Norwegian 1979 GS500E restoration.

[Guest]

Hmmm that did not work…. Been such a long time since i posted here i forgot how to post pictures via Flickr

[Guest]

Did a some work on the gas tank, got rid of rust, brackets behind the Suzuki logo is gone as it was rusty behind it. Sanded down and did the whole nine yards. Put the new decor on it. Not sprayed on a clear coat yet as I need to do same thing with sidecovers and ducktail. Looking forward to get it all done and clearcoat the parts.

[KiwiAlfa156]

it brakes good. However the frontbrakes are soft to squeeze. Wondering if either the brake lines are to old and give in or the brake cylinder might be bad.

I agree with Grimly re: Master cylinder bore diameter. Can't see the MC in the pic to see if it's the original GS or not. It's crucial that the MC bore matches the one that was used with the calipers on the donor bike. The ratio of MC piston area and caliper piston area is what determines the leverage the brake lever exerts on the brake pads. Too small an MC will give excessive travel and easy lock ups. Too big gives less travel and less force multiplication.

Also if the calipers have been rebuilt with new seals, the seals should be lubed with brake fluid or the lube that comes with the seal kit. If the seal sticks to the piston it won't self-adjust for pad wear by slipping through the seal and thus the piston retracts too far from the disc when the lever is released. Then all the initial lever travel is used up closing the gap when you grab the brakes. I learnt this after bleeding about a liter of brake fluid through my front brakes trying to flush out the non-existent air bubbles that MUST be the cause of my spongy brake lever.

[Guest]

link test to the fresh painted and restored gastank.... just needs a coat of clear ten ready. Sorry for crap picture quality.
65AAAE42-BD1B-442F-9B64-E44538A2F688 by Kenneth H, on Flickr

[Guest]

I agree with Grimly re: Master cylinder bore diameter. Can't see the MC in the pic to see if it's the original GS or not. It's crucial that the MC bore matches the one that was used with the calipers on the donor bike. The ratio of MC piston area and caliper piston area is what determines the leverage the brake lever exerts on the brake pads. Too small an MC will give excessive travel and easy lock ups. Too big gives less travel and less force multiplication.

Also if the calipers have been rebuilt with new seals, the seals should be lubed with brake fluid or the lube that comes with the seal kit. If the seal sticks to the piston it won't self-adjust for pad wear by slipping through the seal and thus the piston retracts too far from the disc when the lever is released. Then all the initial lever travel is used up closing the gap when you grab the brakes. I learnt this after bleeding about a liter of brake fluid through my front brakes trying to flush out the non-existent air bubbles that MUST be the cause of my spongy brake lever.

thanks for info. I will be using the original front discs again. And buy some new brakehoses too.

[nvr2old]

That tank looks awesome! I like the subtle changes in color.

[Guest]

That tank looks awesome! I like the subtle changes in color.

Thanx pretty happy with the result.

[Guest]

B73FEF8D-A4E3-4F51-8477-07F323FDE7CE by Kenneth H, on Flickr

001B22D5-D472-418D-B730-CFE8A123DF76 by Kenneth H, on Flickr