More everything, for nothing please

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  • crayonjota
    #1

    More everything, for nothing please

    Ok, I have been riding this GS for a month now and really have the hang of it. Problem is, nothing has broken in a couple of weeks and I am itching to do something. I wirebrushed, then wet and dried and then alloy polished the crankcases and blah,blah,blah...

    What I need is to be scared to whack it right open again. It pulls to 7000 rpm in top gear that works out to about 220kph (both needles are moving around like crazy)

    My questions are two;

    1) How do I get a little, or a lot more grunt, without spending much money (I already have a 4-1, new oil/filters/points/coils and condensors and nice plugs) A cheap tweak that a car guy wouldn't know but obvious to bikers would be nice.

    2. I want to run the pegs a little more rearward, and think that a bit of grinding and welding to place the peg slap bang between the two securing bolts will do it. I am man size (US 12 shoes) and believe that I will not need to shorten either brake or gear selector lever. Anybody done this? Were the results good, or should I have a couple of pegs and levers fabricated at my friendly neighourhood torneria? I pay about $10 an hour for this.
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    • Billy Ricks
      #2
      A little ignition advance usually gives you more power off the line. If you really want to wake that puppy up a set of RS flatslides, but they aren't cheap.

      I've bolted a set of used GSXR rearsets onto my bike. Got them off of Ebay cheap.

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        • Dink
          #3
          Not exactly free, unless you slot your own cam sprockets! But degreeing in your cams is a useful mod that is mostly time rather than money.
          You need to initially check to see how far from right they are compared to stock( I have heard of them being 15degrees out ex-factory) then you set them up to 106 degree centres for more grunt or 110 degrees for more topend .
          Dink

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            • crayonjota
              #4
              Originally posted by Dink
              Not exactly free, unless you slot your own cam sprockets! But degreeing in your cams is a useful mod that is mostly time rather than money.
              You need to initially check to see how far from right they are compared to stock( I have heard of them being 15degrees out ex-factory) then you set them up to 106 degree centres for more grunt or 110 degrees for more topend .
              Dink
              Close to free. I will have my friendly neighourhood precision mechanic take care of that while I am racing next weekend. He owes me a favour. No doubt he will try to convince me to go silly with reprofile the cams, a head skim and why not put in oversize valves too? I would sell it for something more scary, but I am attached to the way it looks and handles, (most people think it is an oversize messenger/pizza bike till I blow past them) plus I actually fit on the thing and dont look like kingKong on a clown's minibike prop.

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                • HiSPL
                  #5
                  I wouldn't do anything that raises compression on a street ridden bike. The air cooled engine doesn't take to compression ratio hikes very easily. If you have an oil cooler on it then maybe you could go up to 10.5 to 1 but thats about it.

                  Degree the cams, advance the ignition, and make sure your coils are getting enough power. (more than 12 volts while running) Then read your plugs and rejet accordingly. The bike may not make much more power, but the delivery will be excellent. lofting the front wheel coming off of corners shouldn't be a problem :twisted: ...

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                    • crayonjota
                      #6
                      Originally posted by HiSPL
                      The bike may not make much more power, but the delivery will be excellent. lofting the front wheel coming off of corners shouldn't be a problem :twisted: ...
                      I think I have gone as far as I can go without spending money. It pulls cleanly from about 2,500rpm to about 8,500, the carbs are balanced and the front wheel lifts with a twist of the throttle. Around town I can drop to about 40kph in 5th and still pull away without snatching or bogging, or I can drop it down to 2nd and really pull away, or spin the tyre up, whichever.

                      My van has too much compression and too wild a cam profile and is a pig around town, with no power at all below 3000rpm and a paddle clutch which doesnt like to be slipped...

                      I like to come home from a ride on the bike relaxed, so I will degree the cams and see what works for me.

                      Will update in a week or so.

                      :twisted:

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