NORCAL Prepping for Long Trip - 78 GS1000

[Caferob]

Well I figure I might as well start a thread here since all my questions have been answered and im well on my way to the tail end of tuning the bike. I didn't want to post non-topic related stuff so here goes! I hope you enjoy reading, watching, and hopefully commenting along during this challenge of mine!

Bike: 1978 GS1000 Skunk (not sure if it's an S,E, or whatever). Chain driven
Mods: Kerker 4-1, Mikuni 132.5 Main jets, K&N Air pods, Honda R/R mod, Dyna S Ignition, rear luggage Rack and passenger backrest (thanks Paul!), block plate to prevent leaked oil from coating the electrical system, breather hose pod filter.
Recent work done: Valve shim clearance adjusted, cover & breather gasket (ordered tonight), carbs cleaned flossed and dipped with Mikuni 132.5 mains and needle clips on the bottom position, charging system gone through with new connectors and added grounds, Ignition static and timed with a timing light.

I ordered the valve cover gasket and breather gasket so hopefully that will stop my oil leak. My boots were coated after a short ride!! I pulled the cover and the gasket I just put on literally fell apart. After scraping some old gasket off Ill give it another cleaning before adding the new gaskets. Theres no way this thing will last a trip up to Forks of Salmon but Ill prep until I can get her there!!

Here's the latest video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7v8j13FrPBo

[850 Combat]

The standard place for leaks on mine has always been in front of the cam chain, where the cam chain flings oil on it pretty hard, or the half moons. You need to clean it well enough to see what to fix. I've had the cam chain oil push the gasket out of the joint, and I've also had it break in there. The tach drive is close to that area, and can look like a valve cover leak. Tach drive is a common leak. Are you sure that the vent hose from the top of the valve cover isn't pinched or kinked? That could make the gasket fail.

I put sealant between between the valve cover and gasket. I smear the sealant thin on the gasket with my finger, and let it start to set up before putting it on to the valve cover. I use anti seize on the bottom side of the gasket. My 1 GS850 and 4 GS1000s don't leak, from the valve cover gasket.

I just hate scraping gaskets off of aluminum.

Valve cover gasket can only be so bad of a problem. The GS1000G I have in Oregon had such a bad valve cover leak (at the front cam chain sprocket area - gasket pushed almost all the way out) when I bought it that I couldn't see the head gasket leak. There was disappointment when I fixed the valve cover leak on that one.

You are almost there.

[thebrandonbeezy]

Id like to see the bike

[thebrandonbeezy]

I just hate scraping gaskets off of aluminum.

Im right there with you on that..

[Caferob]

Id like to see the bike

I posted a video but here's a link to my videos for you to check out. They are somewhat in chronological order as to my posts on here and what im doing to the bike. If your interested, subscribe. I try to post at least a video per week.

List of all the videos:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCkNgfSgKYqJLF7Q9_4s0YDA/videos

Here's a photo of the plate i made to block any oil leak from soaking my electrical system.
17499090_440700796267933_5829124867658117696_n.jpg

[Vortexjunkie]

If you make it out my way to Modesto Area you should shoot me a PM!

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I've always applied a very thin coat of grease to both sides of the valve cover gasket. I rub it over the gasket until it's so thin, it's barely there. It makes the next removal clean and quick and doesn't compromise sealing at all. Some people make the coat a tad thicker in places to help keep the gasket from moving during assembly. Also, on the new gasket, don't cut off the two strips that aren't necessary for sealing until the cover is tightened down. Those two strips will help the gasket stay where you want it. Some new gaskets may come "warped" or bent a little, depending on packaging. Those two strips should help the gasket lay down better. After tightening, cut them off with a safety razor blade.
The only time I had a new valve cover gasket leak was my first time installing one. On the front, where it protrudes out for the cam chain guide, the gasket has to be placed carefully just in front of the lip of the guide. Mine leaked because the gasket moved inward just enough to ride up on the edge of the guide. I know now to pay attention to that area. As you're installing it, notice how the gasket looks when correctly placed. See how a certain amount of the gasket will be visible after the cover is placed on it. Follow that and you'll be good. If you cannot see the gasket or not enough of it after installing the cover, there's a good chance it moved and is riding up on the guide.
One other thing, the half-moons should be replaced with new ones. They are prone to leaking. I use a pliable gasket sealant on them. Just a thin coat on the curved part. No need to apply sealant to the top/flat part. After you place the moon into it's groove, "rock" the moon back and forward once to spread the sealant evenly. Then be sure the moon's flat surface is parallel with the cover. Don't use too much sealant or the flat part of the moon can sit too high above the cover surface. Quickly wipe off any sealant that oozes inside. Install the cover before the sealant dries too much. Carefully place the cover on and uniformly tighten the cover bolts as you would a head gasket. Snug them all down by fingers only, then, starting with the center/innermost bolts and working your way outward diagonally, tighten them gradually. Final factory torque I believe is 7 lb/ft. I torque them to 8. Never had a leak following the above.
And there are TWO seals in the tach drive. Be sure both are OK.
PS: I believe two of the valve cover bolts are a little longer than the others. Be sure you know where the longer ones should go.

[Caferob]

If you make it out my way to Modesto Area you should shoot me a PM!

I definitely will! Likewise if you ever ride into SF or San Jose. Or even a Napa Valley run.

[Caferob]

I've always applied a very thin coat of grease to both sides of the valve cover gasket. I rub it over the gasket until it's so thin, it's barely there. It makes the next removal clean and quick and doesn't compromise sealing at all. Some people make the coat a tad thicker in places to help keep the gasket from moving during assembly. Also, on the new gasket, don't cut off the two strips that aren't necessary for sealing until the cover is tightened down. Those two strips will help the gasket stay where you want it. Some new gaskets may come "warped" or bent a little, depending on packaging. Those two strips should help the gasket lay down better. After tightening, cut them off with a safety razor blade.
The only time I had a new valve cover gasket leak was my first time installing one. On the front, where it protrudes out for the cam chain guide, the gasket has to be placed carefully just in front of the lip of the guide. Mine leaked because the gasket moved inward just enough to ride up on the edge of the guide. I know now to pay attention to that area. As you're installing it, notice how the gasket looks when correctly placed. See how a certain amount of the gasket will be visible after the cover is placed on it. Follow that and you'll be good. If you cannot see the gasket or not enough of it after installing the cover, there's a good chance it moved and is riding up on the guide.
One other thing, the half-moons should be replaced with new ones. They are prone to leaking. I use a pliable gasket sealant on them. Just a thin coat on the curved part. No need to apply sealant to the top/flat part. After you place the moon into it's groove, "rock" the moon back and forward once to spread the sealant evenly. Then be sure the moon's flat surface is parallel with the cover. Don't use too much sealant or the flat part of the moon can sit too high above the cover surface. Quickly wipe off any sealant that oozes inside. Install the cover before the sealant dries too much. Carefully place the cover on and uniformly tighten the cover bolts as you would a head gasket. Snug them all down by fingers only, then, starting with the center/innermost bolts and working your way outward diagonally, tighten them gradually. Final factory torque I believe is 7 lb/ft. I torque them to 8. Never had a leak following the above.
And there are TWO seals in the tach drive. Be sure both are OK.
PS: I believe two of the valve cover bolts are a little longer than the others. Be sure you know where the longer ones should go.

So Grease (Engine Grease??) to both sides of the gaskets, make sure a little bit can be seen while torqing down, gasket sealant on the half moons.
Ive got brand new half moons on it now.

One question do torque wrenches go bad? Can i calibrate my old one or should i buy a new one?

[Vortexjunkie]

I definitely will! Likewise if you ever ride into SF or San Jose. Or even a Napa Valley run.

Just got my second bike under the knife right now: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ct-1980-GS450E

Once that is done i will start riding that more than the other so possibly!

So Grease (Engine Grease??) to both sides of the gaskets, make sure a little bit can be seen while torqing down, gasket sealant on the half moons.
Ive got brand new half moons on it now.

One question do torque wrenches go bad? Can i calibrate my old one or should i buy a new one?

You should have your TQ Wrenches calibrated once a year depending on use or how you store it.

[Caferob]

You should have your TQ Wrenches calibrated once a year depending on use or how you store it.

Where do I get this done? I highly doubt my three torques have ever been calibrated.

[Vortexjunkie]

Where do I get this done? I highly doubt my three torques have ever been calibrated.

It depends on who makes them. I know snap on does it and i'm sure craftsman has a service as well. If its a cheaply one from harbor freight don't bother though. Your touch is probably more calibrated than that wrench will ever be.

[Caferob]

The one time i used my torque wrench I had no idea what i was doing and snapped a very important bolt. That was the last time i ever used one. Never had to. But this time I think i should since the oil leak is such a PITA!!

btw - I put engine grease on both sides of the gasket? My uncle said to use sealant on one side and grease on teh other but the stuff i used before completely trashed my gasket.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I've used hi-temp bearing grease in the past. Ran out of that and now use a synthetic hi-temp bearing grease. Not sure what you mean by "engine grease". Just keep the coat very light. If installed/torqued correctly, the gasket seals by itself but the grease makes the next removal much easier.
I don't understand your uncle's thinking of sealant on one side and grease on the other. Which side gets the sealant and why? In the case of your valve cover gasket, you do NOT need sealant unless you've damaged the surfaces while scraping off old gasket material. Sealant will just make an unnecessary mess.
Torque wrenches will tell you to re-calibrate at a certain amount of time passed, depending on usage. Sears will take their Craftsman wrenches but I can't tell you if they do it correctly, or at all. I don't trust them anymore. One basic tip that applies to all torque wrenches I've used: after using them, turn the torque down to it's minimum setting. The wrench should not sit awhile or be stored with the torque setting at whatever you were using it at.

[Caferob]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EDq0fgznP3A

New video out. While waiting for the gaskets (which arrived today actually!) i ended up starting the 1983 Honda Magna V65 and taking it around the block. No Clutch or Brakes, stupid i know but I couldn't wait.