1984 GS1150ef rebuild!!! renew!!

[wyly]

I think you should include the Bandit & SV families in your fork swap options.

thanks I'll look into those.

[wyly]

My last post to the thread was based on your comment from this #19 post.
I'll stop making any suggestions, as I've never done the swap, but always wanted to, there's still time, have 2 specimens, just sharing other successful swap choices people have made over the last 20 years.
I can't stand the way my stock 1150ES handles, it's a boinger, even with a Works remote reservoir shock, Progressive springs up front w/spacer & anti-dive block off plates.

oh hey feel free to make suggestions! Every idea is worth considering.

I'm surprised progressives didn't help you I've had those recommended to me as well.

On my 79 CBX my mechanic advised installing Race Tech emulators and springs. The 79 CBX has a reputation for weak front end with many owners swapping for complete front ends but the Race Tech mods made an amazing improvement with my oem forks.

[wyly]

IMG_1490.jpgclick to enlarge

I hate sewing! Working inside out and backwards!
Not 100% perfect but as good as number of replacement pads I've seen on other Slabbies.

I intend to eventually give this to my son-in-law but it was important I convert it to a solo ride first so he can't take my daughter out riding, mission accomplished.

[dorkburger]

Hmmmm. Making it lighter, quicker, and solo only..... Do we not like the S I L?
Kidding, but it is kinda funny. It would be cool to have a father in law that rides.
The solo conversion came out nice.

[wyly]

IMG_1518.jpg
Merry Xmas to ME!!!
Add 4-2-1 Hindles to the mix, instant HP!

[Spyder]

Couple things. '93-'95 GSXR's carbs ARE RS-36's If you aren't doing any engine work (i.e. cams, valves) you may be going too big with the 36's. I have a '95 GSXR750W, I can go out and measure my forks for you, for a "real world" "now I know" measurement. I am very absent minded, but I will do my best to remember to do it. The stock wheels, front and rear are 17". To go much wider in the rear, you WILL have to use a modern swingarm. I don't think there are any direct swaps out there. I believe you have to machine the pivot down like a 1/4 inch or so, and change the bearings out. Then I think you will need to do some minor modification for the shock. In addition to that, you have to use a spacer behind your front sprocket. If you have any questions about the '95, or need me to take any other measurements from my bike, just let me know, I will do my best to get back with to you.

[chris]

Nice, very nice carbs I used the same setup on my 83 restromod. My engine is internally stock and the carbs were pretty much perfect out of the box. I also used a pingle duel outlet petcock with reserve. The stock gs peacocks can be troublesome. I bet you can't wait till spring. 😁

[wyly]

it's been awhile since I've been here, Covid/2020 has absolutely turned my life upside down, the year from hell, lost job(covid) vacations canceled(covid) mrs became deathly sick and now in chemo with all the complications that covid situation adds to it. My project came to absolute halt there were more pressing considerations.

After a time out I've got back to it just to keep my mind in a more positive outlook.

Huge change of direction with my project. Here's a picture of where it's at today I'll fill in some details of what I've done and why later, mostly it comes down to a chat with my mechanic and a buddy who asked me if I wanted to borrow his english wheel.
IMG_2233.jpg

[wyly]

Couple things. '93-'95 GSXR's carbs ARE RS-36's If you aren't doing any engine work (i.e. cams, valves) you may be going too big with the 36's. I have a '95 GSXR750W, I can go out and measure my forks for you, for a "real world" "now I know" measurement. I am very absent minded, but I will do my best to remember to do it. The stock wheels, front and rear are 17". To go much wider in the rear, you WILL have to use a modern swingarm. I don't think there are any direct swaps out there. I believe you have to machine the pivot down like a 1/4 inch or so, and change the bearings out. Then I think you will need to do some minor modification for the shock. In addition to that, you have to use a spacer behind your front sprocket. If you have any questions about the '95, or need me to take any other measurements from my bike, just let me know, I will do my best to get back with to you.

I've been told a 5.5" wheel is possible in the rear, and often the clearance problems stem from the tire and not the wheel. But I'm not there yet so time to research that more.

RS36's worked perfectly, amazing performance increase. Mechanic said I could've run 38's but unless I was going to track days or drag racing (I'd need headwork) to stay with the 36, the Mikuni rep said the same.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

it's been awhile since I've been here, Covid/2020 has absolutely turned my life upside down, the year from hell, lost job(covid) vacations canceled(covid) mrs became deathly sick and now in chemo with all the complications that covid situation adds to it. My project came to absolute halt there were more pressing considerations.

After a time out I've got back to it just to keep my mind in a more positive outlook.

Huge change of direction with my project. Here's a picture of where it's at today I'll fill in some details of what I've done and why later, mostly it comes down to a chat with my mechanic and a buddy who asked me if I wanted to borrow his english wheel.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]61760[/ATTACH]

Dang Wyly, to say that you’ve been through quite the rough patch would be a massive understatement. Don’t know if you’re the praying type but you’re definitely on my list, like it or not.

I had wondered what became of this thread.

I absolutely love the polished bare metal w/red accents. Take care.

[wyly]

Cut off pillion pegs with a grinder, sanded with belt sander and then by hand.
IMG_1629.jpg

[wyly]

only one photo per post, geez...this gonna take awhile.
IMG_1630.jpg

[wyly]

The panels have always been a problem, the attachment pins break, panels crack, just a pain in the butt to remove and put on. Then I can across some other bike builders on the net who were building their own fairings from aluminum. As I had already polished the tank and fork brace because I was fed up with repainting, something part always seems to be getting scratched. With polished steel or aluminum you can polish the scratch out. A buddy who at one time put the skins on commercial Jets offered me his english wheel as he'd gone into different work. I know nothing about metal fabrication. I started with the easy panels and worked my way up to the harder pieces, the front cowl is gonna be tough to do in one piece.
115873976_166456508291244_3271206340325917354_n.jpg
Panel under the tail cowl.
I've no idea how to make the photos bigger, sorry.

[wyly]

Annoying middle panel that got me started. Two previous pieces ended up in the recycle bin, they were closer to the oem appearance but required welding, I'm hopeless at welding aluminum, you can burn a hole through it in a second. I did. So ended up with a simpler design that works. I still haven't worked out the best points to attach them as yet and may still alter the design when the upper cowl is done.

IMG_2046.jpg

[wyly]

Lower cowl was a challenge. A lot measuring to get two halves to meet up. Compound curves and curved flanges. It took a couple weeks, not perfect but I'm pleased since I don't know what I'm doing. I ask my buddy for advice and he just sends me thumbsup emojis, "your doing good". Youtube has helped
.IMG_2170.jpg