De-stinking Penelope

[rustybronco]

Time to revive this thread.

I received a package from a certain member who shall remain nameless (Nessism).
Will try to update this thread at least once a week.

Package... NOS rear fender.

[dorkburger]

Cool, I was recently wondering what the status of this project was.

[bccap]

Geez Dale..... I ain't getting any younger here !!!

[rustybronco]

You and me both. I'm staring 63 in the face.

[Guest]

Which will finish first... this or my Kat?

Hint... my Kat is supposed to be finished in a couple of months... good joke that!!!

Keen to see her done and dusted Dale!

[rustybronco]

Vapor blasting? Clean it by hand? Dunno at this point. Damn mess it is. Onward she goes.

Exhaust valve guides feel ok. Intakes feel a little loose. I'll measure them when I get it all cleaned up.

[Nessism]

Degrease and soda blast would work. Vapor blasting would be better but it will cost you. You are going to be painting anyway so a perfect raw finish isn't important.

[chuck hahn]

Dale..for what its worth i got a suggestion from the KZ forum some time ago about using Eagle One Mag Wheel cleaner ( be sure it says ETCHING on the front label ) for dissolving the oxidation. I was gonna be painting the jugs anyway so thought why not. Got a bottle at Orielleys and sprayed it on. It has 3 different acids in it and it started making white foam almost instantly.

Got the Hemostats and some 00 steel wool to go in and out of the fins and it was corrosion free in maybe 45 minutes or so. I would imagine it would do well for your stuff as well.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/eagle-one-etching-mag-wheel-cleaner-spray-23-oz.-836604/7030000-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=7030000-P&iv_=__iv_p_1_a_810678608_g_40371513285_w_pla-297833444615_h_9026224_ii__d_c_v__n_g_x_pla_y_6201684_f_online_o_7030000-P_z_US_i_en_j_297833444615_s__vi__&utm_source=ACQ&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA&utm_content=shoppingcampaigns&gclid=CjwKEAjw_6XIBRCisIGIrJeQ93oSJAA2cNtMuBs75XCOBRBuMyx0o7pbscQVduaP4qC69g-ZYTYbrhoCDgXw_wcB#

[rustybronco]

Chuck, I used a boat load if red scotch brites on the cases. I'll set to removing the broken stud and cleaning up the ports
and combustion chambers then decide what to do with the exterior.

[chuck hahn]

Side note..if the carb float bowls and bodies have that white scale to them, the wheel cleaner and a tooth brush take quick care of that too.

[Fjbj40]

Glass beading to remove all that oxidation and carbon. It will be effective without removing any base material or causing damage. Then if you are going to paint follow up with a quick light blasting with aluminum oxide, this will provide a good surface for the paint to adhere.

From what I have seen and read about vapor blasting it is not the way you want to go if you are going to paint, way to smooth a surface for paint adhesion.

Glass bead is not a good surface to get paint to stick. Using a steel wire wheel or steel wool will cause dissimilar metal corrosion, not effective. Maybe a brass wheel and brass wool or copper or aluminum wool if you want to go that route.

All your work looks top notch by the way, great job and keep it up!

Cheers

[Nessism]

Glass bead or aluminum oxide grit is nasty stuff if any of it gets into the blind oil passages of the head. That's why I think soda is better for that application.

[rustybronco]

My intent is to place a wooden board on the head surface and a cheap valve cover over the upper portion.
Right now the thought rolling around my head is using Walnut shells.

From what I have seen and read about vapor blasting it is not the way you want to go if you are going to paint, way to smooth a surface for paint adhesion.

Followed up with Phosphoric acid. I still may do that with the cylinders. Trouble is finding someone to do the work who you trust. (That and a gracious application of wood to protect the surfaces you don't need hit with the slurry.

Next step is getting case bolts in better shape than what I have. (Yes Ed, I still have the plating materials you sent me.)

[Fjbj40]

Glass bead or aluminum oxide grit is nasty stuff if any of it gets into the blind oil passages of the head. That's why I think soda is better for that application.

Yes you are correct! After I blast I put them through the sonic cleaner, blast with air, wash in tank with many blasts of water, sonic clean again then air blast, bake for 2-3 hrs at 300 then air blast again. No problems yet following that process. Trick is to plug the oil galleries to reduce the infiltratration of media and there is no need to point the nozzle in that area anyways.

[Guest]

bump......