Chucks Skunk #2 Project

[Guest]

So Chuck did you get my PM for this NOS Case emblem cover?
Hope you were the one to get it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390347846414&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

[chuck hahn]

Saw it but its the wrong one.

[rustybronco]

It wasn't wrong.

Steve, I hemmed and hawed around with the idea of buying it but in the end said there were other things I needed to buy first.

[chuck hahn]

I just went and relooked..I stand corrected. For whatever reason i had my brain stuck on the points cover one thats harder to find. Like the one in the picture above that i just polished out.

[Loki]

Polishing looks super nice Chuck. I've been using Nuvite Nushine II after 400 and 800 sanding but my can is almost gone so I may try the Busch's - I like your process and your results with the black magic rouge followed by it

How has that Wizards power seal worked for you? I used Ever clear on the 550 and it lasted ok, not resistant to solvents or gas though and its wicked expensive.

[chuck hahn]

The power seal hasnt been topped by anything ive found in the many many years ive been into bikes. The thing to do is put it on heavy and rub it into the raw aluminum as soon as you get it polished. aluminum is very porous and the rubbing will squish it in deep. You wanna literally rub it in till it disapperas and then let it dry good. Once its dry, then a clean rag to rebuff to the original shine and its done. I do the covers each spring to refresh it and they look like day one still.

[Loki]

The power seal hasnt been topped by anything ive found in the many many years ive been into bikes. The thing to do is put it on heavy and rub it into the raw aluminum as soon as you get it polished. aluminum is very porous and the rubbing will squish it in deep. You wanna literally rub it in till it disapperas and then let it dry good. Once its dry, then a clean rag to rebuff to the original shine and its done. I do the covers each spring to refresh it and they look like day one still.

Sounds good. I've experimented with different clear coats but they always seem to take away some of the shine which bugs me. And if you get any damage to it not good. The everclear did ok in that department but its not durable at all and 20 bucks for a small bottle.

[chuck hahn]

And the clear will eventually turn yellow and chip from road debris and in 5 years you gotta strip it all and do it all over..that just seems rather dumb to me..but thats just me,.

[Guest]

It wasn't wrong.

Steve, I hemmed and hawed around with the idea of buying it but in the end said there were other things I needed to buy first.

You know, I could swear it was the right one, but Chuck said it was wrong. So..................... I did some checking. It did sell for $20 instead of the $25 he was originally asking for.

First of all it's a stator cover. For the '78,'79 model it's part no. 68233-45000, which is no longer available.
So, I checked for a '80 and found part number 68233-45200 for $10.80, which is now the replacement part for the one shown on e-bay, 68233-45100 (superceded).
Now the "newer" revised part numbers for the '80 are still available through Boulevard Suzuki, 68233-45200 for $10.80 for the stator cover and 68235-45200 for $13.51 for the ignition cover.

Now, looking hard, very hard at that pic of the one on E-bay, it's very hard for me to tell what the difference is from the '79 I have, unless the color is different, like black and gold, instead of silver and gold.

But I did find this on E-bay, and although the part number is not real clear, it does look like the newest part number for the ignition cover, 68235-45200 for $13.51 at Boulevard Suzuki.
Actually I think it looks pretty good, although it would stand out because I know it's not the right or original one.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/suzuki-RIGHT-emblem-badge-gs750-gs850-gs1000-gs1100-gs-/390348128119?pt-Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5ae28fb77

[chuck hahn]

This afternoon I decided I wasnt satisfied with the way the swingarm looked so i stripped it and resanded it by hand and repainted it. Just had some rough looking spoats that i couldnt accept. Hand sanded it as smooth as i could and reshot it. I am much more pleased now.

[chuck hahn]

Also picked up another can of the VHT so I could finish the engine...

[rustybronco]

This afternoon I decided I wasnt satisfied with the way the swingarm looked so i stripped it and resanded it by hand and repainted it. Just had some rough looking spoats that i couldnt accept. Hand sanded it as smooth as i could and reshot it. I am much more pleased now.

Chuck, when I come down there I'm going to teach you how to use a paint gun. might as well move on to the next stage and start you using 2K paints on your rebuilds.

you still have that gun I gave you?

[chuck hahn]

Yup..I think I can master the gun no problems..its the mixing of the paint and hardners and reducers etc etc etc I need to learn. The technical aspects of mixing so to speak. Yes , the guns out in the box of spray paints and cleaners..I know right where its at.

[Frank Z.]

As usual... AMAZING work, Chuck!

[Guest]

Yup..I think I can master the gun no problems..its the mixing of the paint and hardners and reducers etc etc etc I need to learn. The technical aspects of mixing so to speak. Yes , the guns out in the box of spray paints and cleaners..I know right where its at.

Chuck, if you buy your paint at a reputable dealer the paint kit comes with recommended mixture instructions.
You can also buy a bunch of mix/measurement cups from the same dealer.
I always use fisheye preventer and a disposable inline moisture catcher(?).
An inline(at the base of the gun) pressure valve is also a good thing.

Its way easy!