1983 Suzuki GS850 Cafe Racer Project

...I suggest dumping those L forks because they slow down flick-ability.

The difference, if any at all, is so tiny, 95% of riders will never notice the difference, especially on an 850 or 1100 shaft drive. Those bikes are FAR from "flickable", in any case...

[Dogma]

That looks about like stock rear end geometry for an 850. Being on the center stand with no exhaust, it looks a little unusual.

[tkent02]

I like it too, the best use of an L tank and the seat looks very nice and looks comfortable too. The L forks won't slow anything down if you used the same triple clamps which it looks like you did. The wrinkle finish is a nice touch, is it paint or powdercoat? One thing to think about with shock length, the driveshaft is happiest at a certain angle, hard to tell from here, but it looks like the swingarm is already angled down further that it was originally?

Damn it!

Got the wrong parts in, now I have to wait again. I'm itching to get this project going again, it's been too long.

[Buffalo Bill]

I like your build!
Because I prioritize improving performance, I suggest dumping those L forks because they slow down flick-ability.
Also get taller harder rear shocks to lift the back a bit, to increase handling speed.

"Also, I am looking at installing a rearset......." Would the actual pass foot peg location be too high and back for you?...probably, but depending on your inseam/legs that would be an easy mounting place. Look on the inside of your oem pass peg brackets...you'll see the odd looking casting mark...a circle with a raised slot on it...that could be a half way point to mount to as well {btw- they don't exactly match so it's just a reference point}.
Problem is that no one makes rear sets for the G model shaft bikes...E's and S's sure, but the industry left us shaft guys out in the cold.
My suggestion is to find a rear set somewhere that has the pegs{folding or stationary}, style or color that you like, then you can make a plate to mount them in place of your oem pegs. Hardest part is two fold.....A} usable shifter and brake mounting hardware and B}a usable/comfortable foot peg location. Somewhat pic your body being frozen {bear with me here} - if you freeze your body, tilt forward and down to a new lower hand grip location, your feet should find a new upward and back location...should. I happen to have a 36" inseam, so my long legs will need to be somewhere other than in my armpits when I'm done......btw, I have the same problem as you but n '80 G that's in need of rear sets. Your year uses the aluminum foot peg brackets for passenger peg mounts while mine has a frame hoop with welded on pass foot pegs{for now - I've aquirred a pair of '82 G mounts like yours}.

Thanks ^^

Still waiting on some parts, so I don't have any real updates at the moment.

Hate to say it but the first place to start is getting rid of those narrow cone filters and getting a proper set of filters from APE or K&N. Those filters more than likely have the same issue I saw with another similar set I got where the inlet is necked down where the rubber joins to the metal base of the filter. If the rubbers diameter is less than the outer diameter of the carb then you will see restriction. Then order Dynojet kit 3306. It's not just jetting you need. You also need the needles included in that kit. I have the same motor you do and that jet kit along with the APE filters is what I am running. Install the largest jets in the kit and set the mixture to the manual in the kit. I haven't had to touch mine since install. I think I am running a 17.5 idle jet.

Thanks for the input, I'll check out the kit. Also the filters do not have that issue, I read about the issue and that was the first thing I checked when I received them.

Not only will it cause overall restriction, often times the inner parts cover the air bleeds. This will make the bike virtually untuneable.

Rear tire is going to slam into the seat pan over hard bumps. One of the most common mistakes made by the new wave of builders.

You might find that clipons with no rearsets is very uncomfortable on long rides.

It does look good, but form follows function. Cheers and good luck with the project

Hello! If the tire does rub on hard bumps, what do you suggest to remedy the problem? Also, I am looking at installing a rearset, as I have to agree, the clipons put you in very low position.

Thanks guys, constructive criticism is always welcome.

I'll keep you updated.

Damn, this bike looks good.

Looking very good! I'm in the process of doing the same thing ( had to do a lot of maintenance stuff and collect parts first).
What are you looking to do as far as rear sets?
And are you deleting the turn signals? If so, a diy would be great :P ( the harness on my bike is so hacked up, I can't make any sense of it, even looking at the diagram for it)

Hate to say it but the first place to start is getting rid of those narrow cone filters and getting a proper set of filters from APE or K&N. Those filters more than likely have the same issue I saw with another similar set I got where the inlet is necked down where the rubber joins to the metal base of the filter. If the rubbers diameter is less than the outer diameter of the carb then you will see restriction.

Not only will it cause overall restriction, often times the inner parts cover the air bleeds. This will make the bike virtually untuneable.

Rear tire is going to slam into the seat pan over hard bumps. One of the most common mistakes made by the new wave of builders.

You might find that clipons with no rearsets is very uncomfortable on long rides.

It does look good, but form follows function. Cheers and good luck with the project

BTW the bike looks great. I love where you have gone with it.

Hate to say it but the first place to start is getting rid of those narrow cone filters and getting a proper set of filters from APE or K&N. Those filters more than likely have the same issue I saw with another similar set I got where the inlet is necked down where the rubber joins to the metal base of the filter. If the rubbers diameter is less than the outer diameter of the carb then you will see restriction. Then order Dynojet kit 3306. It's not just jetting you need. You also need the needles included in that kit. I have the same motor you do and that jet kit along with the APE filters is what I am running. Install the largest jets in the kit and set the mixture to the manual in the kit. I haven't had to touch mine since install. I think I am running a 17.5 idle jet.

No I didn't. Thanks Weasel.

I haven't had any time to get anything else done on the bike since my last post.

I'll keep you posted as usual.

Thanks again.

Did you come across this post yet in reference to pods & rejetting?

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?199275-Pods-Pipes-Panic!-(Help!-Your-Bike-has-Pods)

I have read a few threads and websites on carb rejetting, but to tell you the truth, I am a little unsure about that.

Does anyone have any idea where to start, going from a stock set up like this......



To using pods and a slip on muffler like this one?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/171434479222

Some input would greatly be appreciated.

Thanks