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mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.) -
Other than the "S" tank Suzuki made a reprodution run of tanks in the early 90's to saticefy the demand for replacements due to the rusting problem. They made the smoothe side available in several paint schemes for around $500 but the 78E tank with screw holes came only in primer for about $600. They were special order only direct from Japan. These newer tanks were made better and won't rust up like the originals. A rare find indeed, and like new!Last edited by Guest; 11-16-2011, 02:16 PM.Comment
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The early E rims had too small a hole to fit a tubless valve stem, (you can get ones now that fit), so the trick was to cut the stem out of the tube and seal it with silicone sealer to the inside of the rim. We'll see what this guy did.
Most of those rims would hold air for tubless use but Suzuki had a problem with casting pourosity and designated them as tube type. I had a blowout in a remote part of Nevada and the tube was not repairable and I couldn't get a replacement. so I patched the tire and cut the valve stem out and silconed it in and it heald air just fine. So I left it like that through several sets of tires until the late 80's when I could get a steel valve stem that would fit.Comment
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Didn't get too much done on it today.
Added acid to the dead battery and trickle charged it all day.
I cleaned/painted the new rotors and calipers. Sanded and painted the new ES handlebar.
Found a pair of Progressive suspension front fork springs for it in my stash.
Cleaned out the front forks and installed new seals.
Replaced the rear shocks with '83 GS1100E shocks and correct top acorn nuts.
Added the missing L shaped rubbers to secure the side covers.
Found the correct fuel tank rear mounts from my stash.
That's it for today. Pic's tomorrow.
DanielLast edited by Guest; 11-16-2011, 10:45 PM.Comment
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Cool! Nice find, Daniel. Subscribed!Comment
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Concentrated on finishing the front end today.
Made the 1.2" spacers for the progressive springs and filled with 12.5 Wt. fork oil.
Re-built and greased the speedo drive.
Repacked the front wheel bearings with synthetic grease.
Re-painted the '80-up slotted rotors and milled out the record scratches to give them a new surface for the new pads to seat into.
Smeared some white grease on the brake surface before painting.
One example of what I started with:
After paint and resurfacing:
Old brakes and rotors:
Upgraded '83 Katana brakes with new GG rated EBC pads and surfaced rotors:
Vastly improved front brakes using stock parts and no expensive parts from other manufacturers bikes and adapters. Simple.
DanielComment
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I'm using that same front brake setup on my S, with great results...it's not like twin pistons, but alot better than the original stuff. Good job.Comment
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Replaced the PO's bolts to secure the seat:
Installed the seat that I planned to use on the Cooley on it (for now) with the correct factory pins:
Installed the 1100ES handle bar and took her out for a couple of pic's.
She looks darker in these pic's than she is.
I still need to do the rear brakes, change the oil/filter, change headlight/ears,
turn signals, tank badges, mirrors and install the chainguard:
Put a couple of gallons of gas and 8 ounces of Berryman's B-12 in it.
Replaced the hard as rock fuel line and filter with new hose and clamps.
The PO already had a couple of extra grounds added and a different rectifier in it.
I still added a clean 12ga. ground.
With the battery borrowed from Goldy, I tried to start it.
Still need to fine tune the carbs and replace intake manifold O-rings, etc.
Here goes nothing! .....
Valve adjustment and all of the usual electrical clean ups still on the to do list also.
She is at least getting there. And RUNS!
DanielLast edited by Guest; 11-18-2011, 08:15 PM.Comment
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Pulled the plugs and saw no surprise:
They all looked just as good.
I cleaned them up, gapped them to .028 and tried it again. Runs a little better.
I will have to give the carbs the full treatment as it obviously hasn't been running right for the PO.
DanielComment
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Update.
The carbs are 33 CR Special smooth bores. Probably WAY too much for this stock motor.
I will either sell them or use them on an 1166-1261 4-valve motor.
Intake manifolds were all finger tight except for this one that thought about giving me trouble.
As it was already partially stripped head, I just beat this into the screw and it also fell out.
Some of the air leak, besides the manifolds being loose, could have something to do with this:
RobertBarr and Cycle O-rings to the rescue!
Going to pull the cam cover and see if it even has after market cams to justify these carbs or not.
And adjust the valves, of course.
DanielComment
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Movin' right along Daniel, you're making real quick progress on this and you'll be done in no time
I reckon you could be onto something with those O rings...
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Measured a couple of cams and they are stock and within acceptable range:
Not going to waste these CR carbs on a stock factory motor!
Adjusted all of the valves using the factory tool and they are now all within range.
Ready to button up after re-torqueing the cylinder studs.
I am going to replace the carbs with a set of 32CV carbs that I already set up for a GS1000.
They fit the stock 28mm stock carb. intake ports.
DanielComment
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That tank info might explain why I have what everyone insists is a '80 tank with a levered petcock on my '79. A conversation about it is on page 2 of this thread. http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=176796 Getting ready to do the same brake swap on mine. Have '82 discs, calipers, and m/cs coming, along with the aluminum swingarm. Any tips or warnings are welcome.Comment
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