Front Brake/ Anti-dive Spongey

[boingk]

New fork seals, new fork oil, leave the anti dive in place and remove the linkages from it so the callipers are just connected to themselves instead of the anti dive.

If you are getting or have gotten any air at all from your brakes you need to continue bleeding them. Several reservoirs per side works for me. It is also possible you need to rebuild the master cylinder.

All this is basic maintenance., at least on bikes as old as these, anyway.

- boingk

Edit: Just a though, the brake pads aren't down to the limit are they? That may compound any issues you're having.

[eil]

I pulled of the left side anti-dive unit and a sickly green fluid came out that smelled like oil. Is this normal? Is it a problem with the forks?

Green fluid?! That sounds like fork oil... I don't know how the anti-dives are engineered, and I'm not saying this is your problem, but it's possible that something's blown out in your fork. I have to leave further advice to the experts of these systems. Maybe someone nearby can lend you a hand...

Last thing I'll mention is that some people have argued that the anti-dive stuff is more trouble than its worth. I have seen threads where people have deactivated the anti-dives by machining aluminum plates to cover the ports.

[LSCCOLT]

Well I have brakes, somewhat, they are not as firm as before I started but I will see how it stops before I get too happy.

I used the single banjo bolts from the anti-dive units on the calipers and blocked off the anti-dives with solid bolts.

I now need to put new fork oil in. should I use what the Suzuki manual suggests or something thicker to compensate for the extra dive now?

Thanks

[jwhelan65]

Well I have brakes, somewhat, they are not as firm as before I started but I will see how it stops before I get too happy.

I used the single banjo bolts from the anti-dive units on the calipers and blocked off the anti-dives with solid bolts.

I now need to put new fork oil in. should I use what the Suzuki manual suggests or something thicker to compensate for the extra dive now?

Thanks

I would go thicker, typically when blocking off anti-dives and adding emulators it call for 30wt. Even without the emulators I would go heavier.

[LSCCOLT]

Can I just pull out the top bolt of the forks to refill the forks after I drain them all the way?
Thanks

[Guest]

I replace the seals, remove everything and rinse them out with brake cleaner.
Then I measure the right amount of fork oil and pour it in the top of the forks.

[LSCCOLT]

I replace the seals, remove everything and rinse them out with brake cleaner.
Then I measure the right amount of fork oil and pour it in the top of the forks.

I am hoping to just drain what's left of the oil and put new in. The book says to use 10.4 oz. it that for each fork or split between the two?

[Guest]

If you want to rid yourself the the antidive units, which many have done here, just purchase some block off plates. Brakes should firm up fine if there isn't some other problem with in the system. Oh, by the way, do you still have the rubber brake lines on yet? Changing those out to the Stainless steel lines will improve the brakes big time.

[LSCCOLT]

If you want to rid yourself the the antidive units, which many have done here, just purchase some block off plates. Brakes should firm up fine if there isn't some other problem with in the system. Oh, by the way, do you still have the rubber brake lines on yet? Changing those out to the Stainless steel lines will improve the brakes big time.

I am just capping off the anti dive units with solid bolts in place of the banjo bolts. And SS lines are in the future plans but right now I just need it ridable because my parents are getting annoyed of another project that does not move in the garage.

In order to fill the forks with oil the manual calls for 10.4 oz in each fork. I still have the forks attached to the bike can they still be drained without being vertical? there is no drain bolt that I can find.

Thanks for the help guys

[LSCCOLT]

I have poured the new fork oil and rode the bike around the block a couple times. It seems to stop and ride okay. It does dive more in during braking but that is to be expected I am going to order some SS lines and progressive springs before too long.