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    #16
    Loose valves are unlikely in your motor unless someone previously set them too loose. With your valve configuration, the valves get tighter with wear. I have seen quite a few GS650s that have had the cam chain tensioner gum up and stop working. Since you have the carbs off, it is very easy to access. When the tensioner is out, DO NOT rotate the motor. Disassemble the tensioner, clean it with kerosene or brake cleaner, check for worn parts, reassemble it correctly, reset and install it correctly (do you have a manual?) and see if that doesn't help.

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      #17
      I will do that to. I guess every little thing could help. I'm picking up my manual tomorrow.

      Josh

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        #18
        It should look like this.

        Earl







        [quote="kingoftheroad"]Is this the tool I need?
        All the robots copy robots.

        Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

        You are free to choose, but you are not free from the consequences of your choices.

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          #19
          The intake clearances usually don't need touching. The exhaust clearances can get smaller. Shims should only need doing every 20-50,oookm once the bike is run in.

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            #20
            I MADE THE TOOL FROM A SMALL SHOCK WRENCH AND MY DIE GRINDER

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              #21
              Well I got the carbs back on and took it for a ride. Felt great , but the noise I heard before was not there instead of hearing a knocking noise it sounded like a chain whiring. Is that normal? It sounds a lot better than it did, but I just want to make sure that it is normal.


              Josh

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                #22
                Josh,

                Did you pull and clean the tensioner while the carbs were off? The sound as described is almost definitely the cam chain.

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                  #23
                  I pulled the tensioner, but it seemed to be working fine. Is there a certian adjustment that I need to do?

                  Josh

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                    #24
                    The tensioner is self-adjusting. Just because you cannot physically force the plunger in doesn't mean it's working right. The ramps need to be inspected for scoring, the parts and passages need to be cleaned, the spring may have lost some tension, etc... Most importantly, it needs to be reset/reinstalled correctly per the manual.

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                      #25
                      My freakin manual doesn't give the setting or specs. It just tells me how to take it apart. :twisted: Why did I pay $30 for something that doesn't really help.

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                        #26
                        I am guessing it is a Haynes manual?

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                          #27
                          How big is Texas? Can Hap come and help you?

                          (just kiddin')

                          Resetting is accomplished by withdrawing the plunger fully into the tensioner body (by turning the knob on most GS models while pushing the plunger in) and then locking the plunger in place with the side bolt. The tensioner is then bolted into place into the motor, after which the locking side bolt is released (backed out until you hear the "snap". Do not turn the bolt in after this, but rather tighten the locknut on the bolt to hold it in place). I can find a GS650 tensioner somewhere in my garage to reference if you need more specifics.

                          Again, it is very important that the tensioner is working properly. Damage to the ramps will allow the plunger to back off a little, creating noise.

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                            #28
                            Actually Mark it is a Clymer, but pretty much the same. Good guess!
                            I will take the tensioner off again in a couple of days. Thanks.

                            Josh

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                              #29
                              Finally!
                              I pulled the carbs again and properly adjusted the tensioner. Purrs like a kitten! Hopefully no more noise. Thank you guys for all the help.

                              josh

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