81 gs1000 g

[zaipai]

I wonder what the red stuff is. Could it be that red gasket goop from a tube.

Yea, I suspect that is what it is. I can't find any reason the PO would have done that but there it is. It's gone now tho. However now when I put the fuel valve in a position to have the gas flow, it runs out of the air holes in the two left carbs (as you sit on the bike) so I have some investigating to do to figure that one out.

Scott...

[850 Combat]

gas leakes out because the float valves are not stopping it from doing so. Chances are that this is because there is crud in them, or they are worn out. More than likely, it is both.

[zaipai]

Bas leakes out because the float valves are not stopping it from doing so. Chances are that this is because there is crud in them, or they are worn out. More than likely, it is both.

Then its the floats? I replaced the float needle and the tube they sit in with new ones from the kit I got. I did go out and play with it some, I turned it to Pri again and the other two carbs started leaking, but not the left two as happened before. So just out of desperation, I gapped the plugs (.025in) and squirted some gas in each cylinder and replaced the plugs and tried it again and she tried to start, in fact got a big old back fire from it. So I suspect its the carbs. The main problem at this point is that bar that runs along the bottom that holds the carbs together.. has screws I can't get out because they are frozen in. So I am going to try again tomorrow and use some WD40 first..

Its getting there.. I think.

M Gosh 850 Combat where do you store all those bikes, and more over how do you find time to ride them all...?

Scott...

[Steve]

Thanks for the advice Steve, I will use the stock ones if at all possible. I only got the kits to use the gaskets etc.. Not so much for the jets.. ....

Those would be some mighty expensive gaskets.

Carb kits are usually about $20 or so each. You can get bowl gaskets for about $4 each.

However look at the image, the insides of the carbs are very clean, the picture below is seconds after I took them off.

Nice picture, but that's not where they need to be clean.

Remove the jets, take a look at the tiny holes behind them. THOSE are what need to be clean.

Depending on how long the bike has been sitting, those little passages will gunk up and the best way to clean them out is to take the carbs completely apart, according to the carb cleaning guide and dip them. You will need to get that bottom rail off, though. Don't waste your money on WD-40 if you are wanting to remove stuck screws. WD-40 is NOT a penetrating oil. By the way, it's not much of an OIL, either, but that's another topic. Use PB Blaster for your penetrating oil, but you will likely be able to remove those screws without any oil if you would simply use the correct tools. Use an impact driver with a #3 Phillips bit.

.

[mike10]

impact driver

I had to use an Impact driver. to get the screws out of the rack. I think its the best way and won't mess up the screw heads. Be careful. Impact drivers do not cost much. And there good to get side covers off to. Also if you have to drill the little caps out to get to the airscrews take it real easy do not drill into the screw. Then you will have to use a screw driver that fits real good. Mine were locked in with a drop of paint from the factory. After almost buggering the slot up on the airscrews someone on the site told me to put paint remover on the screws and wait then turn them in and out till they come loose.

[zaipai]

Good news.. Kinda

Well good news kinda..

I took some starting fluid and turned the gas on Pri and sprayed the starting fluid in the carbs and it tried to start, I did this a few more times (at this point gas is leaking out of all the cabs) and she started and ran. In fact it would idle and I have to say it ran smooth as silk given, there were no air filters on, and gas streaming out the back of the carbs. Once I turned the gas lever so it was straight up and down, it would run for a bit then stall, as if it would run out of gas. Then I figured it out. I only had a little gas in the tank, so I moved the lever to directly across from PRI position and started it up and she ran great, a few moments later the gas started streaming out of the back of the carbs again. So all this means, I definitely have to rebuild the carbs further then I am comfortable with. I am a complete newb here and really dont want to do it. However I can not afford to have the shop do it, so..

PB Blaster is out of the question, I have not found it any place around here. I saw a thread about it, so I went up to the local auto store and no dice. WD40 is a penetrating oil, and while it does not work great, it does work and its better then nothing. I can try the impact wrench, however first I have to stop some place and find one. Seem's that maybe the best option.

I am not sure exactly what you mean by removing the caps however I think I know.. If I run across that I will have some paint remover handy just in case. Thanks for the tip.

Lord, this could be a complete disaster, maybe I will see if I can find a step by step guide on it some place. Carb rebuilds make me very nervous.

I will take a Video of the gas coming out and post it once my wife and kid are back from the beach.

Wish me luck guys.. (Any one in Kenosha County feel like stopping by to help there is steak and beer in it for ya!!!)

Scott..

[will61310]

auto zone has PB Blaster

[mike10]

Do not fear the carbs

Well good news kinda..

I took some starting fluid and turned the gas on Pri and sprayed the starting fluid in the carbs and it tried to start, I did this a few more times (at this point gas is leaking out of all the cabs) and she started and ran. In fact it would idle and I have to say it ran smooth as silk given, there were no air filters on, and gas streaming out the back of the carbs. Once I turned the gas lever so it was straight up and down, it would run for a bit then stall, as if it would run out of gas. Then I figured it out. I only had a little gas in the tank, so I moved the lever to directly across from PRI position and started it up and she ran great, a few moments later the gas started streaming out of the back of the carbs again. So all this means, I definitely have to rebuild the carbs further then I am comfortable with. I am a complete newb here and really dont want to do it. However I can not afford to have the shop do it, so..

PB Blaster is out of the question, I have not found it any place around here. I saw a thread about it, so I went up to the local auto store and no dice. WD40 is a penetrating oil, and while it does not work great, it does work and its better then nothing. I can try the impact wrench, however first I have to stop some place and find one. Seem's that maybe the best option.

I am not sure exactly what you mean by removing the caps however I think I know.. If I run across that I will have some paint remover handy just in case. Thanks for the tip.

Lord, this could be a complete disaster, maybe I will see if I can find a step by step guide on it some place. Carb rebuilds make me very nervous.

I will take a Video of the gas coming out and post it once my wife and kid are back from the beach.

Wish me luck guys.. (Any one in Kenosha County feel like stopping by to help there is steak and beer in it for ya!!!)

Scott..

I never rebuilt a carb in my life . Untill I got the GS1000. The site has directions and good pictures. If you hit a snag just ask on the site here. Hearing it explained makes it sound harder than the hands on work is. Even shimming the needles is not a big deal. A guy asked me once, do you know how to change the plug wires on a 12 cylinder airplane engine. I said, that sounds complicated. He said, "One At a Time Son" can't go wrong.

[zaipai]

auto zone has PB Blaster

No autozone around here. Nearest one is over 1/2 hour away. I will try the impact wrench first. Our Bumper to Bumper does not have PB blaster.. sigh.. its what happens when you live in the sticks..
Sure hope your right Mike10.. I will start and see what happens, tho I am going to take lots of pictures along the way for when I have to reassemble.

Next question, what is a good product to dip the parts in, I have a bucket, i just need some thing that is going to do a good job cleaning the parts. Also I don't have a compressor so I am going to pickup some canned air and hope I can make due with that.

I did find some instructions, this forum and Cliffs site is amazing.. Sure hope its as easy is it seems.

Back in a bit..

Scott..

[ddaniels]

You can buy a gallon can of carb cleaner at AutoZone. If it's only a half hour away, I'd go there and get it. It comes with a dipping basket inside the can. Just put your parts in the basket and lower down inside the can and let it sit. I let things sit for 24 hours each load.

Don't be intimidated by this process. It's just a little patience and some reading and learning. You can do it. It's not rocket science. I have faith in you!

[landshark]

If you follow the instructions on basscliffs site you shouldnt have too much trouble. They are easy to follow.

Just make sure to clean every nook and crannie on the carbs. You cant be too fastidious in this instance.
Do you have a compressor? You will be amazed how much sh1t can come out of a small port.

Good luck.

[zaipai]

If you follow the instructions on basscliffs site you shouldnt have too much trouble. They are easy to follow.

Just make sure to clean every nook and crannie on the carbs. You cant be too fastidious in this instance.
Do you have a compressor? You will be amazed how much sh1t can come out of a small port.

Good luck.

Will do, I don't have a compressor, however I have a can of compressed air, it will have to do for the moment. I was not able to get to the auto place before they closed so going to go try it again Saturday morning.

Here is what is happening.. Video of the problem.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e6Pq2X6RFBI

I think its the float level, because no matter what, the gas comes out at the same rate all the time. Not sure tho..

[ddaniels]

Yep, you're float valves are stuck open. Either that or worn so badly that they don't seat anymore. That's the only thing that could be causing the gas to run out like that. The floats are supposed to go up so far, then shut the valve closed so the bowls don't over fill. Or, maybe your floats are way out of adjustment and are not shutting them off. Basscliff's site tells you how to measure the float height. So does the manual. I'd recommend getting new float valve needles. They're not very expensive. Check Z1 Enterprises.

[landshark]

When it comes to soaking-
I think you guys have some good over the counter carby cleaner over there, but we dont. I used methylated spirits mixed 50/50 with petrol, an old mechanic told me about it and it worked well.
I've got photos somewhere, but i cant find em.

[zaipai]

Yep, you're float valves are stuck open. Either that or worn so badly that they don't seat anymore. That's the only thing that could be causing the gas to run out like that. The floats are supposed to go up so far, then shut the valve closed so the bowls don't over fill. Or, maybe your floats are way out of adjustment and are not shutting them off. Basscliff's site tells you how to measure the float height. So does the manual. I'd recommend getting new float valve needles. They're not very expensive. Check Z1 Enterprises.

Thanks, I bet you are correct. I found and printed the instructions on how to measure and adjust the float height. I will also make sure the float valve needles are new. They came in the kit I picked up.

Once that is fixed and out of the way, next step is figure out some thing for a headlight bucket. I will troll e-bay today and see what I can get.

Thanks for that tip landshark. Gonna see what I can get at the store later.

Scott...