Schematic and guide to fit relays

[tkent02]

But I have improved, I can already watch TV and handle a beer at the same time, so multitasking is something one can learn if its not in the genes.

You have skills, man!

[salty_monk]

Thanks for the PDF... has got me thinking. I will most likely just put a couple in for the coils but I may go the whole hog....

Cheers,

Dan

[KiwiGS]

Thanks mate!
I just did the coil mod and it worked a treat.
Also changed my fuseblock for a bladefuse block.
I will take some pics when I have my camera.
Cheers

[Matchless]

Hi KiwiGS,
Glad it has helped. Please let us have the pictures as my own modification is still pending for a few months.

[gaillarry]

Matchless: Great writeup. I have questions about the ignition coil relay. I have the same 5 pin relay as yours.

Why should the relay be close to the coils? I put mine on the side of the battery box.

I'm confused (which is normal) about the orange/white wires on the coils. The two original o/w wires on the coils go to inputs 87 on the relay, with new connectors.

"Cut the plugs off the killswitch side of the o/w wires, connect one wire to pin 86 and sleeve/wrap the other one". Where do I find the killswitch side????

[salty_monk]

The kill switch wire comes down from the handlebar (obviously) & joins into the main loom via one of the multi plugs there, about 6" back from the neck of the frame.

By Kill switch side I presume he means cut them before they hit the multi plug.

No reason you can't have your relays back there.... the wire runs all become much longer though (although the battery +12v to Relay runs will be shorter).

Dan

[Matchless]

Salty has already replied and covered all the points.
Basically you are just using the positive wire that powered your coil when the ignition and killswitch was on to operate the relay. As Salty also said putting it close to the coils allows you to use the same wire without having to lengthen it. This then means that only your new battery wire runs all the way from the battery box.
If you fit the relay on the battery box, you would have to extend the wire back to the relay and still run the new battery feed to the coils from the relay contact, so two long wires. Not a problem it will still do the job.


I have just replaced my fuse block for a 8 fuse one, that makes these extra dedicated feeds to the relays easier.

[GSJohn]

I will try later but the link on the first page to download the .pdf file is not working for me. It just stops with no explaination.

[Planecrazy]

Just a quick note on the waterproofing issue. With these plastic relays it is actually pretty easy to waterproof them yourself. Just use some high temperature silicone sealant (Form-A-Gasket works great for this) and a popsicle stick to seal up all the crevices where water could seep in, or even coat the entire bottom of the relay to be extra sure.

Just remember to make a note as to which terminals are which, since you'll be covering the identifying numbers with silicone when you waterproof the relay.

Although waterproofing the relay probably isn't necessary, it will prolong the life of the internal contacts over time and save you having to replace the relays as often.

Regards,

[Matchless]

Finally replaced my fuse block today:

[J_C]

Cool looks good! What'd you do to gang your inputs together?

[Matchless]

Cool looks good! What'd you do to gang your inputs together?

J_C,
I just bent the spade terminals in the same direction, wrapped some heavy copper wire around them and soldered. I then covered that with black silicon rubber inside a small channel bent up from the baseplate. The spade terminals have also been soldered permanently in place.
The extra fuses are for the coil, horn and headlight relay and a 12 Volt jack.

[dennis roy]

Well I have to say that I did the coil relay ad WOW what a difference in how it starts and runs. I did decide that after last weekend incident I am going to wire my bike so it won't run if the side stand is down. I found that the bulb burned out on my dash the hard way. I'll be making the change when i replace my guages, windshield, mirror, gas tank, and trunk. (that's the list so far)

[gaillarry]

I had a 2.9 voltage drop between the battery and coils. I just finished the coil mod and it's only a .2 volt drop !!!

[J_C]

J_C,
I just bent the spade terminals in the same direction, wrapped some heavy copper wire around them and soldered. I then covered that with black silicon rubber inside a small channel bent up from the baseplate. The spade terminals have also been soldered permanently in place.
The extra fuses are for the coil, horn and headlight relay and a 12 Volt jack.

Nice, looks good man. I've been trying to find a ganged 8 fuse panel that is vertical and easy to fit like that, just haven't been able to locate it yet. Your way should work just fine if I can't