Anyone in the Seattle area willing to help me install the salty_monk brake mod?

[MadCapsule]

I'm pretty sure I have all the parts needed to do this.

I can't for the life of me figure out how to disassemble the new front forks to replace the seals. I've read up on the procedure here and I think I either need a bench vice (which I don't have) or just a second set of hands.

I also need help getting a couple of the pistons out of the Kawasaki brake calipers.

Since this is such a critical safety issue, I'd like to have someone with more experience to assist, rather than me experimenting with my life on the line.

I'm a broke-a$$ student at the moment, so don't have a lot of cash but I can show my appreciation in the form of beer or lunch/dinner. Or I can lend assistance with your project, if you have anything you need an extra pair of hands on.

If anyone can lend some assistance, it would be greatly appreciated!

[Big T]

Chris

Taking apart the fork tubes is easy - you just need the "tool" to hold the dampener rod, several tutorials here

a piece of threaded rod and a proper sized nut (17mm) will do the job

The calipers? you'll need air

Why are you taking the pistons out? seals for both calipers run about $60

[JTNWEVO]

I can help. I'm out in Snohomish. Have rebuilt several sets of forks and brake calipers. It's all pretty easy, typically...

[lemonshindig]

I'd be more than happy to help, but I'm going to wear my crimson while doing so.

-Matt

[Steve]

Chris

Taking apart the fork tubes is easy - you just need the "tool" to hold the dampener rod, several tutorials here

a piece of threaded rod and a proper sized nut (17mm) will do the job

If you don't have a supplier of metric all-thread rod, get some 7/16" rod from Lowe's or Home Depot.
Get four nuts to match, assemble them like this:





Some bikes (not sure if yours is included) will use 1/2" rod, which gives you 19mm nuts.

The good news is that if you get the wrong size, it's only a few dollars to get the others.
The two-foot-long all thread is only $5 or $6, the nuts are about $1.10 for a pair.
Total is under $10, even including tax.

.

[MadCapsule]

Chris

Taking apart the fork tubes is easy - you just need the "tool" to hold the dampener rod, several tutorials here

a piece of threaded rod and a proper sized nut (17mm) will do the job

The calipers? you'll need air

Why are you taking the pistons out? seals for both calipers run about $60

I was able to get two of the four pistons out with air. The other two wouldn't budge. Maybe my brother's air compressor wasn't strong enough. I'm taking the pistons out because I want to put fresh seals in. Would rather start out with seals that I know aren't dried out.

I can help. I'm out in Snohomish. Have rebuilt several sets of forks and brake calipers. It's all pretty easy, typically...

I'd be more than happy to help, but I'm going to wear my crimson while doing so.

-Matt

I'll check your locations on Google Maps and figure out which one is more practical for me to get to. I don't have a car, so I'll have to find a way to get the forks out to you and then ride my bike out.

If you don't have a supplier of metric all-thread rod, get some 7/16" rod from Lowe's or Home Depot.
Get four nuts to match, assemble them like this:





Some bikes (not sure if yours is included) will use 1/2" rod, which gives you 19mm nuts.

The good news is that if you get the wrong size, it's only a few dollars to get the others.
The two-foot-long all thread is only $5 or $6, the nuts are about $1.10 for a pair.
Total is under $10, even including tax.

.

So there's a corresponding hex that the tool drops into, I take it?

[bigskybldr]

On my stock '77 gs750 there was no hex inside my tube so I couldn't use the threaded rod w/ nuts on the end. I left the tube assembled so there would be tension from the spring and used a impact gun to remove the bottom nut. I didn't need a vice, just spun it with the gun.

[Big T]

Some people use a broom handle to jam the top of the dampener rod

On the calipers, slide the popped out pistion (lubed with silicone or brake fluid) back in half way and hold it in place with a C clamp

Apply air and the other piston should pop out

[MadCapsule]

It looks like it will be easier for me to get out to jtnwevo than lemonshindig.

I don't have access to an air compressor, unless wevo has one. The one I used previously was my brother's, which was when I still lived in Chicago.

bigsky - Thanks for the tip. Sounds like a good place to start and then determine if I need to use a broom handle.

[lemonshindig]

It looks like it will be easier for me to get out to jtnwevo than lemonshindig.

I don't have access to an air compressor, unless wevo has one. The one I used previously was my brother's, which was when I still lived in Chicago.

bigsky - Thanks for the tip. Sounds like a good place to start and then determine if I need to use a broom handle.

I have a Makita cordless impact, if it would help.

And a cousin up in Lynnwood with a gigantic, fully equipped shop. That shop has saved me a few times now. I want a shop

[MadCapsule]

I have a Makita cordless impact, if it would help.

And a cousin up in Lynnwood with a gigantic, fully equipped shop. That shop has saved me a few times now. I want a shop

You and me both, brother. I don't even have a garage!

If it turns out I need your impact or your cousin's shop (!), I'll certainly let you know.

Thanks for the offer!

[Guest]

On my stock '77 gs750 there was no hex inside my tube so I couldn't use the threaded rod w/ nuts on the end. I left the tube assembled so there would be tension from the spring and used a impact gun to remove the bottom nut. I didn't need a vice, just spun it with the gun.

You use a tampered point for the inside of your tube.