1980 GS1000S Reluctant Rebuild

[Kiwi Canuck]

FYI,
The regular GS1000 and 850 fenders are interchangeable. There are some very subtle differences inside if you compare them side by side looking at the bracing, but the exterior profile is identical and they bolt right up.

Splitting the cases isn't difficult and it's loads of fun. Sounds like you need to pull the crank and wash it really wall to see if some crud fell into the bearing. Replacement cranks are easy to find if you need one.

Keep your head up. A small delay is all. When you are done you can be proud that you fully rebuilt the engine and freshened it up. You don't need to replace anything on the bottom end per say other than maybe the seals and stuff that's worn. I reused my cam chain because it measured right at the new factory spec for elongation. Measure and don't assume.

Good luck.

Ok so I will go ahead and split the cases, never done it before so should be interesting.
One thing I am very happy about is access to Wally Routledge who is an awesome machinist and does his own motorcycle restorations so he knows the Suzuki's.
He does all the specialized work for many of the motorcycle shops here and is quite reasonable, that is reassuring when I run into issues.

[Kiwi Canuck]

Hi Dave

I think these came from Paul Miller about 5-6 years ago -- they were quite common on eBay back then. I will send you one nc and you can play with it. I will use them as actually remember the gold ones on the ANZ versions of the GS1000ST that we got back in 81.

I'm sure the other side will turn up at some stage. Will likely dump the smaller ones on eBay soon as do not play with the smaller bikes.

Thanks Mike, I'll let you know how it goes.

[Nessism]

Charlie, does your donor bike still have a front fender, Rob did not have any that were suitable, let me know as I am in need of one.

Thanks.

DJB

FYI,
The regular GS1000 and 850 fenders are interchangeable. There are some very subtle differences inside if you compare them side by side looking at the bracing, but the exterior profile is identical and they bolt right up.

Splitting the cases isn't difficult and it's loads of fun. Sounds like you need to pull the crank and wash it really wall to see if some crud fell into the bearing. Replacement cranks are easy to find if you need one.

Keep your head up. A small delay is all. When you are done you can be proud that you fully rebuilt the engine and freshened it up. You don't need to replace anything on the bottom end per say other than maybe the seals and stuff that's worn. I reused my cam chain because it measured right at the new factory spec for elongation. Measure and don't assume.

Good luck.

[Kiwi Canuck]

David....I'm not sure I can keep following this thread. Everytime I see a new post I'm starting to just cringe . Just so you know I've got an extra 1000 block over here in case you need anything.

What is Block? ( in my best Russian Accent)

[Charlie G]

David....I'm not sure I can keep following this thread. Everytime I see a new post I'm starting to just cringe . Just so you know I've got an extra 1000 block over here in case you need anything.

I have one also.

David....I'm not sure I can keep following this thread. Everytime I see a new post I'm starting to just cringe . Just so you know I've got an extra 1000 block over here in case you need anything.

[GregT]

I didn't feel like posting this today as I was making good progress and this has curbed my enthusiasm a bit.
I was cleaning off some gaskets on the motor today getting ready to start installing the pistons when I noticed that #3 connecting rod was a bit sticky and not just flopping down like all the others.
I have applied some oil and worked it around but it still feels a bit lumpy, the other rods have a tiny bit of side to side movement but #3 has no side to side movement at all.
Wondering if that was from when I cleaned the engine and got some water in there, I had rags in there and had the top bagged and taped and I don't remember it being too wet in there after I finished.
Not sure if it will just free up or should I order a new bearing and have it changed out, (or replace all four while I'm at it)

So if I do split the cases should I order a new cam chain and guides etc. as the engine has 48,800 KM or about 30,000 Miles on it. (cost is about $75 for the cam chain only and $250 if I change everything)
What else will I need if I split the cases?

Any feedback would be appreciated.

Not quite that simple, Dave....if that big end is toast it's a split the crank and rebuild job for a specialist. You're going to have to split the cases now anyway and have a good look then decide whether to stick with this crank or look for a better one.
My sympathies - this bike has turned out to be one of "those ones"...

[Kiwi Canuck]

Whale Oil Beef Hooked

I didn't feel like posting this today as I was making good progress and this has curbed my enthusiasm a bit.
I was cleaning off some gaskets on the motor today getting ready to start installing the pistons when I noticed that #3 connecting rod was a bit sticky and not just flopping down like all the others.
I have applied some oil and worked it around but it still feels a bit lumpy, the other rods have a tiny bit of side to side movement but #3 has no side to side movement at all.
Wondering if that was from when I cleaned the engine and got some water in there, I had rags in there and had the top bagged and taped and I don't remember it being too wet in there after I finished.
Not sure if it will just free up or should I order a new bearing and have it changed out, (or replace all four while I'm at it)

So if I do split the cases should I order a new cam chain and guides etc. as the engine has 48,800 KM or about 30,000 Miles on it. (cost is about $75 for the cam chain only and $250 if I change everything)
What else will I need if I split the cases?

Any feedback would be appreciated.

Hi Kiwi - Love the great job your doing!!! The below site seem to have a lot of good reusable part, and Brenda there is really quick to reply to a email... maybe they have so already painted part to help with your restore...Rob

http://www.bikeboneyard.com/

Hi Dave

I think these came from Paul Miller about 5-6 years ago -- they were quite common on eBay back then. I will send you one nc and you can play with it. I will use them as actually remember the gold ones on the ANZ versions of the GS1000ST that we got back in 81.

I'm sure the other side will turn up at some stage. Will likely dump the smaller ones on eBay soon as do not play with the smaller bikes.

I agree with you on that, but do I pull the swing arm and do that as well while I'm at it, where does it stop?
Tough call as I have a company that we work with who does powder coating for my company, and they would give me a good deal for personal work.
But doing some parts without doing the frame would drive me nuts, so I better just stay the course and get this bike on the road by this summer, or I'll be talking about getting it finished by Christmas.

haha a real quandary! but hey, your swingarm looks to be the beez kneez as is ... milk that p-coating connection with as many other widgets as poss ... you know you'll never regret it.

[Kiwi Canuck]

If the opportunity's there and there's no economic constraints ... powdercoat it (along with ALL the other appropriate detachable widgets for the bulk pricing deal) and forget about it for the rest of the bike's life! Satin Black is my suggestion. Gloss black is VERY glossy.
There's just no comparison (durability) of paint vs powdercoat in these applications. (twas involved in an industry where this was very apparent, in a previous life)

I agree with you on that, but do I pull the swing arm and do that as well while I'm at it, where does it stop?
Tough call as I have a company that we work with who does powder coating for my company, and they would give me a good deal for personal work.
But doing some parts without doing the frame would drive me nuts, so I better just stay the course and get this bike on the road by this summer, or I'll be talking about getting it finished by Christmas.

[Charlie G]

Charlie, does your donor bike still have a front fender, Rob did not have any that were suitable, let me know as I am in need of one.

Thanks.

DJB

It's already gone unfortunatly! I would have been a good canidate for paint.

I will now remove the center stand and clean it up and either paint or powder coat it.

If the opportunity's there and there's no economic constraints ... powdercoat it (along with ALL the other appropriate detachable widgets for the bulk pricing deal) and forget about it for the rest of the bike's life! Satin Black is my suggestion. Gloss black is VERY glossy.
There's just no comparison (durability) of paint vs powdercoat in these applications. (twas involved in an industry where this was very apparent, in a previous life)

[Kiwi Canuck]

Front Fender

Your not having any luck are you? I have a set of upper forks off a 78 1000e. If they will work you can have them for shipping.
I checked the part numbers and there the same #51110-49001.
cg

Charlie, does your donor bike still have a front fender, Rob did not have any that were suitable, let me know as I am in need of one.

Thanks.

DJB