Tips for Dips (it's me, I'm the dip)

[MisterCinders]

I have used grease crayons and other methods for marking carb bodies 1-4 before dipping them to keep them straight later. Having fumbled that with smeared markings etc., I had better luck with this method.

Use the float bowl screws to mark the carb body. There are four screws for each one, so while they are upside down and in order, put a screw in the positions like so:

1 . . . 2

3 . . . 4

You can then dip them, shuffle them, do whatever. When you flip them, though, the screws will tell you the order, and won't smear or get eaten up by the carb dip.

HTH

[cal_look_zero]

I study every carb body closely until I learn every little nick and discoloration. I even name them so I can keep track of them easier. Lord Frederick von Liederhosen, Lief Erickson, Captain Piccard, and Ivan Drago.

Your idea might work better though

[Agemax]

you could use an automatic centre punch and mark the bodies 1,2,3,4 on the inner faces where it cant be seen

[Flaming Chainsaws]

I dip the carbs one by one. That way I know exactly which carb I'm working and won't get confused and mixing parts. Although the downside is that it takes a little longer.

[rapidray]

you could use an automatic centre punch and mark the bodies 1,2,3,4 on the inner faces where it cant be seen

BINGO!!! Winner, winner, chicken dinner!!! Same way I have been doing it for more than 30 years! Mark them behind where the long mounting bar covers each carb! Ray.

[rangerdanger]

i use zip ties. 1 zip tie for number 1, 2 zip ties for number 2, and so on...

Or since i only have a gallon of berrymans and only one cv carb fits in well, i just do one at a time. How i did the 450. I did all four VM on the 550 at my work in a 35gal drum of parts cleaner. Worked a charm.

[Steve]

I just learned where the vent lines, gas inputs and throttle linkages need to be.

I have a box of carb bodies and can reach in, grab one and tell you which one it is.

With my luck, I would forget the meaning of my marking system.

.

[MisterCinders]

I just learned where the vent lines, gas inputs and throttle linkages need to be.

I have a box of carb bodies and can reach in, grab one and tell you which one it is.

With my luck, I would forget the meaning of my marking system.

.

My carbs are VM26s.

The main gas input is on a T-link, not the carb.

The vent lines and vacuum port look identical on the carb bodies.

The throttle linkages are on the carb rack, not the carb body.

You can identify the 1 and 4 bodies by looking through the fuel inputs because they don't go all the way through. The 2 and 3 bodies are trickier, though not impossible. Both have fuel inputs and outputs, but you have to check the air screws to figure out which is which.

Or you can mark them with a screw.

[Nessism]

Even though I mention to do so in my carb rebuild tutorial, I don't mark anything, nor do I worry about putting parts back in the original carb other than the float needle with the same seat. Most everything in the carbs is interchangeable so why make it harder than necessary?

[tkent02]

Marking them is silly. One and four are obvious. Two and three take one second of looking to determine which position it is for.

VM, look at how the vent or vacuum nipple is drilled. #2 is like #4, drilled through to the float chamber. #3 is different, drilled through to the Venturi.

ON the CV, look at the vacuum port. It's on #2.

[Gonzo]

I feel like the odd duck using masking tape and a marker.

[MisterCinders]

Marking them is silly. One and four are obvious. Two and three take one second of looking to determine which position it is for.

VM, look at how the vent or vacuum nipple is drilled. #2 is like #4, drilled through to the float chamber. #3 is different, drilled through to the Venturi.

ON the CV, look at the vacuum port. It's on #2.

Or just look at the fuel ports - 1/4 dead end, 2/3 go through - and use the air screws to keep 2 and 3 straight.

Tape and marker don't seem to survive carb dip very well.