Uh-Oh..I snapped a front wheel cap stud!

[slyone]

Stupid me! I over-torqued the front wheel nut/studs and snapped one off at the fork..wtf! I've never had success with easyouts either. Dam I wanted to go riding tomorrow and Sunday too! Suggestions? Thanks..

[Nessism]

I recommend LH drill bits. Start small and make sure you find center. Walk the bit around until the hole is centered and then move to the next larger size. If you are careful and stay centered, then work your way larger, the nub will spin out by itself before you hit threads.

Edit: now that we can see the photo it's clear that drilling is not necessary. Using heat and vice grips should be adequate.

[slyone]

I took it off and posted a pic, eveidently not flush.. but she's in there! Ya know what else, I do have air suspension but no air was inside..PO had just had the forks/seals rebuilt too?

[chuck hahn]

Heat the fork area around it with something that wont destroy the clearcoat..if there is any. They have a drop of loctite on them from the factory. Heat will soften the loctite so it will unscrew easier. Get metricv exhaust header studs as replacements. Available at any auto parts store.

[slyone]

ok Thanks, I don't have any torches.. just a pos propane cylinder for soldering...

[SqDancerLynn1]

As Nessism said LH drills, should produce enough heat to loosen the locktite

[Guest]

I took it off and posted a pic, eveidently not flush.. but she's in there! Ya know what else, I do have air suspension but no air was inside..PO had just had the forks/seals rebuilt too?

Hmmmm......when upgrading to Progressive fork springs you do not need to put any air in the forks. Not that this means you have progressive springs, could just be that the air bleed out. If you have a PVC spacer rather than an OEM metal one good chance you have progressive springs.

[slyone]

As Nessism said LH drills, should produce enough heat to loosen the locktite

now that I see it isn't broken off flush, drilling it out doesn't seem like the approach one' would take? Though it may very well break flush..geesh!

[Guest]

Ya you've got a real bugger of a problem there, been there, done that but couldn't fix that. You've got some good tips though, let us know how it works out.

[Guest]

Looking at your picture, I would just heat it up and turn it out with some vice grips

[barnbiketom]

Try to unscrew it with visegrips first. Apply even and firm pressure just don't do too much if at first if won't move. just keep even pressure on it and I think it will eventually untighten in a few seconds. go easy upping the pressure gradually, but not to that point of brakeage.. experience here. if you aren't comfortable/ feel it will break with how much it takes, then heat is next.

If so you should just heat the screw itself. the heat will transfer into the threads and soften the locktite that they used. not too much heat as to swell up the screw. no damage to finish this way.

No need to heat the aluminum lower fork leg at all. it should screw out.

[chuck hahn]

All I have is a little propane tank torch also and it all ive ever needed working on a bike.

[tkent02]

All I have is a little propane tank torch also and it all ive ever needed working on a bike.

You don't need to melt the stud, just the loctite.

[slyone]

Fixed! just went to suzuki dealer and guy had it out before I could finish my smoke! was outside so not sure on his approach but I'm happy again..

[chuck hahn]

Next time you remove or tighten the nuts, do them a little at a time and evenly from side to side..and look at the gap where the fork and caps meet. That should be as close to equal on each side as you can get it by eyeballing that gap. The caps tend to tweek and put bending pressures on the studs if you go too much unevenly.