1980 GS1000S Reluctant Rebuild

[Kiwi Canuck]

Lock picking

I had a U Lock attached to my new "Boise Beauty" and the PO didn't have the key, so I taped it up so it didn't rattle too much when I rode it home.
Tonight I remembered it and dug out my tubular lock pick kit.

I purchased this kit about 25 years ago and it's been fantastic. Never met a U lock I could pick even the Kryptonite II models, some will open in 2-3 seconds, but usually 2-3 minutes was average for me back when I was an active locksmith technician.

Well it's been a while and the eyesight is not quite what it was, so I got the kit out lubed up the rubber O-rings as everything was dry and seized, and got to it. When it didn't open in the first few minutes I started to worry I'd lost my touch, but as it was locked to the rear turn signal, and it was in an awkward position I decided to remove the license plate to give better access.
Once I had good access I had the thing off in 30 seconds.
Man it feels good to be able to pick locks, very satisfying.

I recreated it on the bench so I could get some pictures.

Here's the U Lock and the Pick on the bench.



Here's the lock after I opened it for this demo.



Here's the pick with the slides still in position, so I can decode them and cut a key if I want one.



Here's the brand of Lock Pick I use, very expensive at the time but one of the best available.

[eddie21]

So, this explains why you're so picky! Nice to be able to get that off without any mess. That tube lock looks very similar to the lock that was installed on the HD Road King that I used to have. If so, just think of all the Harley's you could be riding using that picking skill!

[Kiwi Canuck]

So, this explains why you're so picky! Nice to be able to get that off without any mess. That tube lock looks very similar to the lock that was installed on the HD Road King that I used to have. If so, just think of all the Harley's you could be riding using that picking skill!

Eddie21, If I was going to use my lock picking skills to steal something, a HD would be the last thing I'd steal.

[bccap]

I hope that tool is not readily available on the open market seeing as I have a disk lock on each of my bikes....

[Kiwi Canuck]

Carbs are flooding

Well, I had tried to get the bike ready to ride out to Vintage in the Valley on Sunday.
When I started it on Saturday afternoon and was finalizing trouble shooting the wiring and making sure the stator was operating correctly, I noticed a pool of fuel on the ground and checked the carbs to see what was going on.
I realized I had a pretty good amount of fuel leaking, so I shut her down and grabbed rags to contain the fuel leak.

This is the first time that has happened (that I've noticed) and I have run her 4-5 times since the rebuild.

Seems #1 carb and at least one other was leaking fuel back into the airbox.

I have a new petcock and have the slot placed in the horizontal position as that's what the manual shows for the "ON" position. Is this correct?

When I cleaned the carbs originally I didn't set the float heights or the fuel level, so I will go over that next.
I also didn't pull the filters attached to the needle valve seats and when I took the first one apart very fine sand came out so that maybe a clue as to what the issue is.

I have the carbs back on the bench and will be a bit more thorough this time, as I have read a lot more about this topic and understand it better since my first attempt.
Problem was I was reading the info but not following it or absorbing it to be able to put it into practice.
I'm definitely better than before but carbs are not my strong suit and I must admit I feel a bit lost when I'm dealing with this part of the rebuild.
Hey I'm pretty good at removing and installing carbs on a GS1000 now.

When I inspected the Needle Valves with a magnifying glass, there is a tiny groove just perceptible to the finger nail around the tapered part, the manual shows a very worn one as needing replacement, but mine shows just a very fine grove just visible to the naked eye. Could this be an issue?

Anyways, I'll carry on with the cleaning and rebuild of the carbs and see what happens next time.

I have managed to borrow a Carb Sync tool from a local member here and will see if I can figure out how to work it as soon as I get them back together again.

At least I had my other Cooley to ride out to Vintage in the Valley on the weekend.
Great show, good to catch up our local group from BC Classic Motorcycle Club and with the guys from the Island and the interior of BC.
We had our own section where we parked inside so that was great, thanks to Stan from Hell or who-ever organized that.
Enjoyed meeting all the people interested in the Cooley and had a few offers to buy it. Crickey, I've only had it for a week.

BTW, the bike had very nice crisp throttle response off idle, much better than the new bike from Boise, and IIRC it warmed up much quicker and I was able to shut the choke off after a minute or so rather than 2-3 minutes I need with the Boise bike. No idea why the difference, but it's nice to be able to compare things and have a reference point to work to.

[Kiwi Canuck]

I hope that tool is not readily available on the open market seeing as I have a disk lock on each of my bikes....

It may not be easily available, but liquid nitrogen (or a can of compressed air for cleaning computer components) and a hammer is what the bad guys use to break these locks.
A couple of squirts and bamm, the lock explodes.

Here's the Myth Busters test of liquid nitrogen.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JC7gHeMJM3g

So rest easy Garth and get better, hopefully your bikes are still there when you get out of bed.

[azr]

You've got your petcock in the right position, yes. You really should check your float height on the carbs while you have them off the bike. I did this thread to show my way of doing it. You can also just use the correct size clear hose and file the end a bit so it fits into the float bowl drain hole nice and tight.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=209292

The reason your one bike is better on cold starts is because the valve have been shimmed properly. Your new bike probably needs a valve shim done and synch the carbs afterwards. As well you're probably going to want to clean the Boise carbs as some point as well.

[Kiwi Canuck]

Float Heights

You've got your petcock in the right position, yes. You really should check your float height on the carbs while you have them off the bike. I did this thread to show my way of doing it. You can also just use the correct size clear hose and file the end a bit so it fits into the float bowl drain hole nice and tight.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=209292

The reason your one bike is better on cold starts is because the valve have been shimmed properly. Your new bike probably needs a valve shim done and synch the carbs afterwards. As well you're probably going to want to clean the Boise carbs as some point as well.

Thanks Rob, I set the float heights very carefully at 22.4mm as per the manual, some were only about 19.5mm which required a big adjustment, as the tang was basically flat.
That's one of the reasons I didn't adjust them the first time because they were so far off and it looked stock, I figured I must have the wrong manual for my model of carbs. I will try it at this setting and see if it helps.

I have got them back on the bike already and will check the fuel height when I get a modified drain screw with a connection on it to attach some clear hose.
Hopefully I fixed the flooding carbs, which was the main issue.

Interestingly my carbs on the Boise bike have the recessed fuel mixture screw and the cap has been drilled out and removed.

The bike from Quebec has carbs that look like the ones in the GS1000T 1980 Service Supplement on BassCliff's Site, the screw is flush with the top of the carb and never had the cap on it.
Strange as they are made within a few weeks of each other, maybe the Boise bike was sold in California and required the mixture screws be tamper proofed back then. Is the carb housing different or is it a different mixture screw? Maybe when I pull the Boise carbs I will find out.

Any who, it's too late to start the bike up to test my work, so I'll get to test it on Wednesday when I get some time.

[althomas101]

BTW, the bike had very nice crisp throttle response off idle, much better than the new bike from Boise, and IIRC it warmed up much quicker and I was able to shut the choke off after a minute or so rather than 2-3 minutes I need with the Boise bike. No idea why the difference, but it's nice to be able to compare things and have a reference point to work to.

That is because the Boise bike is running lean, probably needs a carb cleaning.
Lean symptoms are slow to warm up, slow to return to idle, poor transition from idle to needle, popping on roll off, runs hot, white plugs or grey ash on the conductor.

Rich symptoms are popping during idle once warm, RPMs drop below idle then retun when you blip the throttle, gas smell in exhaust, stumbles on rev when idled for a while, black plugs.

You want your plugs to be slightly tan on the insulator, and brownish on the conductor. Also note that the deeper into the plug you look the higher in the fuel curve you are looking at, so at idle your settings will be on the conductor and tip of the plug, the needle will be the middle of the plug and the base of the insulator is WOT. Also WOT doesn't take but a few seconds to get a reading, at idle you will want to let the bike sit idling for a minute or two to get the plug color set. I hope that helps.

[Nessism]

Do I spy a set of stock ST exhaust pipes here? Nice find if so. Where did you get them, or did you mention this earlier in the thread and I just missed it?

[Kiwi Canuck]

That is because the Boise bike is running lean, probably needs a carb cleaning.
Lean symptoms are slow to warm up, slow to return to idle, poor transition from idle to needle, popping on roll off, runs hot, white plugs or grey ash on the conductor.

Rich symptoms are popping during idle once warm, RPMs drop below idle then retun when you blip the throttle, gas smell in exhaust, stumbles on rev when idled for a while, black plugs.

You want your plugs to be slightly tan on the insulator, and brownish on the conductor. Also note that the deeper into the plug you look the higher in the fuel curve you are looking at, so at idle your settings will be on the conductor and tip of the plug, the needle will be the middle of the plug and the base of the insulator is WOT. Also WOT doesn't take but a few seconds to get a reading, at idle you will want to let the bike sit idling for a minute or two to get the plug color set. I hope that helps.

Thanks for the info, it all helps me get my head around the carburation setup on these bikes.
I will be checking the Boise bike once the weather turns here or until I get the other bike road worthy, as I don't want to be without one to ride.

BTW I did ride my 2012 Vstrom the other day and it felt strange after not being on it for a few weeks, I love these old GS's.

[Kiwi Canuck]

Do I spy a set of stock ST exhaust pipes here? Nice find if so. Where did you get them, or did you mention this earlier in the thread and I just missed it?

Ed, Yes those are the original pipes, the bike came with a very beat up Kerker 4-1 and these pipes, taken off at about 500KM according to the PO.

They were stored in a garage and must have been exposed to moist air from time to time as a fine rust/dust came out the first 3-4 times I started the bike, but they seem in very good condition internally and externally.

[Kiwi Canuck]

More Progress

I finally got to test the bike last night, carbs are no longer flooding which is good news, the exhaust is still popping a bit, so I will need to get onto the carb sync and air fuel adjustment program.

Here are a couple of pictures that show the different air fuel mixture screw setup.

First, the Canadian Cooley



The Boise Beauty



I tested the stator and have about 75VAC on all three leads at about 5,000 RPM, which I believe is about right. I will need to get a fan and some help to hold the throttle to complete the electrical system testing as this is a bit tricky to perform by myself.
Just trying to figure out how to test the battery while the air box and filter are in place.
Just wondering if I should add test leads for testing battery voltages or run without the air box?
As it seems relatively easy to build a fuel reservoir bottle, I’ll see if I have the parts to build one or I may just buy one as I cannot do a carb sync without one, and putting the gas tank on and off risks damage each time it goes on or off, not to mention those fuel lines are a bit finicky to reconnect.

[Kiwi Canuck]

Need a New Tach Cable

I installed the old tach cable for testing as I didn't think it was too bad, just needed cleaning up.
Something didn't seem right so I pushed the cable out to check and found this.
Another roadside bodge job by the PO.

[Kiwi Canuck]

Caswell Tank Sealer Kit Arrived

I received the Caswell tank sealer kit yesterday, so I will get the tank ready to seal this weekend. I chose the clear as the inside of the tank looks pretty good now that it's been cleaned and I didn't think I needed a bright blue colour (or red) inside of my tank.

It's a 2 part system and apparently enough to do 2 tanks, so if anyone local to the Vancouver area needs the left overs let me know and I can get it to you.
I will let you know how the install it goes.