Restoring to factory glory

[JTGS850GL]

If the stator tests good (the procedure is in the service manual), then there's no reason to change it. Stators typically only go bad from overheating due to a malfunctioning R/R.

Actually not completely true. First off stators can measure correctly when doing a static measurement but due to insulation breakdown can fail as voltage/current rises. Static, no load, measurements are not conclusive unless they fail the test. Passing all tests does not ensure complete reliability.

Second, the stator can fail with a working R/R. On a shunt R/R, much of the energy produced gets dumped back into the stator as heat. Eventually this heat will destroy any stator if gone unchecked. True that a bad R/R can damage a stator but it's possible for the failure mode to occur in the opposite direction or even independent of the R/R.

IMHO, the best solution, for complete piece of mind, would be a new or rewind stator along with a series R/R (SH775) wired directly to the stator with no headlamp loop through the main harness and back. That along with a complete check/cleaning of all wiring connections including grounds and fuses. Adding a couple ground points wont hurt either. Add to that a current account with AAA and you should have great piece of mind.

Seriously though... For me, I'd replace the R/R with the SH775 and check charge voltages. If all checks out then you may have extended the life of your existing stator. Just be aware that it may fail from previous damage anyway but I personally would be willing to accept that. You may not though.

[cjanderson_90]

I think to play it safe(and since i got the bike so cheap to begin with) Ill get both the new stator and RR and ground everything out better. Last thing I need is to be stranded somewhere with a 500lb razor scooter

[cjanderson_90]

Have any of you guys bought an air/fuel gauge and hooked it up to really do some fine tuning? Id really like this to run as well as possible and i have just enough knowledge to get me into trouble. How many have done it with any luck? Im familiar with jet sizes, but the needle positions always confuse me. Also, should this be done before or after the carbs have been synced(sunk?)? Compression is good and the bike idles well after a warm up but I know the previous owner messed with jet sizes and I need this to be right as I plan on taking this bike on some pretty length road trips this summer. Thanks in advanced!

[eil]

There are some who have messed with F/A ratio sensor setups. From my reading, I understood that it worked but there are lots of caveats. The easier (and cheaper) way to get a feel for proper mixture at different throttle positions is to do a series of plug chops. Run the bike at a particular throttle opening at speed, shut off the engine and pull the clutch at the same time and then coast to the side of the road. Pull the plugs and read them.

There was a really great article on carb tuning somewhere out there on the interwebs, but I'm unable to find it right now.

[cjanderson_90]

I found a good resource and I'm sure its the same one you mean

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/highest_rpm_plug_chop.html

Im really kicking myself for not taking an inventory of all the jets but that just gives me something to do now as I await the riding season.

Another question. I read somewhere that changing the throttle tube to an R1 tube will make a big difference and shorten the pull a lot. Has anyone recently done this? Can I buy just the $9 tube from motion pro? And keep my grip sleeve? Thanks again!

[Pete's GS]

Nice. I have a '78 GS750E I restored. Really like them.

[hampshirehog]

Another question. I read somewhere that changing the throttle tube to an R1 tube will make a big difference and shorten the pull a lot. Has anyone recently done this? Can I buy just the $9 tube from motion pro? And keep my grip sleeve? Thanks again!

I replaced the throttle tubes on both my 1ks with tubes from an R6; it's worth doing in my opinion.

[dorkburger]

I did the $1 throttle mod. Makes the bike feel more punchy from the throttle opening quicker.

[dorkburger]

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?135697-1-Quick-Turn-Throttle-Mod/page2

[cjanderson_90]

I think that I'll probably buy the whole tube.

Got a little work done today on the bike. Fixed the gear indicator. Had power going into the board but then it just stopped. The connection on the board was bad so i wired it directly into the resistor. Works great. Noticed there was actually room on the board and in the housing for a 6th gear, so thats interesting. I also put on a clamp on my fuel line from the petcock and it started leaking like crazy so i think its shot now. Gonna get a new petcock so i can actually do some tuning.

[cjanderson_90]

Did a little more work on the bike. Fixed the coils since it was only running on 2 cylinders. Took it for a ride last night. Was a ton of fun, but the petcock leaked pretty bad. So i ordered a new petcock. Midrange power sucks pretty bad right now, but the carbs need to be sync'd yet. Going to call some bike shops here in town and see if i can rent a sync tool from them. Also got the airbox all sealed up. Brakes are really good on it but it dives pretty bad so maybe some new springs are in order.

I also have had another project this winter thats been taking my time. Got a 2005 Buell XB9SX for $500 from a friend that runs just fine. Did a little maintenance work on it and thats what ive been riding on nice days here lately. Ill keep you guys updated

[Guest]

The R6 tube gives you 1/4 turn, the R1 gives 1/6 turn. Nice to use and not heavy. From memory, the R1 to use is from the early noughties! Cheers