'78 gs750ec

[mike-s]

Perhaps consider trying something like this on the stub of steel left and then use vice grip pliers on the remaining stub to try and remove it.

Or alternatively, drill a pilot hole for the easy out as suggested by Nessim, get the easy out starting to grip in there, and then use this to cool the stub down to give yourself the maximum advantage you can give yourself. Also if you use an easy-out, make sure you use the largest one you can fit in there to minimise the chance of snapping the hardened steel tip off in there and really really screwing yourself over.

[allojohn]

It's the broken ez-outs that's common, not breaking the drill bits.

If you decide to drill it out make sure to center punch the bolt after you grind it down flat. Use a small drill bit at first and make sure you hit the center of the bolt. If you are off center, work the drill bit back and forth until you enlarge the hole into the center of the bolt. I can't stress this enough. You need to keep in the center. After a centered hole is achieved, move up one bit size and keep drilling. Typically the broken bolt will spin free at some point if you use LH bits. Please take your time with this task. Many members here botch the job and trash the head.

Perhaps consider trying something like this on the stub of steel left and then use vice grip pliers on the remaining stub to try and remove it.

Or alternatively, drill a pilot hole for the easy out as suggested by Nessim, get the easy out starting to grip in there, and then use this to cool the stub down to give yourself the maximum advantage you can give yourself. Also if you use an easy-out, make sure you use the largest one you can fit in there to minimise the chance of snapping the hardened steel tip off in there and really really screwing yourself over.

Great ideas guys, heating / freezing, I'm feeling more confident this is going to work out and I have a backup plan with LH drill bits.

[Nessism]

Or alternatively, drill a pilot hole for the easy out as suggested by Nessim, get the easy out starting to grip in there, and then use this to cool the stub down to give yourself the maximum advantage you can give yourself. Also if you use an easy-out, make sure you use the largest one you can fit in there to minimise the chance of snapping the hardened steel tip off in there and really really screwing yourself over.

Just to make myself clear, I do NOT recommend using an easy-out. I suggest use of LH drill bits and progressively steping up the size until the bolt is cleared out. If necessary, a tap can be used to do the final clean up.

Easy-outs love to break off, and then they are almost impossible to drill out. Best to stay clear of them entirely unless you are highly skilled in their use.

[allojohn]

10-4 Ed, received and understood. After heating and freezing I will use LH drill bits and move progressively larger to clear out the thread. Hopefully the remnants will unscrew while drilling, if not I will tap out the remainder.

[Big T]

I had been considering upgrading to Works fork springs and shocks but a lot of people on here seem to favor Progressive. More research required....

Works are excellent - most members here are too cheap for that upgrade

[allojohn]

Works are excellent - most members here are too cheap for that upgrade

Ha! that's a bit harsh, LOL!

[Nessism]

Ha! that's a bit harsh, LOL!

It's true! GSR folks are CHEAP! Me too (sometimes).

Progressive front springs are tried and true. If those Works springs cost more I'd question the value.

[mike-s]

Just to make myself clear, I do NOT recommend using an easy-out. I suggest use of LH drill bits and progressively steping up the size until the bolt is cleared out. If necessary, a tap can be used to do the final clean up.

Easy-outs love to break off, and then they are almost impossible to drill out. Best to stay clear of them entirely unless you are highly skilled in their use.

That's fair enough, hence why i said if you HAVE to use them, use the largest possible diameter one you can fit in there. and given the size of the bolt that's stuck, you can get a pretty big (and consequently strong) easy-out in there. Also i agree, the centering bit is very important regardless of what method is adopted.

I have to admit though, the left hand drill bits is a clever idea. He may find that a combination of LH drillbits & the freeze & release is enough to get that bolt stub out.

[allojohn]

Been looking at the All Balls steering head conversion and I need some clarification. It appears to need an alteration on the steering stem which would require a machine shop. What exactly is this alteration?

[allojohn]

Been looking at the All Balls steering head conversion and I need some clarification. It appears to need an alteration on the steering stem which would require a machine shop. What exactly is this alteration?

Judging by the lack of posts elsewhere regarding this modification and the zero response to my question I will assume this is an unnecessary modification and stick with the loose balls!

The balls and the races looked perfect and were well greased when I took them out anyway.

[Rudeman]

It's true! GSR folks are CHEAP! Me too (sometimes).

Progressive front springs are tried and true. If those Works springs cost more I'd question the value.

Ikons are solid and perform well. They cost quite a bit less than the works shocks.

Judging by the lack of posts elsewhere regarding this modification and the zero response to my question I will assume this is an unnecessary modification and stick with the loose balls!

The balls and the races looked perfect and were well greased when I took them out anyway.

Not familiar with the All Balls conversion. If you have thesteering assembly apart you may consider a tapered roller bearing conversion. They last forever even under severe service.

[allojohn]

Thanks Rudy, I'll take a look at the Ikons.

On the steering bearing question I found the mod to fit tapered bearings info on the All Balls site, this is it.



On pre '79 models an undercut must be added below the upper bearing. Of all the retailers offering this kit, Z1 is the only one which mentions this.

[allojohn]

Had to beat the crap out of the fork seals to get them out. The replacement lower left leg arrived courtesy of AJ in Florida. And both inner legs were spotless, free of any chips, dings or rust. Ready give everything a good clean and insert the new seals.

[allojohn]

Ikons are solid and perform well. They cost quite a bit less than the works shocks.



Not familiar with the All Balls conversion. If you have the steering assembly apart you may consider a tapered roller bearing conversion. They last forever even under severe service.

Thanks again Rudy, I thought the All Balls kit was the only one available for the '78 but after you posted I kept searching and found a tapered bearing kit from Sudco that will drop right in.

[allojohn]

For those novice wrenches, like me, do yourself a favor and buy a seal puller for removing fork oil seals. I bought one, after I had removed two seals by brute force, because I needed the washer that sits under the seal from a third lower leg I had. It came out just like that and I wish I had bought the damned tool for the first two. Doh!