MityVac MV8000

[Vmass]

After rebuilding my front calipers, master cylinder and replacing all the front brake lines, I decided I would buy the MV8000 and give it a try.

I don't recall bleeding brakes in the past, so I will consider this my first attempt.

I wrapped the two bleeders with teflon tape and started with the right caliper. No problem getting the fluid to flow. Very quickly I saw large air bubbles, followed by very tiny consistent air bubbles.

I then moved on to the left caliper with similar results.

I tied the brake lever back over night and found no leaks in the morning. The wheel spins freely apon lever release and seems to move both calipers properly.

The bike is not road raod worhty, so no road test is possible at this time.

I consider it a success, with my only concern being the continous tiny air bubbles.

I am thinking that it was either a leak around the bleeder or the connection between the hose and the bleeder.

Should I be concerned?

[chuck hahn]

I get the little bubbles from around the threads sometimes too.Some say use antiseize instead of tape cuz it seals the threads better..I dont do either personally. I just suck a few resivoirs full thru to be sure that all the air in the lines and calipers is out. Ive never had any problems with sponginess or other braking problems.

[Nessism]

Agree with chuck. Don't worry about small air bubbles if using a vacuum system. Draw enough fluid though the system to feel confident and call it done.

[TheCafeKid]

Yeah the "fitting" for the bleeder on those MityVacs arent really great so you'll suck air around it, and if you hadn't taped the bleeders sometimes you'll get some air from around those as well.
Incidentally, when bleeding your brakes, you should start from the farthest point from the MC, in this case the left hand caliper. I don't know that it matters much on the standard brake systems, but on the bikes with anti-dive it's important to start with the left anti-dive, then left caliper and work your way back. According to the manual anyway

[Vmass]

Thanks for the replies. With what the 3 of you said, I consider a success.

I may go at it onemore time and start from the left side. It is only a 10 minute job and a buck or so worth of fluid.

One final note, not a drop of brake fluid on the calipers. This mityvac was definately worth the money.

[chuck hahn]

Actually Josh, I had read in one of Cliffs manuals that with the dual front calipers they state a recommended caliper to start with..Im about 75 % sure its the right side..but its been a while since ive cruised the 1000 series manuals. May be worth a bit of a refresher read.

[TheCafeKid]

Actually Josh, I had read in one of Cliffs manuals that with the dual front calipers they state a recommended caliper to start with..Im about 75 % sure its the right side..but its been a while since ive cruised the 1000 series manuals. May be worth a bit of a refresher read.

I'll give it a look, but from car to bike, every one I've ever worked on I've started farthest away from the MC. And I KNOW for a fact the shop manual for my ex 1100ES told you to start from the left anti-dive unit, then left caliper, right anti-dive, right caliper... Doesn't really make any sense at all to me why you'd do it the other way.

[chuck hahn]

Only thing i can say is i make darn well sure each is bled to the extreme and there arent any leaks..LOL And note that i was referring to what i recall for like the early 78/79 1000s without all the antidive, so that may indeed impose a different sequence like you said.