fuel injected turbo katana

Got some more done on the tacho today. Added the plate for the Yoshimura multimeter and cleaned up some contours. It is still rough, though it is almost there. Final touches and detailing before paint and polish.

These clocks are turning into a career for me.There was not enough room in to pod for the led wires to clear past the tach/speedo body so I had to figure out something else. I wanted to do a lower ring anyway so I hid the wires behind it. Today was real nice so I went for a long ride up the coast to clear some cobwebs out of my melon. Then, came home and tried to finish the clocks. Well, still don't have them complete. The backing ring took a while cuuuuuz! I had to machine it out of a solid piece. Then drilled and tapped some thread to afix it to the mounting bracket.
As you can see, I don't have the right size bolts but you get the idea. I still have to machine the lower ring to make room for all the wires for the speedo and tach. The wires you see in the pics are only the led wires. I may use a flashing red led for critical low and move the orange over to "head light on" indicator. That, or I need to find another color for it.

Didn't like the open back on the lower fuel light so I used a bar end plug. Just had to widdle it down slightly and cut a hole in the side for the wires. The light is weather proof but I think it looks cleaner that way.

Also, there is more contouring and clean up on the mounting bracket. I have decided to go with a combination of gloss and flat black paint, and polished aluminum for the final product.

Nice work Rob. I wish I had your skills.

Thanks all for the support and the good advise. But, nothing stopping them from pulling after you do have it all gooped. I have torqed up cam caps to spec, had to coil one and then next time two more go that were fine 15 minutes before.
Just can't trust 30 year old aluminum!!!!

I'm with Psyguy on this one, that work of art is too beautiful to cover in paint or powder, polish is the way to go.
I have been following this build quietly and it is really going to be an amazing bike when done, can't wait for more.

[gs58]

Yeah, I've been through this too. I needed to helicoilall but one preparing for assembly, and then at the first race meeting I had a small hydraulicing problem which found the weakest link. You are lucky to find it when you did. PS I also wrecked a piston and the sleeve so it had to come apart again anyway.

[psyguy]

After getting everything sorted and gooped with case cement, and put together, guess what happened? On the final torque of the main case bolts one stripped out. So apart she comes again, drill, helicoil, re-goop, rebolt and success... Yeeehhhhh, or almost. Three of the 6mm bolts let go this time. INcluding one of the deeeeep pocket ones that goes in from the top of the cases. Apart she comes again.

I've been through this, it was a royal PITA! But I've learnt the lesson the first time around. For the second attempt i put the cases together DRY and torqued all the bolts to spec and 10% more. A few gave way so I helicoiled them but at least I didn't have to un-goo all the surfaces for the second time... Good luck!

That sucks. Hopefully the next time is the last.

Had a great day today. Threw the engine together, that is almost. After getting everything sorted and gooped with case cement, and put together, guess what happened? On the final torque of the main case bolts one stripped out. So apart she comes again, drill, helicoil, re-goop, rebolt and success... Yeeehhhhh, or almost. Three of the 6mm bolts let go this time. INcluding one of the deeeeep pocket ones that goes in from the top of the cases. Apart she comes again.

[psyguy]

That thing is such a work of art i think it would be a shame to cover it in paint or powder. Polish and clear?

A buddy of mine gave me a fuel lamp indicator the other day.It is just what I needed for my low fuel warning light. With the system I am using (sv650 thermistor style low fuel warning) I apprently need an incondescent bulb to work with the thermistors. They don't seem to work with just resistors and led lights. So, I am working on a plan to use the incondescent for low fuel and a flashing led for critical low as the sv650 has duel thermistors.
The light my buddy so graciously gave me, is just rubber and plastic so I fabbed a housing for it to fit on the instrument panel. I still have some final contouring to do on the panel but it is very close now. I am waiting for a couple colored leds so I can finally have it all mocked up and then, figure out paint, powder, polish????

This bike looks amazing in person.The extra detail he has done..That gauge looks great.Can't wait to see it back from paint.

Saying that the instrument cluster is nice would be an understatement. Now THIS is some serious stuff .

I like, I like.... Please keep the updates coming .

katana on off head light switch

Here is a diagram of how I installed my on/off headlight switch for my 1982 suzuki katana. This can be made to work on most bikes if you are familiar with your wiring.

I started with a standard Bosh style 5 terminal relay. Terminals 85 and 86 are for the coil of the relay. When power is applied to the coil it will make a connection between terminal 30 and 87. Power (12vdc) is brought to terminal 30 via a hot lead from the wiring harness. In this case an orange with red tracer. Without this relay on a stock katana the wire going to terminal 30 would be plugged directly into the wire connected to terminal 87. The relay is only acting as a switch between these two wires. In simple terms you could run each of these wires directly to a switch and that would turn your head light on or of. I am using a relay so I can utilize a light to tell me the head light is off.

The Bosh style 5 terminal relays have a normally closed terminal which is 87a. What this means is, the power going to terminal 30 is connected to terminal 87a until the relay is switched on by the power to the coil. This flips the relay to connect the terminals 30 and 87. When the power is switched off to the relay it switches back to reconnect terminals 30 and 87a. This is where the warning light comes in.

When I turn on the key, and my head light is off, the indicator light will come on because the relay is not switched on. After the bike is running I throw the head light switch on and that activates the relay turning off the indicator light and turning on my head light. I am also using a relay because my head light switch has 18 or 20 gauge wire and I am concerned it is not heavy enough to handle the current needed for the head light. I am using a switch that is incorporated into my right hand control.

Wow, this has turned into lots of work. Picked up a piece of aluminum for the speedometer, tachometer mount. I will be machining off some of the ignition mount on the top triple since I am using a digital keyless ignition. It is in the way. I have the speedo mount roughed out and the rubber mounts done. I will be adding a bracket for the Yosh multimeter, and locating the set button for the clocks as well as installing an incondescent bulb for the low fuel light.
There seems to be a real problem getting the thing to work with an LED as the thermistor needs a current draw to help heat it up to allow current to flow, whereby turning on the light. So, I will use the incondescent bulb top right in conjunction with a second LED for critical low. This will be a flashing LED wired in parallel with the incondescent. At least that is the plan. I figure the regular bulb will cause curent to flow when the second thermistor is exposed to air which will in turn, turn on the led.
That leaves me with one extra light around my speedo, which I will be using for a head light off indicator. Since I am using a common bosh style relay for the head light, I can use the "normally on" contact to illuminate an LED showing me my head light is currently off. I can see myself forgetting to turn the thing one all the time which the police around here won't like, being daytime running lights are the law.