Starting GS750E Restoration

[Guest]

Before I get started with the restoration I think I should first make sure the engine is sound. From what I have read I should start with compression then onto the shims can anyone tell me what shims and where to buy. Next the carburetors and all that is connected to them. Electricle next coils points etc, does anyone have experience with Suzuki's OEM electronic ignition? Any other advice would be appreciated. Pictures to follow.

[spyug]

Welcome aboard. Abit more info would be helpfull as in year and model of bike we're restoring.

You are correct in wanting to make sure the "mill" is viable. How long has it been sitting? If its been parked for awhile you will want to make sure it turns over by hand first...carefully as if the rings are stuck forcing things can cause them to break......bad.

To turn it by hand, remove the right side engine cover (over the crank 4 little bolts). Take a 19mm socket and wrench and gently turn clock wise. Taking the plugs out first will make it easier.

If you can't turn it without undue pressure, the rings (or something else) is stuck and needs to be freed up first before anything else is attempted. Various fluids can be used but the favourite is acetone and ATF fluid in equalk amounts poured into the plug holes and left for a few days. You may need to repeat the process but usually it will loosen things up quite quickly.

Once the engine is "free" and turns without any clunking or grinding you can go ahead with firing it up. You should run it abit to loosen things up. then you can try your compression testing. There should be lots of info on that in the archives.

Don't be weirded out if compression looks too low. Once the engine starts to run abit it will likely come up.

After that its all downhill......I mean full steam ahead.

Do some research, read the tutorials and have at it sir!

Good luck and keep us posted. Oh yeah pics please.

cheers,
Spyug

PS Scots are we?

[HaggisHombre]

Hi it is a 1979 Suzuki GS 750E. It did not sit and it runs fine however twice I have started it and it was not firing on all cylinders other times all cylinders. Both times I noticed it was a different cylinder. It pops when it is on the choke if you give it some throttle but off the choke it runs fine when on all cylinders, other than that it feels a bit blah during acceleration. The reason I wont to refurbish is because there are little bits of rust here and there the wiring does not look that great etc.

[HaggisHombre]

Now that I have removed the air-box do the carburetors just slide out of the rubber boots that are attached to the engine?

[Lulu7404]

Yes, and after you tilt them back a bit and start them coming out the right side, don't forget to remove the choke and throttle cables. This may be tough, especially if the boots have hardened up a bit. Mine had some sort of sealant the PO used to seal them instead of replacing the boots. Had to get a blade screwdriver to persuade them off. Gently though so as not to gouge the carbs. If you haven't yet, look at BassCliff's carb cleaning guide. Excellent photo story.

[HaggisHombre]

Hi thanks Lulu7404 I got them off I am lucky I did not damage anything I did not realize that there was clamps holding the carbs to the manifolds doh! ha ha. Now all the gaskets are intact but look like the have shrunk so the no longer contact where they should I will check out the picture. Wow I have so many questions.

1. Theses seals were the reason I took the carbs off, is the carb rebuild hard and since I have them off should I do that I suspect the carbs are fine because the bike idled fine and worked ok I just suspected air leakage which I think I found since there seems to be carbon around one of the manifolds.

2. When I reassemble I am going to use pods any advice on that matter?

3. During the process of taking the carbs off also reveled a bad coil would you recommend going electronic ignition and what coils would be recommended.

4. Last question for now what is the preferred way to post pictures?

[Flyboy]

Welcome to the nut house, sounds like you have a bit of work ahead of you, but no matter, it is not that hard, and there is plenty of good advise and help right here, so don't be shy to ask, there are no dumb questions, we would rather help out than see another bike destroyed because the owner didn't ask questions.
Basscliff will be along in short order to give you your official Mega Welcome, it is packed with more GS information than you can digest in two life times, like the folks here say, he is scary.
You may want to go to your used control panel and post your location and put your bike year and model in your signature, that way, we don't have to keep asking, and you ever know who is near you, and can lend a hand, if need be.
Now, on to your questions.

1. Theses seals were the reason I took the carbs off, is the carb rebuild hard and since I have them off should I do that I suspect the carbs are fine because the bike idled fine and worked ok I just suspected air leakage which I think I found since there seems to be carbon around one of the manifolds.
No the rebuild is not hard at all, there are great step by step tutorials to walk you through it, so do not worry, it is quite fun really.
NO, your carbs are not fine, trust me on this, you need to tear them down and do a proper rebuild, which includes dipping them in carb cleaner and making sure they are spotless and replacing all the o-rings, which are available for a few bucks here from Robert Barr, here is his site www.cycleorings.com no need for fancy over priced carb kits from the dealers.
Also, remove your rubber boots that mount the carbs to the head, check them for cracks and leakage, there are rubber o-rings that seal between them and the head, REPLACE THEM, they are always a source of leaks and frustration, they are 30 years old after all.

2. When I reassemble I am going to use pods any advice on that matter?
I guess this is subjective, some like them, some don't.
They do make taking the carbs off a lot easier, but if you do them right the first time, how often are you goin to be taking them off after that?
Just know that if you do install pods, don't install the cheap Emgo ones, they are rubbish, go fr a good brand like K&N, and know that you will have to re-jet the carbs to suit.
This is a whole bunch of trail and error and plug chops.
Personally, I couldn't be bothered, I stick with the stock airbox,much easier and looks better to, but that is just me.
While we are here, if you do stick with the stock airbox, make sure it seals all over 100%airboxes that don't seal prperly also cause plenty headaches when it comes to tuning.

3. During the process of taking the carbs off also reveled a bad coil would you recommend going electronic ignition and what coils would be recommended.
Electronic ignition is always the way to go, isn't it, fuss and maitenence free, your best bet is the Dyna ignition with the green coils, everyone here recommends and raves about them.
Depending on budget, of course, otherwise a good second hand coil should not be hard to find here. look in the parts for sale section, or post for one in the parts wanted section.

4. Last question for now what is the preferred way to post pictures?
Open a photobucket account, if you on't already have one and post the pics there, then copy and paste the picture URL into your post here, easy as pie.
And yes, we like pictures, lots of them, so please post away.
Hope this helps.

P.S Check your valve clearances and do your shims, they are the most neglected item on these motors, and need to be right if the bike is to run properly and the engine is to give you many more miles of happy riding.

[HaggisHombre]

Thanks for the very helpful reply Flyboy, as far as the ignition goes do I need to go with the Dyna ignition or the Dyna ignition 2000?

Also I think I will get a set of intake boots.

Pictures coming soon.

[Flyboy]

Pleasure, thats what we do, not sure on the ignition, mine still has the stock Suzuki electronic ignition that has given me 30 years of trouble free motoring.
But someone in the know will be along shortly to answer that one for you.

[HaggisHombre]

So I have decided to strip it down and then paint the frame. Yesterday I ordered the electronic ignition coils wires and manifold boots.

Does anyone have any suggestions for aftermarket rear shocks?

Also the frame has some rust spots do you think I am going to far removing everything and painting it?

I am working on getting pics loaded to photo bucket.

[Flyboy]

Hey, good to see you off to a flying start, don't forget the o-rings that go with the boots.
I don't think it is too much to strip it to the frame to clea it up, after all, if you do it right the first time, then it will be good fo another 30 years. especially if you have rust spots, better take care of them once and for all than having them plauge you later on.
What are you doing to the frame, powder coat or paint?
I am busy stripping my frame to bare metal for painting, hopefully that will be finished today.
Can't wait for the pics.

[HaggisHombre]

Hi Flyboy, I am not sure but I think I will paint it myself to save money. Although I think powder coat would be nicer I paid $1000 for this bike and have already spent $500 in parts. My plan is to limit my parts to $1000 if possible. My next purchases will be rear shocks, K&N air filters valve shims, and possible a 4 into 1 exhaust depending on the condition of my 4 into 2.
In the end I would like a nice looking bike that runs and handles well. In addition to the frame I will have to clean up the engine I have been reading others post on how to do that, many say do not use blasting to clean it so I am not sure what to use. Also I do have the full rebuild kit for the carbs and the o rings for the carb manifold.
This is a fun project and I am really enjoying bringing this classic bike back to life. Any thoughts on engine cleaning, paint, exhaust etc, will be very welcome.

[Flyboy]

Ask six people and you will get six answers, I am going the paint route as well, also to save a few bucks, powder coating aint cheap here, and I could not be bothered with closing up all the holes and threads in the frame.
paint is also easier to touch up and repair, so t is easier to keep the bike looking good.
After all, Suzuki's paint was really not the greatest, and it has lasted for 30 years, so how bad can a modern paint be?

I must admit, iget the sh1ts every time I hear how cheap stuff is over there.
A grand would not even buy you the exhaust here, my new 4 into 1 is going to set me back 1500 bucks alone.

Engine cleaning is again, one ofthose things, ask twenty people, get twenty different answers.
Blasting is the best way to do it, as far as I am concerned, if you are not stripping your motor, just make 100% sure that every single hole is taped up, so nothing can get inside, then there is no problem.
Soda blasting is a good option, as it is soluble and a good spray with the hose pipe gets rid of all the soda left behind.
But that is just me, I am lazy, you could spend a day with a brush and Clean Green, it will work just as well, but to much like hard work.
As long as you gat all the dirt and oil off, use a good heat resistant primer and paint, it will all look the same at the end of the day.
I am partial to 4 into 1 exhausts rather than 4 into 2, again just personal preference, they sound sooooo much better.
I am going to be fitting a local pipe made here, called a Cowley, they really suit the GS perfectly.
But V&H, Kerker or Yoshi would be my choices if I had to get something else.

[HaggisHombre]

Cool I like everything you said and agree. At least there are two of us with the same answer ha ha. Working on the pictures right now.

[HaggisHombre]

Here are some pictures of the bike whole and after partial dismantle.

http://s1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc441/Haggishombre/1979%20GS750/