cam and timing

[elsabella]

Can anyone tell me is it difficult to set up the timing and cam? I just replaced a piston and a head and now getting ready to set up the rest. Waiting for my shop manual to come befor i do anything. Just wanted to know if anyone had any tips?

[Guest]

Model and year would help greatly.

[elsabella]

1977 gs750

[Guest]

On the exhaust there is a #1 and #2 stamped on the chain sprocket.
With the crank set at TDC on the #1 and #4 cylinders pull the chain up tight from the front of the motor and get the #1 to line up with the surface of the head.
You'll have to find out the number of pins on the chain from #2 on the exhaust to the #3 on the intake cam sprocket and count the pins over the arrows.
On mine it's twenty pins. NOT links but the pins on the links.

[Nessism]

If you search out basscliff's web site you can download the factory service manual for free. Much better resource than aftermarket manuals which are filled with questionable information.

[elsabella]

So i follow the manual to a t and the bike still wont start, its blowing fuel out the first carb. The carb does have good sucktion though. So i moved the setting from 20 to 21 on the chain and still having the same problem. clearance is good valves and the timing is correct to. What am i missing? It wont even attempt to start.

[Guest]

Do you have spark?
21 pins on the cam chain? Why?
Do you have compression?

[elsabella]

plenty of spark and compression, i went 21 cause i thought i number 3 was not at the top like number 2. try over and over with the twenty spot and it looked off by one

[Flyboy]

clearance is good valves and the timing is correct to

Sorry man, timing is not correct, its 20 pins, not 21, if they won't line up at 20, something else is out, you need to sort that first.
Do a quick search here for Flaming Chainsaw's thread on his 1100 timing, different bike, same procedure.
You will find lots of good gen in there.

Never mind, here it is http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=179437

[Guest]

plenty of spark and compression, i went 21 cause i thought i number 3 was not at the top like number 2. try over and over with the twenty spot and it looked off by one

I don't know what this means.

[elsabella]

Okay, after some rechecking and rechecking and re-doing, the problem is the tappets are to large. The feeler gauge does not even fit through. Now some tappets are not marked and some are marked 2.85. how do i know which tappets to get?

[Guest]

Those are called shims.
You replace the shims to get the proper clearance.
Contact the member "Steve" and he will help you out.

[elsabella]

where is a good place to buy them at a good price?

[Guest]

Sometimes there is a local Suzuki shop that will trade them.
Do a search for a "shim club" on this site.

[Steve]

... i went 21 cause i thought i number 3 was not at the top like number 2. try over and over with the twenty spot and it looked off by one

You don't go by the way it "looks", you go by the number of pins between the marks.

Hope you have not damaged any valves.

I don't know what this means.

I do. It means that he was not following instructions.

Okay, after some rechecking and rechecking and re-doing, the problem is the tappets are to large. The feeler gauge does not even fit through. Now some tappets are not marked and some are marked 2.85. how do i know which tappets to get?

As Chef mentioned, those are "shims". Can you rotate the bucket with the cam lobe pointing away from the valve? If so, you might be able to drop just one shim size (they go in .05mm increments). If it's still tight, you may have to go two or more sizes. Best way to know for sure is to get one shim that is probably four sizes to small, put it in, measure the excess clearance, and calculate what you need from there. Put one of your tight shims back in there before moving the crank, then move your "checking" shim to the next location and repeat the process.

Contact the member "Steve" and he will help you out.

Here, I'll make it easy for you. Read my sig.

where is a good place to buy them at a good price?

As mentioned, some dealers will swap shims with you. Some will do it for free, others will charge a modest amount, others will only sell you a new shim for about $15.
GSR member GhostGS1 runs the "shim club" here, contact him for details on how it works.
If you want to build your own collection of shims, the cheapest place that we know of is Z1 Enterprises. They just went up to $5.62 per shim, qhite reasonable, compared to $15.

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