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anti-dive device
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anti-dive device
I've got a leak between the upper and lower halves of the anti-dive unit on my '83 GS1100. I torqued it to the 3.0lb-ft per the service manual and then increased it a bit but it's still leaking. Anybody got any ideas?
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Take it off and get decent fork springs. -
Guest
The effectiveness of those anti-dive units has always been in question.
I have one on my '82 GS1100E and I don't or can't tell that it even works.
Alot of people just bypass it and get better brakes.Comment
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koolaid_kid
Actually, the anti-dive units are suspension related, although I agree about upgrading the brakes with better pads and stainless steel lines. I disabled my anti-dive and put Progressive Suspension springs in the forks. Sonic is a top choice for standard rate springs.Comment
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Put cartridge emulators in as well and you'll have no brake dive anyway...1980 GS1000G - Sold
1978 GS1000E - Finished!
1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!
www.parasiticsanalytics.com
TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/Comment
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Guest
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bix49
I have stainless brake lines and Progressive Suspension springs. New brake pads are on order. Cartridge emulators unfortunately not in the budget right now. The work I'm doing on the front end is the result of an accident I had 3 years ago. This moron made a U-turn right, and I mean right in front of me. In addition to the forks being bent the bottom half of the anti-dive unit got crunched. I found a GS11 right lower fork tube with a good anti-dive unit bottom half on e-bay and put that together with my original top half. This is what's leaking. I have thought about just doing away with the anti-dive altogether but I remember reading, I think in this forum, a post explaining that you can't just remove and then block off the anti-dive without some negative consequences. I haven't had a chance to look for that post but I will. In the meantime I guess I'll take the anti-dive off clean it again and see if that helps.Comment
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Yes, you need a channel linking the two holes in the block off plate.
I know they are not in the budget but if you fit emulators you simply drill some additional holes in the damper rod below the lock washer & then you don't need the channel in the block-off plate. I guess you might be able to do that anyway but no guarantee it wouldn't mess with your compression damping circuit.
If you buy the $54 damper valves here (basically the same as Racetech's) I can sell you an adapter to make them fit the 37mm forks. $35.
http://www.mikesxs.net/products-19.html#products
Racetech's are $180 these days I think...1980 GS1000G - Sold
1978 GS1000E - Finished!
1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!
www.parasiticsanalytics.com
TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/Comment
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bix49
anti-dive
Great. This is just the information I needed. Thanks for the article Subid. And Salty, I'll get in touch with you as soon as I am able
bixComment
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whereiwannabe -
bix49
anti dive
Hey Salty, How do I go about getting those adaptors for the Mikesxs cartridge emulators that you mentioned? And do you know if the blanking plates are available commercially and who sells them or do I have to make them myself?
Thanks,
BixComment
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