Using GS1150 bars on GSXR triple tree

[Colin Green]

Colin,
Looks like you made some good progress. Here a few of points. You might have already thought of it but if not.......

1.) make sure that the clock and lock portion of the 1150 triple is at the right height. Mine was off and I had to persuade the key lock stop up to catch.

2.) make sure you measure the max steering angle (with gsxr forks and gas tank installed) as it is probably smaller than the 1150. I set mine to the +/-40 degrees of the 1100ED, but that was too much and the forks would touch the tank. Rob said he would make the stops a little short and then trim the stops to get to the right angle.

3.) As you probably figured, my welder first welded the two sides of the clock/lock portion to establish the spacing and then cut off that center portion. He completed the welding then.

4.) You should also pull out the rubber bushings for the clocks.

5.) On the steering stops, I had a couple of short logs welded all around except at the end where the stop mets the frame. To add additional strength the welder drilled from the bottom and welded from underneath as well.

Thanks, hadn't thought of 3 and 5 at all.

1. I have got the height set the same relative to the top of the clamp. I don't have a Key lock stop to worry about

2. I have a complete EF sitting in the garage so was able to determine that the existing forks clear the tank by about 10mm. The clearance between the bars and tank is just enough to fit your fingers in but as I'm going to run with the longer riser clip-ons, I figured I could close the gap down to a couple of mm between the forks and tank. Allowing for the slightly narrower fork centers and taking my set up cue from the position of the EF stops relative to the inside edge of the spindle and fork hole on the EF bottom triple (which happened to line up nicely by straight edge with the near corner of the stops). I was then able to use the distance (31mm) from the edge of the spindle to the stops along the line of the straight edge (which I set about 6 - 7mm in from the edge of the fork). Hopefully that will result in about 3- 4mm of clearance from the tank which I can then adjust by grinding a little off the stops. Fingers crossed. It would be nice to improve on the very limited steering lock on the EF.

3. I hadn't picked up on that little gem. I left it in place to avoid working with too many little pieces. As a result, the mounting points are actually 6 or 7mm further forward of the fork centers relative to the EF triple set up which works with the plastic yoke cover. I attempted to compenstae by back cutting the section with the mounting points so that it will hopefully angle the top of the lock with the hole in the yoke cover (in case I decide to use it.). The back cut angle can be seen in the 4th photo. Yes, now that I know, I will cut the center out as it will look nicer.

4. Will do. I had thought of that one (along with the following fight to squeeze them back in).

5. The old hole through the bottom trick eh! Good idea thanks.

[posplayr]

Colin,

A couple question s and more things occurred to me.

Jim

Thanks, hadn't thought of 3 and 5 at all.

1. I have got the height set the same relative to the top of the clamp. I don't have a Key lock stop to worry about

why don't you have an ignition key steering lock?

2. I have a complete EF sitting in the garage so was able to determine that the existing forks clear the tank by about 10mm. The clearance between the bars and tank is just enough to fit your fingers in but as I'm going to run with the longer riser clip-ons, I figured I could close the gap down to a couple of mm between the forks and tank. Allowing for the slightly narrower fork centers and taking my set up cue from the position of the EF stops relative to the inside edge of the spindle and fork hole on the EF bottom triple (which happened to line up nicely by straight edge with the near corner of the stops). I was then able to use the distance (31mm) from the edge of the spindle to the stops along the line of the straight edge (which I set about 6 - 7mm in from the edge of the fork). Hopefully that will result in about 3- 4mm of clearance from the tank which I can then adjust by grinding a little off the stops. Fingers crossed. It would be nice to improve on the very limited steering lock on the EF.

Just so you have fork stanchion to gas tank clearance at the stop locks.

3. I hadn't picked up on that little gem. I left it in place to avoid working with too many little pieces. As a result, the mounting points are actually 6 or 7mm further forward of the fork centers relative to the EF triple set up which works with the plastic yoke cover. I attempted to compenstae by back cutting the section with the mounting points so that it will hopefully angle the top of the lock with the hole in the yoke cover (in case I decide to use it.). The back cut angle can be seen in the 4th photo. Yes, now that I know, I will cut the center out as it will look nicer.

Decide to use the cover or the ignition lock stop?


4. Will do. I had thought of that one (along with the following fight to squeeze them back in).

5. The old hole through the bottom trick eh! Good idea thanks.

6. It would be stronger to weld from underneath as well as from the top (both sides) of the clock/lock section so you will need to clean that paint off as well.

7. I'm not sure if you had planned on welding the clipon's to the bars but if you are going to bolt them on then you are likely to not have enough meat in the triple clamp to tap a hole and it is not flat underneath for a backing nut and washer. My welder added a chunk of aluminum (welded in place) to give extra thickness and a flat spot . This was for a set of bolt on risers for the 91 GSXR triple but same idea.

With a close fit between the clipon and the top of the triple(and a strong bold ), that would make welding of the clipon not nessesary.

8.) How did you make that nice cut across the triple? It looks like you started with a hacksaw, but then did a plunge cut. Circular blade?

[Colin Green]

Colin,

A couple question s and more things occurred to me.

Jim

6. It would be stronger to weld from underneath as well as from the top (both sides) of the clock/lock section so you will need to clean that paint off as well.

7. I'm not sure if you had planned on welding the clipon's to the bars but if you are going to bolt them on then you are likely to not have enough meat in the triple clamp to tap a hole and it is not flat underneath for a backing nut and washer. My welder added a chunk of aluminum (welded in place) to give extra thickness and a flat spot . This was for a set of bolt on risers for the 91 GSXR triple but same idea.

With a close fit between the clipon and the top of the triple(and a strong bold ), that would make welding of the clipon not nessesary.

8.) How did you make that nice cut across the triple? It looks like you started with a hacksaw, but then did a plunge cut. Circular blade?

Hi and many thanks again Jim (who also just helped me score some cheap rotors)

1. I don't know. It seems to be ignition only. No lock pin.

2. Yes that is the aim

3. Yes I was meaning the plastic yoke cover. (this set up may yet be re-used on my other EF as a naked set up as opposed to Baz's Moto Guzzi LeMans Mk4 fairing.

6. Already removed paint along the bottom edge for welding. Cheers.

7. Yes I had seen that one coming and was going to ask the person who will be doing the weld to look into that. Though I had thought about welding a nut there or building it up with weld.

8. I used a straight edge to mark it then a thin blade on a 4" angle grinder doing a progressive back and forward plunge cut. Although I have done little metal work I am used to doing similar cutting in timber so have a little bit of tool handling skill and confidence. I actually left too much meat on with the initial cut and had to cut another 4mm off then finished it on my belt sander to flatten it out nicer.

[posplayr]

Colin,
Well I went a little overboard also having the air collars bored so they would slide over the 41mm forks .

This might be behind your fairing so not visible that it is missing.
Jim

[Colin Green]

Colin,
Well I went a little overboard also having the air collars bored so they would slide over the 41mm forks .

This might be behind your fairing so not visible that it is missing.
Jim

No air collars either. Oil and spring only