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Cleaning old wiring for soldering or crimping and DIY DeOxit

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    Cleaning old wiring for soldering or crimping and DIY DeOxit

    How to Perfectly Clean Wires in Minutes!!!: Here is an old ham radio operators trick for cleaning wires for soldering that are old and corroded.  It is hard to find this technique printed anywhere! I am a ham, NH7ZE, and learned it from my elmer (mentor). I am passing it on.  I hope…


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    Here is an old ham radio operators trick for cleaning wires for soldering that are old and corroded. It is hard to find this technique printed anywhere! I am a ham, NH7ZE, and learned it from my elmer (mentor). I am passing it on. I hope it helps people who need to clean wires:P Please vote!!!

    Normally, if you strip a wire, and see it is corroded, there is not much you can do to restore it's shiny new conductive properties. There is scraping and scratching which comes to mind, but you'll never get it to the solderable slickness it once was long ago. After laboring and fretting over the corroded pieces of wire for a long, long time, you see that your sweat coming out of your palms and fingers are corroding the copper AGAIN!!!! Oh, dear. NOT TO WORRY!!!!! Give yourself a pat on the back, because what you will pull out of your bag of tricks now, will send all the corroded copper wires scurrying and scampering away in fear!!!! Here is how to clean any corroded wire without even touching it, in 30 seconds!! And what's more, you can even solder it!!!

    This process uses two solutions, one is regular table salt and vinegar. Any kind of vinegar will work, from balsamic, to rice, to white vinegars. Its the acidity and corrosiveness of the salt and vinegar together that you want. The other solution is Sodium Bicarbonate, or baking soda, and water. This is used to neutralize the corrosive properties of the other solution, and to further clean the wires.

    Step 1: Strip the wires to be cleaned.

    Step 2: Get 2 containers, one for each solution. They can be paper cups, plastic, glass, bowls, whatever you can find. I have vials, because I am a professional electronics installer and I use these solutions out in the field.

    Step 3: Get 1 tablespoon of raw salt, and put it in one of the containers. Fill up the rest of the container with vinegar, and stir the both together. As a general rule of thumb, put as much salt in the vinegar as will dissolve.

    Step 4: Get 1 tablespoon of Sodium Bicarbonate, (baking soda) and add it to the other container. Fill up the rest with water, and stir well. Add more baking soda to make it cloudy. The amount is not important, as long as it is alkaline to cancel the acid of the vinegar solution.

    Step 5: Put the stripped end of the wire in the vinegar solution, and stir the solution with the wire. any wire you want cleaned needs to be under the solution. Movement of the wire in the liquid speeds up the process.

    Step 6: After 2 minutes or so, the wire will look very shiny and new in the vinegar solution. The acid and salt in the solution is etching away the oxides, exposing the bare metal. Make sure the metal is uniformly shiny. Leave it in longer if it is not perfectly clean throughout.

    Step 7: Once the wire is satisfactorily clean, remove the wire from the vinegar, and plunge it into the baking soda solution to neutralize the acid's corrosive properties. If the wire was exposed to the air, without neutralizing the acid first, it would quickly corrode again. The baking soda keeps it clean and shiny. Swish the wire around in the baking soda water for about 10 seconds, and then you are done!! Shiny new wire ready for soldering, and conducting once again!!
    Being heartily put off by the rip-off price of DeOxit this side of the pond, I was determined to find an alternative.
    A recent search revealed that DeOxit was previously sold under a different name and the origins of it can be traced back to the 1930s in Germany, where it was concocted and used for cleaning motor armatures.
    Its traditional formulation was simply a 5% solution of Oleic Acid in naptha.
    Armed with that information, I simply bought a 250ml bottle of OA and some barbeque lighter fluid. Around here, BBQ fluid is heavy naptha - it might not be that where you are. Light naptha (Zippo fluid) will do, but will evap a lot quicker.
    The solution works very well - squirt and brush it in, let sit for a minute or two, brush it again and the crap disappears when you then flush it with brake cleaner. As a finishing touch I like to leave some silicone spray in the joint as a little bit of protection, but dialectric grease or whatever you have to hand will do.
    Last edited by Grimly; 07-26-2016, 05:18 PM.
    ---- Dave
    79 GS850N - Might be a trike soon.
    80 GS850T Single HIF38 S.U. SH775, Tow bar, Pantera II. Gnarly workhorse & daily driver.
    79 XS650SE - Pragmatic Ratter - goes better than a manky old twin should.
    92 XJ900F - Fairly Stock, for now.

    Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

    #2
    Sounds like a recipe for homemade flux.

    A selection of the alternative commercial offerings.

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      #3
      Excellent post. I was pretty surprised that DeOxit works for this purpose; I was accustomed to the 'mini-wire wheel on the Dremel' routine, and it really gets tiring and time-consuming. I will try your trick the next time the opportunity (or chore...) presents itself.
      and God said, "Let there be air compressors!"
      __________________________________________________ ______________________
      2009 Suzuki DL650 V-Strom, 2004 HondaPotamus sigpic Git'cha O-ring Kits Here!

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        #4
        +1! Keep those recipes coming! PS: Coleman Stove Fuel ("or white gas" for Optimus stoves) is naptha. (ps-ps: and, with a dash of kero or paintthinner works very well in zippo lighters, naptha being a bit too "light" for them)

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          #5
          I've been using Radio Shack's version of DeOxit and it seems to work really well. A few seconds after spraying the contacts look shiny and clean, and I measure very little resistance in the circuits where I've used it.

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            #6
            Had some stuff called Mechanic All that worked very well.


            Life is too short to ride an L.

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              #7
              I confirm Grimly's "vinegar/salt + Baking soda/water tip" works very well! ...I am replacing an old fuse panel in an old sailboat and it took the black or green crap off the wire tout suite. Wish I'd known this years ago!

              Comment


                #8
                I've tried various types of acid (phosphoric, HCl, vinegar) to clean corroded brass terminals but never had much success. It makes me nervous leaving the terminals in acid for more than a few minutes since doing so one time turned the brass sort of reddish colored. Physically cleaning the terminals seems like a more robust solution, although that isn't really practical for those small female terminals plugged into plastic shells. Deoxit also doesn't seem to do much either, at least the plastic safe stuff. Given a chance I'll pull the terminals and hit them with a stainless steel wire wheel to physically remove the brown corrosion. I suppose the acid and Deoxit is better than nothing though.
                Ed

                To measure is to know.

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                Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

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                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                  I've tried various types of acid (phosphoric, HCl, vinegar) to clean corroded brass terminals but never had much success. It makes me nervous leaving the terminals in acid for more than a few minutes since doing so one time turned the brass sort of reddish colored. Physically cleaning the terminals seems like a more robust solution, although that isn't really practical for those small female terminals plugged into plastic shells. Deoxit also doesn't seem to do much either, at least the plastic safe stuff. Given a chance I'll pull the terminals and hit them with a stainless steel wire wheel to physically remove the brown corrosion. I suppose the acid and Deoxit is better than nothing though.
                  As I have often repeated use some naval jelly for about 10-15 min max and wash with water comes out great.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    It's spelled naphtha. I missed it once on a spelling test. Who knows maybe there are alternative spellings. Just wanted to throw that out there. Carry on.
                    1983 GS 1100 Guided Laser
                    1983 GS 1100 G
                    2000 Suzuki Intruder 1500, "Piggy Sue"
                    2000 GSF 1200 Bandit (totaled in deer strike)
                    1986 Suzuki Cavalcade GV 1400 LX (SOLD)

                    I find working on my motorcycle mildly therapeutic when I'm not cursing.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by 1948man View Post
                      It's spelled naphtha. I missed it once on a spelling test. Who knows maybe there are alternative spellings. Just wanted to throw that out there. Carry on.
                      I've always known it as naptha - it's one of those words that gained or lost something in its transatlantic crossing, though oddly Coleman stoves use it in that spelling, at least when sold by Canadian Tire. http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/coleman-naptha-camping-stove-0762043p.html

                      And the Fels-Naptha soap that many a country kid had his neck scrubbed with
                      Last edited by Grimly; 08-11-2016, 09:53 PM.
                      ---- Dave
                      79 GS850N - Might be a trike soon.
                      80 GS850T Single HIF38 S.U. SH775, Tow bar, Pantera II. Gnarly workhorse & daily driver.
                      79 XS650SE - Pragmatic Ratter - goes better than a manky old twin should.
                      92 XJ900F - Fairly Stock, for now.

                      Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Well seeing as corrosion is a chemical reaction it makes sense that a chemical reaction can reverse the process.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I just bring all the ends together and stuff them into a soup can. Fill with white vinegar and blow dry with the air hose the next morning. some dielectric grease and done.
                          MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                          1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                          NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


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