GS450T Restoration

[Guest]

Only way I could get mine out was to undo the rear mudguard from memory and that gave it enough room to go back a bit and come out.

Did this back in about 2005 so I can't remember exactly... but I certainly didn't have to do anything drastic to the engine.

[Charlie G]

Only way I could get mine out was to undo the rear mudguard from memory and that gave it enough room to go back a bit and come out.

Did this back in about 2005 so I can't remember exactly... but I certainly didn't have to do anything drastic to the engine.

I was thinking the same thing. Going backward, toward the wheel. You might have to drop the rear fender (mudguard) and/or wheel.

cg

By the way...where are you located?

[daj12192]

I was thinking the same thing. Going backward, toward the wheel. You might have to drop the rear fender (mudguard) and/or wheel.

cg

By the way...where are you located?

Updated my profile, I live in the Akron, Ohio, area. And I'll go try to get it out the back way again...

[daj12192]

About to try and get the bike to start up for the first time. I was wondering what type of oil you would use for the air filter, or does it even matter? I have 10W-40 and 30 HD on hand.

[Charlie G]

The motorcycle shop sold me some K&N air filter oil in a spray can. Handy to use but can be messy. I read to take care not to apply to much.


Charliie G.

[davidduarte]

About to try and get the bike to start up for the first time. I was wondering what type of oil you would use for the air filter, or does it even matter? I have 10W-40 and 30 HD on hand.

Yes, it does matter! 10W-40 is what is stamped (IIRC) on the oil filler cap/dipstick. Don't use anything that is labeled "energy conserving" (5W30, 10W30, 5W20 etc). There are links elsewhere on this site that explain a lot about oil for motorcycles.

[Guest]

Any ideas on to what I should do to the exhaust and the flaky white stuff on the engine?

Do you mean to clean them off?

I used steel wool and chrome polish on my pipes and it cleaned them up ALOT. They still arnt perfect but I can see chrome rather than rust now, there is some pitting of course.

The flakey white stuff is the factory clear coat to prevent the aluminum from oxidizing. What I did for mine is went to walmart and bought a multi-pack of steel wool, Really coarse, medium, and fine and the chrome polish. Then Scrub it with a little polish and the coarse steel wool all over to remove the clear. Then do it again with the medium, then again with the fine and it will polish up really nice. It takes time and elbow grease but man does it ever look good. Ive heard of people using chemicals to remove the clear like aircraft remover (stripper) but I havent tried it.. Search polishing aluminum and see what you find.

After alot of time and effort you can get this. (not mine)

[davidduarte]

Is there anyway to get the airbox out of the frame without taking the cylinder head off? snip

It must be possible, Pete has had his bike apart, and is now getting it back together: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=158670

Pete, how did you get your airbox out? Why do you want to take the airbox out? Are you planning on repainting the frame? Unless you're doing a complete teardown and rebuild, it's probably not necessary.

[Guest]

1st starting

About to try and get the bike to start up for the first time. I was wondering what type of oil you would use for the air filter, or does it even matter? I have 10W-40 and 30 HD on hand.

If you haven't tried to start it already, or, if you have, and it's just cranking w/out starting, that might be a good thing, in any case when you first go to start it, do it with the choke off, so that the oil has a chance to circulate a bit before it starts. If you use full choke, and it starts, the engine might race before oil gets a chance to build up pressure and run dry engine momentarily before oil gets to the head, etc.

[Scott W]

I couldn't pull the airbox out of mine until I removed the carbs. came right out after that.

[Guest]

I got the airbox out before I touched the carbs from memory, but I had to loosen the rear plastic inner mudguard before I could get it out.

It was still a tight squeeze.

[Guest]

Actually I just had a closer look at your frame and it appears that the T frame is pretty much identical to the E frame, which means if there is such a thing as a T over here, there's a chance of getting a seat pan and rear mudguard and tail light that will fit my frame and give me the look I want... cool

[daj12192]

Do you mean to clean them off?

I used steel wool and chrome polish on my pipes and it cleaned them up ALOT. They still arnt perfect but I can see chrome rather than rust now, there is some pitting of course.

The flakey white stuff is the factory clear coat to prevent the aluminum from oxidizing. What I did for mine is went to walmart and bought a multi-pack of steel wool, Really coarse, medium, and fine and the chrome polish. Then Scrub it with a little polish and the coarse steel wool all over to remove the clear. Then do it again with the medium, then again with the fine and it will polish up really nice. It takes time and elbow grease but man does it ever look good. Ive heard of people using chemicals to remove the clear like aircraft remover (stripper) but I havent tried it.. Search polishing aluminum and see what you find.

After alot of time and effort you can get this. (not mine)

Yes, that's what I meant, and thanks for the tips. As well as everyone else, I'm just starting out working on motorcycles so every little thing is appreciated. That'll be what I'll do next once I get it fired up. The air box came out too. However, after I put the bike back together the start button is dead. Everything else electrical works great, and before I broke the bike down I tested the starter and it had spark and compression. I looked for a help guide on the website to see what I haven't hooked up right without any success. Is there some common thing I maybe forgot to do? I have some pics of the electric side and the ground cable on the other side.

[Guest]

My starter button used to play up due to age. A few times I thought it was dead but a push and wriggle eventually got it to go. Perhaps it's as simple as that?

[Guest]

carefully take the starter button apart, there is a spring in there so be careful not to loose it. Then clean the contacts off, the copper can get crud on it over time, I just scraped mine off with a knife and that worked. Also check your grounds and clean them off, or better yet move them directly to the battery, I had that problem too when my starter button wouldnt work.