81 GS550T Full Rebuild...In Ohio

[cowboyup3371]

Yea sure can Tom as we're moving the bikes to another garage next weekend anyway. Plus, I'm still waiting on parts from Z1 (had to order sealing washers from Suzuki) and Partsnmore (needle seats).

I'll PM you my address.

[tkent02]

Scott, I probably have this piece if you can wait a few days.

[cowboyup3371]

So I slapped the carb boots on tonight with new orings and polished up the fork lowers - definitely looking much better. Started to put the tach drive back together but thought the threads looked pretty messed up on the outer piece (part number 14 below).



It explains why I needed a set of pliers anytime I connected my tach cable. It's still available but at $17 I'll try to make it work for awhile longer.

[cowboyup3371]

I tried looking through the entire thread and maybe I missed it but, who did the seat upholstery?

Cragers Auto Interiors off of Franklin close to Clyo here in Centerville. They did a wonderful job from the looks of it and I'm looking forward to seeing how well it works. I'll PM you their phone number.

I tried looking through the entire thread and maybe I missed it but, who did the seat upholstery?

[cowboyup3371]

No pictures tonight but I did get some work accomplished. I replaced the starter to solenoid cable with a new 8 gauge wire and connectors from OReillys. It was nice to have the same cable for $6 compared to the $40 OEM price. The old one was burnt enough at the connectors that I just figured I'd replace it since everything is looking nice.

I also picked up new screws for the clutch cover and installed it with a new gasket. I just have to remember I don't have any oil in the engine yet. Finally, I cleaned off and installed the cam chain tensioner which is seemingly working well. It took me a few times to get it right but I finally heard the pop you should hear when putting it in place. I tested it by rotating the engine and made sure the chain stayed tight. Once I get the new sealing washers for the oil pressure unit and install the tach drive, I'm done with the engine until I can do a valve adjustment.

Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to strip off paint from the tank, wheels, and brake calipers and start working on repainting them.

[cowboyup3371]

Although I've been cleaning carbs this past week, I didn't have a chance to make it over to work on the bike until yesterday. But after my youngest step-son's baseball game, I left everyone and put in a few hours or so.

First off, I torqued down all of my head bolts to 17.5 ft lbs (specs are 16.5 to 19.5) since my beam torque wrench only reads in 2.5 increments. I then replaced a couple of frame mounting bolts and applied blue threadlocker to all of those brackets. I'll still need to torque down the actual engine mounting bolts in the next few days or so.

Then came time to start working on the cams. I decided to remove the signal generator plate to find my timing mark but discovered there isn't one behind it to line up the T/F marks. Instead, Suzuki put it behind the top mounting screw head:



After taking this picture I saw I had the bracket misaligned too far to the left and readjusted it but it still shows where to look. I also realized this morning the line above the screw hole might also be the mark I needed but always thought it was just part of the casting. I don't understand why Suzuki did that nor why it's not better specified in the service manual but okay...

I then placed the exhaust cam in its spot. Although I got the 20 pins between cams, I did so incorrectly because of where i had the exhaust cam pointing. I would line it up correctly when I put it in but once I installed the intake it would pull it back to where you see it here. This would be fixed later after I questioned myself on how to install the cam caps as one side's cam cap wouldn't seat directly onto the holes and I thought I was doing it wrong.




After a couple of hours of staring, trying a couple of ideas and about at my point of frustration, I called Steve for assistance. Once he arrived, he fixed my exhaust cam by moving it one tooth in the chain. This is something I'd tried but every time I did it, it would move a lot more than just one. Essentially, I was moving it incorrectly to get the desired result and I should have just worked the cam differently. He then showed me how to put the caps in place by just tightening them down. For those who may read this, don't be fooled by the idea the cap must sit directly onto the pins before you put in place. The tightening of the cap will draw it down to where it is supposed to be. Had I just trusted myself and ignored the "misalignment", I would have been fine with that.

Here's how the cams now look:



I also installed my stator cover with a new decal but didn't get a picture of it yesterday. It looks nice but I could do a better job in the polishing department.

[cowboyup3371]

I was able to take a couple of hours this evening and get over to the garage. Things went fairly smoothly as best I could tell so far and I'm finally able to see an engine in my frame again. I first put a new gasket under the oil pressure switch but couldn't find the new screws I thought I bought for it so I'll need to run over to Ace Hardware this week for them. Then it was off to the engine.

I threw the front Cam Chain guide in first; it took some doing but it's sitting in there.



I realized later I had put it in too early so I redid it after putting the head on and it slid into place much easier.

I then set the number 1 and 4 pistons to TDC and put the new oring in the center groove and head gasket in place. Does the marking look correct to everyone?





Put the head on and placed the nuts on the studs barely even finger tight as I can still move them off. I didn't want to torque anything down yet until I could verify I did this right.





I didn't realize until tonight that the head had gotten as dirty as it did again. Using the air compressor, I blew away the big chunks but it looks like I need to grab a rag and wipe things down again.

Here you can see the marking for the number 1 piston through the spark plug hole



I didn't install the cams as I really needed the service manual and my previous pictures with me before doing much more but forgot the laptop. I'll be back to it later this week after my daughter's surgery.

Looking good!

Looks great, Scott. Almost makes me want to take my engine out and polish and paint the old girl. Almost.

Your outer cylinders don't need to be at TDC for head placement. Trying to do so can shift your cylinders, which is not a really big deal I suppose. Dunno, if I felt like I got all the O-rings seated right I'd probably not risk any disturbance. Anyway, you can get the head bolted on, without cams the valves will all be closed so no interference worries. After it's torqued down you can then put the cyls in position for cam installation.

[pete]

Good work Scott! She'll be together in no time now

[cowboyup3371]

Finally!!! I received a new base gasket on Monday and had some time to get to the garage tonight. We put it into place, coaxed the cylinders over the pistons, and VOILA, it's finally looking like an engine again. I didn't go much further than this though as it was pretty hot/humid but I'm a lot closer now finally

The cylinders are in place:



And a view from up top.



I was reminded I need to set 1 and 4 at TDC before I put the head on so hopefully I'll remember it when I finally get back out there again.

I know the oil pressure switch is off but I disturbed it the last time and bought a new oring. I just figured I'll have enough room to get it back in. I'll figure it out later though.

[cowboyup3371]

Today's Two Step

Although I repainted the engine Wednesday night, I hadn't had time to do any work for quite awhile lately. Fortunately today I had some time finally and met up with my friend early this morning. After cleaning up the two frame mounts in the bottom rear, we finally got the engine in place:



It took a little bit of doing but I slid all three engine mount bolts into place then realized the nuts I purchased were the wrong pitch. Ran back to Ace Hardware and they let me exchange them without charging me so at least they are set in place (not torqued). I also found the powder coater messed up on the holes on the right side mount so I'll have to pick up that tap and die set finally to fix it.

After spending some time at the house for other things, I went back to put the cylinders in place. I discovered the base gasket, a very flimsy gasket, needs to be in place before I put the orings down as it catches on them very easily. However, at least I got that on without much trouble.





I then started to ease the cylinders down onto two and three and fairly easily set them into place. However, as I would turn the engine to get one and four up, two and three fell out on me. After about four tries, a phone call, and my buddy coming back out to the garage, I realized I need to have the second and third pistons further up into the cylinders first before trying to slide one and four in. Just about the time I was finally ready to finish sliding the cylinders down into the crankcase I realized I forgot to put the cylinder orings on . Off came the cylinders to replace them. Of course, what's a day in the Baker garage without even more fun - the dang base gasket ripped on me right in the middle of the number three cylinder .

So, I'll order a new one on Friday from G&S as well as new acorn head nuts and a spacer I'll need.

[eil]

Bummer on the crankcase but hooray on the side covers! I'm seeing that that these rebuild projects always have both their ups and downs.

[cowboyup3371]

Unfortunately, the weld broke once I installed and tightened the sprocket cover against it this afternoon. So, we put some JB Weld on it, installed the sprocket cover to hold in place, and we'll let it sit until my friend can get it back for another welding job. Hopefully that will work but if not I'll just live without that bolt in place.

Also received the orings I forgot to order the first time and the rare breed of left hand side covers that I found on EBay last weekend. $13 and free shipping gave me a replacement for the cracked one I put slurry on last year. It also replaces the chrome cover I lost on a ride last year.