tied it back overnight, still a little spongy. If I had to ball park it id say im in the realm of 85-90% of my braking capability. enough to feel ok on the street stopping at lights and signs but enough to worry about that 10-15% in a real oh ****! situation
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Someone a few months ago had a similar problem. I thin k it was Steve that sorted it(?) Anyway, the fix was to use a green dish scrubbie and go around the piston seals in the calipers to relieve them just ever so slightly so the pistons would move freer.
Anyone remember that thread and the original posters name???MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.Comment
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Don't use the lever to bleed the brakes. Take off the lever and use a screwdriver or whatever to push in the piston. Tiny air bubbles love to hide behind the piston in the M/C since the lever does not push the piston in the whole way.Comment
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Ask and ye shall receive (see post #62): http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=201795Comment
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ok, I had to take a step back and breathe for a while but STILL no dice. heres where Im at.
1. NEW master cylinder.
2. all NEW hoses.
3. NEW seals in caliper
4. all NEW crush washers
5. calipers and pistons dissasemled and cleaned out
6. brake lever tied back and left overnight several times
7. bled with a mighty vac
I looked at the suggestion on the last post and I dont think thats it as the pistons seat back in to the caliper after removal with the usual amount of resistance.
The only x factor Im seeing is when bleeding, the anti dive bleeders shoot what I would consider a normal amount of fluid when cracked open to bleed, while the calipers themselves sometimes will only dribble.
PLEASE!!!!! Im starting to lose my mind on this!!!!! WHAT AM I MISSING!?!?!?!?!?!?!?Comment
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oh and now after adding the new master cylinder theyre not even building up as much pressure as they where getting before!Comment
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in what order are you bleeding the calipers and anti dive units?1978 GS1085.
Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!Comment
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left anti dive, left caliper, right anti dive, right caliperComment
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Not new but I pulled em in the begainning and cleaned em and blew compressed air through them...Comment
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you say you have fitted new brake lines, are they stainless braided lines or stock, and did you replace the lines to the antidives as well?1978 GS1085.
Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!Comment
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Sounds to me like you have a air bubble trapped at the fitting off the master cyl. Try pop bleeding the master at the line where it connects to the masterComment
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the brake liners are skinnier universal lines that I bought from bike bandit (not steel braided) and I replaced the lines to the anti dives too. Im not sure what you mean by "pop bleeding" but Ive tried bleeding the master as well by pumping the break then cracking the banjo with the brake lever held in, is that what you mean?Comment
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If your brake lines are rubber and don't have steel then you can get these line clamps
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece...set-97578.html
I think autozone has them as well. Use them to crimp off the fluid flow at different places starting at the MC. The idea is that if you crimp the line between the MC and splitter and the lever is hard then your problem is not the MC. These can be used to isolate left and right calipers as well.
Do not use with SS braided hoses.
Good luck, you are not alone or the first to have very frustrating brake troubles.Comment
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That's a good idea. I've seen people use the needle-nose style vice grips with thick fuel or heater hose over the jaws for this purpose as well.Comment
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