brake bleeding again...

[subforry]

... and again, and some more.

I have read many threads about brake bleeding and the tips in Bass Cliff's site. I will get right to the problem - spongy lever that goes to the grip. The air is in the calipers. I know this because I used line clamps right above both calipers and the lever is hard. The problem started when I replaced the lines and rebuilt the calipers. I have used my mighty vac and the old lever down bleeder open/closed technique.

Any ideas?

New crush washers, pads, hoses (OEM), caliper seals and dust boot, rebuilt MC, and lots of fluid.

I used Teflon tape on the bleeders. The mighty vac has never pulled solid fluid, but plenty of fluid from the reservoir.

Right now I used the MC and line clamp to pressurize the system and tied the lever down. I will leave it over night and see what happens.

Thanks in advance.

P.S. I was wondering if I should lean the bike to the right to bleed left caliper and vice versa for the right side

[RobG1970]

... and again, and some more.

I have read many threads about brake bleeding and the tips in Bass Cliff's site. I will get right to the problem - spongy lever that goes to the grip. The air is in the calipers. I know this because I used line clamps right above both calipers and the lever is hard. The problem started when I replaced the lines and rebuilt the calipers. I have used my mighty vac and the old lever down bleeder open/closed technique.

Any ideas?

New crush washers, pads, hoses (OEM), caliper seals and dust boot, rebuilt MC, and lots of fluid.

I used Teflon tape on the bleeders. The mighty vac has never pulled solid fluid, but plenty of fluid from the reservoir.

Right now I used the MC and line clamp to pressurize the system and tied the lever down. I will leave it over night and see what happens.

Thanks in advance.

P.S. I was wondering if I should lean the bike to the right to bleed left caliper and vice versa for the right side

have you taken the caliper off yet >?? if so how did the dust boot look>>>? you may want to look into a rebuild kit there, it may be the sorce of you leak... are you also bleeding farthers to closet to the brake master cylindar>>? ( left to right)

[GateKeeper]

he has a spongy lever

not a leak

my gizmo for brake bleeding...





.

[RobG1970]

[QUOTE=GateKeeper;1671609]he has a spongy lever

not a leak

.[/QUOTEft

ok, when bleeding him, do you do left to right side>??? have you flushed all the fuild>??? do you use Dot 3 or 4>?? when does is seem the spongyest>?? is it all the time, or when the brakes is hot>?? are the brake pad in spec>?

[subforry]

rebuilt both calipers with new OEM parts.

Castrol GT LMA DOT4 - who would use anything less?

Yes, bled left then right (furthest from the MC to closest).

There is no pressure in the lever, riding it would very dumb. I am very frustrated because I have not been able to ride it.

[RobG1970]

rebuilt both calipers with new OEM parts.

Castrol GT LMA DOT4 - who would use anything less?

Yes, bled left then right (furthest from the MC to closest).

There is no pressure in the lever, riding it would very dumb. I am very frustrated because I have not been able to ride it.

sorry, I understand you frustration. have you replaced the brake lines them self.???? after time they start to flex, I myself are going to replace mine with stainless, when the budget lets me... also, how is the master cylindar>>> maybe time for a rebuild.????

[Baatfam]

I had the same issue after rebuilding everything...

Read this post, it worked for me...

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1008761&postcount=5

[Missile99]

Are the calipers on their respective sides and the bleeders on top? It seems like you have done everything right and this is just a possibility that comes to mind. From what I have seen on vehicles/bikes they can be mounted on the wrong side with the only problem being the bleeder screw on the bottom not letting all the air escape. You shouldn't have to lean the bike.

I'm also guessing you don't have as fancy a brake setup as GateKeeper. Me neither.
I also don't have a sweet project/rebuild thread like he does.


Have a good weekend everyone.

[bccap]

A little plumbers tape on the bleeder threads can help. I also hold the mityvac fitting firmly on the bleeder. And make sure it is still sucking when I tighten it back up. Also do not reuse the brake fluid you are bleeding with.

[subforry]

Thanks all, it is working but I think there might still be some air in the calipers.

Baatfam's advice got it working enough to try a test drive. I could still pull the lever to the grip. After the drive I pulled the calipers, with the pads in place I pulled the lever several times till the piston stopped and then pushed in back in. I did this 3 or 4 times on each side, reattached the calipers and did a quick bleed. Now I can't pull the lever to the grip but it does not feel quite right yet. i will try some easy trips and then bleed it again.

My advice is if you rebuild the calipers, move the piston in and out several times.

Also I think it is a good idea to turn the bars away from the side you bleeding. This makes sure the bleed screw channel is at the highest point.

[Guest]

Bleed the master cylinder without the lever using a screwdriver to push in the piston. There is a bit of air that gets trapped since the lever does not push the piston in the whole way.