How to check your cam chain tensioner

[Anonymous]

Hi Guys,
I just had a look at my new cam chain tensioner and I figured out how to tell if your cam chain has gotten so long that the tensioner can now longer keep it tight.

As you turn the tensioner counter clockwise the knob moves outward towards you. When this happens the gap between the tensioner body and the knob grows. If you turn the tensioner back clockwise and the gap disappears completely this means that the tensioner has bottomed out and you need a new chain. (Please correct me if I am wrong guys)

The problem with my tensioner was that the spring that twists the tensioner clockwise was worn out and the cam chain was making a racket. If you develop this problem change the tensioner and/or chain before the chain skips a few teeth on the gears.

Steve

[Anonymous]

I just swapped tensioners and the bike sounds much better! I did not pull the carbs as the manual suggested and I think I saved a good 20 minutes on the job which took me 25 minutes in total.

Steve

[Billy Ricks]

CAM CHAIN TENSIONER

First, never turn the round knob on the cam chain tensioner unless you plan to remove it and go through the entire procedure that follows. Now as for how to check its operation.

With the tensioner removed from the cylinder block loosen the lock nut on the left side of the tensioner and back the slotted bolt out ? turn. Turn the knob on the right side of the tensioner, which in the Suzuki service manual is called a lock shaft handle, counterclock-wise. As you are turning the knob counterclock-wise push the pushrod all the way back. Keep turning the knob until it refuses to turn any further.

With the pushrod still pushed in as far as it will go tighten the slotted bolt so that the pushrod will not plunge out.

Remount the tensioner to the cylinder block. If the tensioner is not going in turn the crankshaft clockwise slowly to get slack in the cam chain on the intake side of the block.

Loosen the slotted bolt ? turn allowing the pushrod to advance towards the cam chain. Tighten the lock nut but leave the slotted bolt loose by that ? turn.

While turning the knob counterclock-wise, slowly rotate the crankshaft in reverse direction, counterclock-wise. This causes the chain to push the pushrod back.

Release the knob and slowly turn the crankshaft in the normal direction, clockwise. You should see the knob rotate as the chain becomes progressively slackened. If it does the pushrod is obviously moving forward under spring pressure signifying the tensioner is in good operable condition. If it moves sluggishly or not at all that means the pushrod or the slotted bolt is sticking. If so remove the tensioner from the block again and inspect the pushrod. It could need cleaning or could be bent or galled. Further crank rotation will take the slack out of the cam chain.

After the tensioner has been properly set up never attempt to turn that knob again in either direction unless you intend to remove it and go through the above procedure

[Don Lobacz]

Sorry, Billy, but I play with that knob all the time to make sure that it is free and applying pressure on the tapered rod. I spin it out a little while the bike is running until I hear the cam chain noise and then let the knob snap back in. I find that the movement does hang up from time to time and this keeps it free. I don't think it's caused a problem: 105,000 miles and counting.

[Billy Ricks]

Don,
Those instructions about not playing with that knob are per the Suzuki service manual. I think they know a little more about what you should and should not do with it than you or I. 99% of the time it might not be a problem, but that one time can lead to big trouble.

[Pillage]

CAM CHAIN TENSIONER

If it moves sluggishly or not at all that means the pushrod or the slotted bolt is sticking. If so remove the tensioner from the block again and inspect the pushrod. It could need cleaning or could be bent or galled.

"Clymer" recommends lightly greasing the pushrod and the opening in the tensioner body. I did this recently and the cam chain is noticably quieter.

[Don Lobacz]

Billy, I agree that there is the slight risk that if loosened too much this could possibly cause the cam chain to jump. I disagree that the whole unit has to be reset if the knob is touched. It is a continuous self-tightening process, and the knob spring supplies the pressure on the ramp. The spring motion hanging up or not moving freely is what causes problems. I suppose it would be safer to check for free-motion with the motor off, but it wouldn't be as much fun!

[Billy Ricks]

Don,
I'd be more worried about valve timing being changed to the point that if one isn't careful you could end up with bent valves. I've done it the way Suzuki recommends enough that it only takes about five minutes and it allows me to inspect the entire assembly. It sounds complicated just reading how they want it done. But once you've done it you see how simple it is. If what you're doing works for you then great. There may also be differences between yours and mine that account for the procedure Suzuki recommends. I know that 1999 and 2000 GSX-Rs, TLs, and Hayabusas had recalls on their tensioners.

[Jeff Tate]

This the reason I like my manual tensioner.

[Paul]

Got to agree with Don here.
This is a simple way of checking tensioner is working properly.
Obviously you just release tension until you hear chain noise, then when you let tensioner go back, chain noise stops & you know for certain that it is working OK.
Doing maintenance by the book is OK, but sometimes there are short cuts!
Paul
GS1000S, GS1000, + GS1000's....

[Anonymous]

Manual Cam Tensioner

Where can I get one of those manual Cam Tensioners for my 750. I sure have heard alot about them here.

[Anonymous]

I heard that you can chop up your automatic tentionser and make one. APE racing, and many others, have a manual tensioner.

[Anonymous]

Go to Biker 66 homepage he have instructions how to convert your tensior to manual. A very good site worth a visit

http://medlem.spray.se/biker66/index.html

Lars