Progress!!! 1978 GS1000E Restoration/Performance Rebuild

[philosopheriam]

Where did you source the lower end case studs? I was under the impression APE only made 16v studs but I haven't taken the time to compare 8v to 16v studs

The lower case studs are actually sold by APE for an 1100 - they swapped out one of the 1100 studs for a shorter one. By doing this, they can then be used on an 1000.

However, during my install, I did note the following:

1. The studs have one long section of threads and one shorter section - the long section is for installation into the case. The 1000 case must have shallower holes as the studs bottomed out before the shoulder of the stud reached the case. So, we installed the studs with the shorter thread length into the case and they worked fine (there was plenty of thread engagement and the studs were just short of bottoming out).

2. The studs must be on the upper end of the thread-fit tolerance - in their original state, the studs would not thread into my case, whereas a regular M8 bolt and the original case bolt would thread in just fine. An M8 nut would thread on the end of the stud OK. So, my case tolerance must have been on the small end and the studs on the high end - running the ends of the studs intended to go into the case on a loosely-adjusted die solved this problem. *VERY* little material was removed from the stud and they would thread in perfectly after this was done.

[first timer]

THanks sounds simple enough. Red lock tight for the stud threads in the case? I would like to see a picture of the the bottom case bolted together if you don't mind.

[blowerbike]

i wouldn't lock tight the studs...

[philosopheriam]

APE suggests a dab of loctite on the main bearing studs, whereas the cylinder studs are installed with oil.

[philosopheriam]

Also, I forgot to mention that the studs directly in front of the oil filter cover need to be trimmed about 3/16" (perhaps a smidge less) to allow clearance for the oil filter cover to slip on/off its mounting studs.

[blowerbike]

on 16 valve engines a person grinds the filter cover to get clearance...just don't grind into the o-ring slot.

[rapidray]

Looking good!! And what Terry said, grind the cover instead of the studs.
Ray.

[philosopheriam]

I cut the studs near the oil filter cover about 3/16 of an inch from the top - this allows the flange nut to thread onto the stud with approximately 1.5 threads showing from the top of the nut. I DID NOT grind on the nut or cut the stud below the surface of the nut.

[philosopheriam]

More progress, not in any particular order:

IMG_1160 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

IMG_1162 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

IMG_1166 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

IMG_1167 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

IMG_1169 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

IMG_1171 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

[philosopheriam]

Much of the progress is test fitting, etc....

IMG_1172 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

IMG_1173 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

IMG_1174 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

IMG_1175 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

IMG_1176_1 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

IMG_1177 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

IMG_1178 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

[rapidray]

Looking good!!!
Ray.

[Battleship62]

Excellent work. Those liquid supplements your referenced in your first post must really help.

[rapidray]

Excellent work. Those liquid supplements your referenced in your first post must really help.

Hey!! Long time, no hear from!! LOL! How is your engine holding up?
Ray.

[philosopheriam]

Ray,

in in the near future I'll be giving you a text/call so we can discuss piston-to-valve clearance and cam timing :-)

[philosopheriam]

Excellent work. Those liquid supplements your referenced in your first post must really help.

Actually, I have been behaving myself - supplements are for AFTER engine assembly time, not during... I want this engine to actually run