Fork Seals - GS850GT

[BassCliff]

Hi,

After riding around on the new Jessie Blue, I noticed my right fork was leaking a bit more than I like. Before my crash it would have a little residue on the fork tube after a few days and I would just wipe it with a shop rag. But now it's weeping a little more and actually built up a little layer of dusty grime below the dust seal. I should have taken a picture before I cleaned it up. It's not a bad leak but it's weeping a bit too much and I'd rather take care of it sooner than later.

I needed to order a vacuum sync adapter kit anyways, so I logged on to Z1 Enterprises and ordered some 10wt fork oil since the 15wt I put in with my new Progressive fork springs made the front a little harsher than before. I also ordered new dust covers and fork seals. Since I have no specialty tools I also ordered the Motion Pro circlip pliers and adjustable seal puller.

Did I miss anything?


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Steve]

Did I miss anything?

The only thing I can think of that you missed is the update to your sig, showing the new "Jessie Blue".

.

[salty_monk]

PVC pipe makes a good seal driver to put the new ones in... You must have the tool or broom handle to get the damper rod out I would think.....

[BassCliff]

The only thing I can think of that you missed is the update to your sig, showing the new "Jessie Blue".

How's that Steve?


Thanks Dan. I'm going to buy/borrow a couple of long ratchet extensions to get my socket down in the fork lowers for the damper rod.

Hmmm, can I re-use #9? (Gasket, part# 51148-41310)




Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[LarryA_Texas]

o rings

Did you order new o-rings, #22 and 25? I would think once in there it would be worthwhile to replace them.

And I used two 12" socket extensions to get down the fork tube and it worked fine.

I've read several places here about adding a PVC pipe extension to help compress those old springs. I had an extra spring and cut two sections out of it, about 4" each and put them down the tube on top of the existing spring.

The main reason I added so much is because I put new shocks on the rear and needed some extra length on the front to balance it back out. It raised it about an inch. But overall was a huge improvement in the ride.

[SqDancerLynn1]

Most people do not use air in the forks when switching to the progressive fork springs, no need to replace the O rings.
I have a long extension and a threaded rod with nuts on it that I used on Mine if you want to borrow it..

[twr1776]

Cliff, I always replace # 5, 9 & 12 although you can re-use them as well. For the few bucks it seems worth it to me but I admit to being a bit "zealous" on replaceing rubber grommets & other "detail" items.

[waterman]

Do you have an impact gun? I have found it easier to use my air impact gun to remove the bottom bolt (#8), no need for extensions to hold damper rod. You will need a long metric allen socket to reach it.

One little tip on the new fork seals, I use the plastic bag that they come in to protect the seal as I slide it down the tube. I wrap the bag or other plastic around the top of the tube and then insert seal over bag and slide down to where it will be installed and then remove plastic. Often the top of the fork tube has sharp spots that can ruin a seal even before you can get it installed. It may be my folly to believe that a little plastic can protect a seal but I hate having to redo fork seals, DAMHIK

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Thanks everyone. It looks like I could have ordered a few more rubber bits to do a thorough job. This time I'm hoping to get by with just the seals and dust covers, cleaning everything up, and replacing the fork oil. Since I'm no longer using air in the forks perhaps the other O-rings and such will be OK one more round. I'll let you know.

I'll be sure to grab some pictures, maybe write up another "how to".


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff