first time top-end rebuild '82 GS850

[jace09]

Ok, so i finally got to the point where i can start on my winter project. I am lucky enough to have a patio at my appartment that fits my GS, and i have a desk and chair to get all of this done. Now i have to get a tarp to cover the area for when it rains, since i live in Oregon, it will happen a lot.



So after I took off the seat and pulled the battery i found this. The long tube goes up to the gas float assembly and the small one comes up from the bottom of the bike somwhere. Neither where hooked up to anything. I did have two hoses from the petcock that went in the the carb. but i am curious what these are. Oh and the yellow wire are not hooked up to anything either.


Then on the otherside of the bike i found this little guy, just hanging out, not connected to anything and barely hanging on to the frame



I know nuts and bolts, gaskets and such but wiring and hosing is a short fall in my knowledge. So if anyone could tell me what these things do I can figure it out from there.

Thanks! I will work on the pics and get them bigger in the posts
Kimo

[loud et]

the small tube is probably your battery drain tube....keeps overfloewd acid off your bike and drains it to the ground. the larger is probable a cab vent tube. on cliffs site or the gsr homepage there is a section called "where do these hoses go?" check that out
the yellow wire coul be for your fuel guage. it may have a black with white stripe near it . both go to the fuel tank wires.
i would go to wal mart and for a hundred bucks you can get a pop up awning/canopy thingy. it may even have sides that roll down.
sorry i could not help more.
get inside that service manual w/wiring diagram.....i am not great with wiring diagrams yet either, but they answer lots of basic questions.

[Good Times]

Ok, so from the looks of it you have and 82 850G. Great bike. I have a GL in the same year model.

My advice:

1) Get a Service/Shop manual. I bought one with the color wiring diagrams off ebay. You can also download a manual from basscliff's site.

2) Spend some time on BassCliff's site. It is a wealth of information. http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

3) Upload larger pictures. It's easier to see what you are asking about.

The tubing you referred to should go to the carbs. There may be one tube that was to your battery as well. The yellow wires I believe go to the tank gauge and connect under the tank there. The connector in your hand I think goes to your gauges. Specifically the gear indicator. I could be wrong, I don't have my manual in front of me.

A manual will help you a great deal, but keep posting questions about your build here as well. We're always willing to help out.

Great bike. Can't wait to see the final product!

[jace09]

GT, i have been following your thread on the rebuild of your 850. Accually, it was your thread that got me to this point! I though hell, i can do that!! Thank you for the insparation.

I am learning a lot, and taking good photos is one. That will be corrected with the next set for sure.

I have been around this site for a few and BassCliff's how to's are a god send! Just ordered the O-ring set for a carb rebuild, you find me at my desk with a mess of carbs and BassCliff's 71 page step by step on my computer.

Thanks for the info, the wiring makes sense since I still have an 1/8 of tank of gas with the tank removed. Course i have had an 1/8 tank the whole time. Question answered!!!

BTW spelling is not my friend, and the spell check is not a friend with the work computer.

[loud et]

It makes us all really happy here when a new forum member is actually doing a full and proper carb dip/rebuild with new o rings!
most runnability issues stem from fuel system issues. kudos on getting started right!
hundreds of questions are asked here daily on why the persons bike wont run....and they have not/wont admit they have not done a full teardown/dip of those cruddy old things.
cart before the horse syndrome.(i am new too....these guys here will help you out till no end if one is willing to do whats proven/suggested)

[jace09]

Well considering i have leaks at the cam cover AND head gasket I will be going down that deep. It was also brought to my attention that once i take off the head bolts, the base gasket will be unsealed. Soooo, i will be replaceing that too. Since i have to pull the head off to do that i may as well hone the head and replace the piston rings ect. ect. ect.

It was best said on the other thread i started "in for a penny, in for a pound."

So i am starting at the top, and working my way down. I have the air box, and carbs pulled. So i will go through those first, then tackle the cam cover. Of course fixing things as i go i.e gas gage wiring hoses ect.

As far as spelling goes, we can't conquer everything

[Good Times]

Glad to hear that my process has helped inspire you. Just keep at it and when you get frustrated take a break and walk away for a little bit. Come at it fresh and things will make much more sense.

Don't worry about the spelling. Hukt on foniks werked fer most uv us!

[jace09]

OK, first this is picture heavy, and boy did i learn a lot about the air box today. Gonna have to weight my options on getting a whole new one or try to fix/replace the pieces.

I started to remove the side pieces and found the weather stripping was a joke. It might be possible that it is older then the bike itself.


When i removed the boots, this is what i found in the far left (when sitting on the bike, #1?) looked like inside.


Even the rubber piece for the top bracket should be changed.


The snorkel is warped and breaking


The plastic top piece is warped where it connects with the lower metal section.


Also the top looks like it has been heated up a few times


This looks easy, though i doubt it is the right air filter


So with all this, should i try to replace all the warped/broken pieces, or just get a new air box?

This is the first part i have tackled, and i am guessing this is what the rest of the bike holds for me.

[jace09]

Did some looking on the net, and i am finding that the air box does not come in 2 pieces to buy. Luckily I have a bone yard locally to dig through and see if i can find the parts i need. Will be checking them out tomorrow.

[jace09]

ok working on my carbs and i got to the point where i need to know if i should get new float seats. From left to right i have carbs 1 2 3 4 sitting in front of me. The float seats for 1 and 4 were a beast to get out, you can see the corrosion around the o-ring. Seats 2 and 3 were easy to remove and i am less worried about those. Question is, on float seats 1 and 4 should i replace them because i scratched the outside when removing? Should i just 4 new ones? I did not bend or warp the seats, just scratched the outside.

Thanks!!

[Good Times]

If you've got new orings then you should be fine from what I can see.

[jace09]

OK good, i have the o-ring set so if i just need to clean up and change the rubber that makes me happy. Those copper housings are $50 each, geez this is going to get expensive if i don't watch it.

Thanks

[loud et]

Those scratches are nothing. Thats just where the little retainer clip holds down. Once you get your new o rings you will be in like Flynn. Whoever the hell that is. lol
You got your Berrymans.....right?

[gearhead13]

Make sure to remove the screens and o-rings before dipping. Where you want to have a close look at those is the taper on the needles to see if they are in decent shape. You can test the seal by holding the needle in the seat and trying to blow through with enough pressure but reasonable. They only have to hold back gravity fed fuel.

[Nessism]

Maybe replace the needles if the spring won't hold up the float under it's own weight or if there is a ring around the taper point, which there appears to be.

EDIT: You might want to make sure the seat didn't get crushed out of round by the pliers. Drop the needle back into the hole and make sure it slides up and down smoothly otherwise the seat should be replaced.