Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Polishing techniques

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    Just don't go as high with the wet sanding, likely stop at 1000 grit. I think some people are getting good polished aluminum by just using a pad. Ask Nessism, he's got it down pretty good.....oh, he beat me to it.
    Rob
    1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
    Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533

    Comment


      #17
      I recently finished some heavily corroded Kawasaki engine covers and first thing I'll say is hand sanding is for the birds. Glass bead blast, 220 grit on a DA, heavy sisal wheel on powerful buffer along with black cutting compound. F hand sanding. F buffing wheels. Get the heavy duty $hit and have at it. You are going to need some heavy gloves because the aluminum gets HOT when you are hammering away with the sisal!
      Ed

      To measure is to know.

      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

      Comment


        #18
        I recently made a tail piece for the BSA out of a prop spinner off an aircraft, after giving any obvious scratches a hit with the triangular orbital sander I buffed it up with a nylon Scotch Brite type wheel. Then it with medium polishing paste (brown) and finishing if off on another cloth wheel with autosol. The final finish is with the Metal Reflection finishing fluid, great for protecting the finish as well.
        have a bowl of water handy to rinse off excess wax and keep the item cool, polishing waxes tend to hate hot surfaces.



        Comment

        Working...
        X