn't have ridges worn in them, per se, but showed a little wear.
20241003_114315 by Roger, on Flickr

Still need to bench sync, then get the tank flushed with Evaporust and maybe sealed, depending on how it looks afterward. I'm trying to stay focuse on one system at a time, but wind up jumping from the engine to the fuel system. Eventually brakes and electrical need attention. Tires, and bearings are here and waiting. I'm expecting to find a worn out spline on the rear wheel. Should have a couple black ones in a box somewhere, though.

[Burque73]

Looking into the electrical system now. Under the battery box is what appears to be the original R/R, if not original, certainly a stock unit. I'll need to cut out the headlight loop and reroute the stator wiring to the SH775 that, thanks to Nessism is on it's way. Looking at the corroded grounds and melted connectors, I'm wondering if the stator is worth keeping. It's black but doesn't look like any of the poles are melted.

20241006_172834 by Roger, on Flickr

20241007_174100 by Roger, on Flickr

I let the case covers marinate in carb dip for a while hoping to soften the gaskets. Seemed to help a little, but what really helped make scraping the gaskets off easier was the stripper I used on the aluminum. Just regular paint stripper from Home Depot. Aircraft stripper, which I used last time, wasn't necessary.

I've been struggling to get a failed liner out of the tank. It was some paper thin, transparent material that was peeling. Thought maybe kerosene would break it down. After draining the kerosene I soaked it in Evaporust, which did vary little. Then I poured paint stripper in it and swished it around for a few hours. That helped a lot, but still some remains. It's got acetone in it right now.

I had been using a strip of gorilla tape over the petcock holes, which worked until the acetone, then finally I came to my senses and made an aluminum plate to cover the holes. Just used the old O-ring from the petcock. A 1-1/2" plumbing test plug worked for the fuel sending unit hole. Still working on plugging the filler hole, but getting close to a solution.

20241009_192324 by Roger, on Flickr

20241009_194734 by Roger, on Flickr

That thick rubber seal wouldn't stay put so I scavenged a gasket from an old gas cap. This may work for when I do the Por15.

[Brendan W]

This is what a healthy stator looks like. Measure the resistances between phases and phase to ground. Even then, a load test could reveal weakness.
You can see someone used bullet connectors here and they fried.
I would consider replacing the melting bullets with spade type with the help of a proper crimping tool.
DSC_0043.jpg

[Burque73]

Thanks, Brendan. I'll get the multimeter on it before buttoning it back up for sure. There's none of that color left, it's just black. I think the Caltric stator I bought for the 850 a few years ago was under $50. i'm thinking I'll grab one just in case.

[Grimly]

Looking into the electrical system now. Under the battery box is what appears to be the original R/R, if not original, certainly a stock unit. I'll need to cut out the headlight loop and reroute the stator wiring to the SH775 that, thanks to Nessism is on it's way. Looking at the corroded grounds and melted connectors, I'm wondering if the stator is worth keeping. It's black but doesn't look like any of the poles are melted.

.

When I fitted an SH-775 I deliberately kept the old, blackened and slighty crispy stator in place to see how long it would last under the new, kinder, gentler regime.
That was in around 2015. It's still there, still charging fine.
For the last two years I've been thinking it's time to halt the experiment and fit the new stator, but life gets in the way, and it's still working ok.