First time drag racing report: FUN!!!

[trippivot]

shift minder package is the way to go - 6000 base --- shift light diode wire, and matching plugs -light mount bracket... all you need

"quick shifting" takes more -- dyna shift counter and a mps air shifting kit -and your horn button will activate it- electric over air works best I also suggest an onboard compressor . air over air OR electric over air -- I prefer electric over air.

now I like the 2-- but unless you have nitrous or turbo it is a big box taking up space in one place-

I got rid of my sp4000 (and remote) because it is too big and does not benefit in higher H.P.-also have a complete 2000 unit sitting on a shelf collecting dust-

I choose to use just a "S" ign, green coils, dyna wires, drl400, shift minder, shift counter, and the air system. more units but they are so small and easier to mount.

would not suggest front brake while launching. yes when staging. strapping helps so you may not feel the need for front brakes.

[CivilRock]

So I watched tons of youtube vids of launches, and none use the front brake to hold the line.

Then I read (and watched) Ricky Gadson's instructions on how to launch. He didn't specifically talk about holding the brake, but he did say to load the engine with the clutch a little bit. This is what I do. I get the clutch just so it's barely engaged and right there. The chain is taught, the bike is ready to spring into action. As soon as I let off the brake, I apply throttle and clutch out. I set my clutch so that I can keep my pinky and ring finger on the bar, and use my index and middle on the clutch lever. That way I can stage with 2 fingers on the clutch, pinched on my little fingers without any clutch grab. That also lets me hold on. I don't know how I'd keep the bike in place while "loading" the drive train with a little clutch drag and not use the brake. I guess I could use my rear brake, but I like having both feet on the ground so the bike is perfectly balanced.

At these early stages of my drag racing life, I want to make sure I'm doing it the right way. So I don't develop bad habits. What's the right way?

-Kevin

[rapidray]

It sounds like you have it down Kevin. There is NOTHING wrong with using a little brake to hold the bike. I have done it that way for over 35 years.
Ray.

[Guest]

image.jpgGet some pics or video of your launches it can help a lot to see what you are actually doing. As far a making a bike leave good ask 100 different racers and you will get as many different answers. Do what feels right to you and keep track of your 330' times as well as the 60' footers to see if what your doing is working for you.
Look at the pic of my launch only two fingers on the clutch no brake but that's just me and the way I like to do it.

[blowerbike]

your drive train IMO is already loaded from clutch drag and if you have helical gears it is for sure loaded.

[Guest]

your drive train IMO is already loaded from clutch drag and if you have helical gears it is for sure loaded.

I think what he is talking about is slightly letting the clutch out a little so the bike is ready to move at the slightest movement of the clutch. Even when I run the slider on a no bar bike I bring the revs up to just under where you can feel it starting to want to pull the bike. But I don't use any brakes. That's the way I do it. I also stage very deep. If the track allows it I leave the top bulb off.



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[blowerbike]

big GS's with a live clutch and helical gears can be a pain because of the creep factor.
big mechanical carbs on a stock engine can be a pain also on a short no bar bike.
just a trial and error thing...

[trippivot]

+2 video your launches. a log book is a very useful tool to list and compare your reaction times and 60' times. let consistency evolve your technique.

when you modify your race bike your technique is going to change so just get comfortable - that means more than anything

[Guest]

My son bought an '04 1000 gsxr set-up with a multi stage lock-up clutch. Spent most of the year trying to get comfortable with it. Now has the stock springs back in it and is now controlling the lever again and is much happier with it, and is slowly improving his 60ft times. Do what works for you.

[CivilRock]

All Great advice, and well taken.

I watched one school video where the instructor was teaching the students to sit up straight and lean forward right as they launch. Although I don't think I'll use this technique, it got me thinking about the mechanics of leaping off the line. When I hold the front brake and drag the clutch, I think it pushes down on the front forks a little. Maybe this is a bad thing. Because when I let go of the front, it might be making me want to wheelie more with the front unloading. ???

I was finally unpacking my backpack and I found one more time slip. 22 passes. I wished that I had a pencil or pen so I could take notes on the time slips of what I did, what I did wrong, what happened, etc. I need to do that so I can remember what works and what doesn't. I'm going to try some various techniques next time and try and keep good notes.

I want to circle back around to the advice of lowering the bike. I have a front strap now, and I'm going to try various levels of tension on the front. Should I lower the rear end as well or leave it where it is? does it matter?

This next time I should be able to get some video. I'm not really counting on good quality, but we'll see.

Thanks for all the advice, I'll report back after the next journey.

-Kevin

[1_v8_merc]

Nows the time to buy a drag bike or v8 build, you can score them frigging Dirt cheap.
The economy is still rough, and it takes a specific kind of buyer for that stuff. I don't even want to look on craigslist anymore, my wallet will just go empty, because there's Always something good for sale! haha

[Guest]

The main benefit from the air shifter is the shift from 1st to 2nd you can controls the bike better allowing you to launch harder if you don't have to pull your feet up to the pegs for the shift to 2nd gear. And believe me if you get a good enough sixty footer it is hard to pull them to the pegs. I prefer the MRE electric over air system with the MPS kill box it makes for a really nice setup without breaking the wallet. With that Dyna 2000 you can program your own ignition curve. And yes the lower you get the bike the quicker it will accelerate.



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[gs11ezrydr]

I thought that my $ Dyna 2000 should have capabilities to power a shift light or a ignition kill switch, and it seems like there's an Orange wire that can be used for an immobility device, or a shifter interrupt switch.
The manual doesn't say much about it other than there are plenty of outside vendors that offer shifter linkage inline switches. Does anyone know about a generic switch that can be used in my linkage as a "quick-shift"?

All the switches I found online are for modern bikes that cut fuel via EFI. I'm guessing that it would be crude and not millisecond adjustable, but it might be an easy first step.

-Kevin

Superbike Mike used to sell a micro switch that mounted at the shifter, I think with an adjustable kill time box. Been a while since I have seen one though so sketchy on the details sorry.

[Guest]

Here is some info on launching a no bar bike Kevin.

http://store.schnitzracing.com/Motorcycle-Drag-Style-Launch-Dump-or-Ride-the-Clutch

[jstewart]

I thought that my $ Dyna 2000 should have capabilities to power a shift light or a ignition kill switch, and it seems like there's an Orange wire that can be used for an immobility device, or a shifter interrupt switch.
The manual doesn't say much about it other than there are plenty of outside vendors that offer shifter linkage inline switches. Does anyone know about a generic switch that can be used in my linkage as a "quick-shift"?

All the switches I found online are for modern bikes that cut fuel via EFI. I'm guessing that it would be crude and not millisecond adjustable, but it might be an easy first step.

-Kevin

Kevin Dynojet makes a programmable ignition kill box that is set up for a two coil bike like yours. It is part number 4-124. It can be triggered by any N.O. switch. I have used these with the horn button or a Dynojet bar mount trigger switch as well as a dynojet kill switch that mounts in place of the shift rod. They work reliably and are programmable for kill times in the range you need (60 to 70 milliseconds). These are great for street racing or at the track up until you really get serious and then a air shifter setup is the only way to go. I prefer using a high pressure system using a CO2 bottle over air.